Door Locks going crazy
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Door Locks going crazy
Okay, just today, my car started to run the door locks up and down in a rapid/rabid motion when I press the key to unlock the car.
When I unlock, the car does the same thing. Sometimes it will open, most often, not.
Any ideas? I hate electrical problems. I fear no bolt, but I HATE electrical gremlins.
Now that Phil has his M3, I'm thinking of trading up. Maybe time to go to the dealer. I actually called Vadim, not too long ago, about the E55, but man, that is just a stretch right now.
E
When I unlock, the car does the same thing. Sometimes it will open, most often, not.
Any ideas? I hate electrical problems. I fear no bolt, but I HATE electrical gremlins.
Now that Phil has his M3, I'm thinking of trading up. Maybe time to go to the dealer. I actually called Vadim, not too long ago, about the E55, but man, that is just a stretch right now.
E
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,692
Likes: 58
From: So Cal.
2019 GT3 RS, 2017 M3 30 Jahre
Okay, just today, my car started to run the door locks up and down in a rapid/rabid motion when I press the key to unlock the car.
When I unlock, the car does the same thing. Sometimes it will open, most often, not.
Any ideas? I hate electrical problems. I fear no bolt, but I HATE electrical gremlins.
Now that Phil has his M3, I'm thinking of trading up. Maybe time to go to the dealer. I actually called Vadim, not too long ago, about the E55, but man, that is just a stretch right now.
E
When I unlock, the car does the same thing. Sometimes it will open, most often, not.
Any ideas? I hate electrical problems. I fear no bolt, but I HATE electrical gremlins.
Now that Phil has his M3, I'm thinking of trading up. Maybe time to go to the dealer. I actually called Vadim, not too long ago, about the E55, but man, that is just a stretch right now.
E
thanks for including me in the thread! Vadim is good, he'll hook it up, I almost got an SLK55 from him but the M3 made more sense for me... good luck!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,939
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
are you describing an anomaly in which the door lock pins pogo up and down,
spordically, irrhytmically....and may occur during driving? any irregularities
with int/ext lights or alarm?
r-
Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 1
the problem is usually one of two things.
1. the wiring to the power locks has a short in it and is grounding against other wiring or the body. The most common place tends to be the wiring to the trunk lock. Generally the wiring runs from the body to the trunk lid, through or along the trunk hing. The wiring undergoes a lot of movement and bending, often leading to wornout wire insulation. The exposed wires then touch other wires, such as the ones for the rear lights or ground out on the metal surface. check the wiring for wear, especially in the areas where the wire bends. you may need to open up the plastic tube/coating that covers all the trunk wiring, but you can easily use black electrical tape to seal it back up.
2. the second most common problem is a lock solenoid that fails.
1. the wiring to the power locks has a short in it and is grounding against other wiring or the body. The most common place tends to be the wiring to the trunk lock. Generally the wiring runs from the body to the trunk lid, through or along the trunk hing. The wiring undergoes a lot of movement and bending, often leading to wornout wire insulation. The exposed wires then touch other wires, such as the ones for the rear lights or ground out on the metal surface. check the wiring for wear, especially in the areas where the wire bends. you may need to open up the plastic tube/coating that covers all the trunk wiring, but you can easily use black electrical tape to seal it back up.
2. the second most common problem is a lock solenoid that fails.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Excellent, these are great answers. Today has been frustrating. I takes multiple attempts to unlock the car, and then when I open the car, the door goes to the lock position, and therefore won't close. I spent 10 minutes outside of the grocery store trying to close my car door. Yeah, I was attracting all the wrong attention when my door would go <BANG>, even though I was gently closing it.
Okay, the problem of the door pins pogoing only happens when I attempt to lock or unlock the door. The pins are not fully actuating. This keeps the door from unlocking, or in the reverse, from locking.
When I start moving the car, it does it again when I get over 5 miles an hour. But that is likely because the car is programmed to lock over a certain speed.
Gino, your comments could be the clue. The car was hit in the rear hatch about two years ago, so maybe a wire has chafed.
I have no problem pulling it all apart, but the problem then becomes knowing which wires to look for. I guess I can look at them all.
I'll let you know.
Thanks,
E
Okay, the problem of the door pins pogoing only happens when I attempt to lock or unlock the door. The pins are not fully actuating. This keeps the door from unlocking, or in the reverse, from locking.
When I start moving the car, it does it again when I get over 5 miles an hour. But that is likely because the car is programmed to lock over a certain speed.
Gino, your comments could be the clue. The car was hit in the rear hatch about two years ago, so maybe a wire has chafed.
I have no problem pulling it all apart, but the problem then becomes knowing which wires to look for. I guess I can look at them all.
I'll let you know.
Thanks,
E
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Super Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 761
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From: Oregon
2005 C55, 1988 260E, 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
Thats got to be in the rear of the car by the SAM in the trunk, not to hard to get to. The other problem I have heard and expierenced is when something shifts in the trunk while driving and hits the left side of the trunk, the locks unlock. That makes me thing it's got to be right there by the SAM.
Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver, BC
2002 C240
I had the same thing with the door lock (02 C240) happen to me a few months back. Hit the remote to lock or unlock the doors, and the door lock would bounce up and down 3 or 4 times. Sometimes it wouldn’t lock automatically, would have to use the manual key sometimes.
I ended up purchasing a new auto lock assembly (made by Hella, approx. $175 cdn.) from the dealer and installed it myself. I asked one of the mechanics how long it would take and how difficult to change. You need to have some mechanical knowledge and it will take somewhere between 2-3 hours (took me a little longer). You also need to drill out some pop rivets that hold the airbag and the window slider mechanism to make the job a bit easier. The lock mechanism is fairly tight to remove and re-install. The pop rivets will have to be replaced when the door latch mechanism is in place. MB will also sell you the pop rivets. I’ll have to admit, it was a bit fustrating at times to shoe horn that thing in and line it up. It’s done and it works great!
Someone mentioned to pull up the rubber boot that slides over the door pull rod and to put some lube on the rod. You may want to try this out first. Just remove the door panel and you will see the rubber boot. Nothing to lose by trying this first.
I ended up purchasing a new auto lock assembly (made by Hella, approx. $175 cdn.) from the dealer and installed it myself. I asked one of the mechanics how long it would take and how difficult to change. You need to have some mechanical knowledge and it will take somewhere between 2-3 hours (took me a little longer). You also need to drill out some pop rivets that hold the airbag and the window slider mechanism to make the job a bit easier. The lock mechanism is fairly tight to remove and re-install. The pop rivets will have to be replaced when the door latch mechanism is in place. MB will also sell you the pop rivets. I’ll have to admit, it was a bit fustrating at times to shoe horn that thing in and line it up. It’s done and it works great!
Someone mentioned to pull up the rubber boot that slides over the door pull rod and to put some lube on the rod. You may want to try this out first. Just remove the door panel and you will see the rubber boot. Nothing to lose by trying this first.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I had the same thing with the door lock (02 C240) happen to me a few months back. Hit the remote to lock or unlock the doors, and the door lock would bounce up and down 3 or 4 times. Sometimes it wouldn’t lock automatically, would have to use the manual key sometimes.
I ended up purchasing a new auto lock assembly (made by Hella, approx. $175 cdn.) from the dealer and installed it myself. I asked one of the mechanics how long it would take and how difficult to change. You need to have some mechanical knowledge and it will take somewhere between 2-3 hours (took me a little longer). You also need to drill out some pop rivets that hold the airbag and the window slider mechanism to make the job a bit easier. The lock mechanism is fairly tight to remove and re-install. The pop rivets will have to be replaced when the door latch mechanism is in place. MB will also sell you the pop rivets. I’ll have to admit, it was a bit fustrating at times to shoe horn that thing in and line it up. It’s done and it works great!
Someone mentioned to pull up the rubber boot that slides over the door pull rod and to put some lube on the rod. You may want to try this out first. Just remove the door panel and you will see the rubber boot. Nothing to lose by trying this first.
I ended up purchasing a new auto lock assembly (made by Hella, approx. $175 cdn.) from the dealer and installed it myself. I asked one of the mechanics how long it would take and how difficult to change. You need to have some mechanical knowledge and it will take somewhere between 2-3 hours (took me a little longer). You also need to drill out some pop rivets that hold the airbag and the window slider mechanism to make the job a bit easier. The lock mechanism is fairly tight to remove and re-install. The pop rivets will have to be replaced when the door latch mechanism is in place. MB will also sell you the pop rivets. I’ll have to admit, it was a bit fustrating at times to shoe horn that thing in and line it up. It’s done and it works great!
Someone mentioned to pull up the rubber boot that slides over the door pull rod and to put some lube on the rod. You may want to try this out first. Just remove the door panel and you will see the rubber boot. Nothing to lose by trying this first.
I was the one who mentioned lubing the rubber boot. I'm 99.9% positive this will fix your issue. It is a known problem.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
What type of lube
Thanks for the input. Celebrating my girls bday tonight. So, no valeting at the restaurant. This has been really embarassing. Sunday, I'll have time to lube the rod. What type of lube do you recommend?
This also makes sense because only the drivers side is doing this. Passenger does pogo, but cleanly will open and lock.
I made a dealer apt on Monday, so If I can fix this, I could save money.
E
This also makes sense because only the drivers side is doing this. Passenger does pogo, but cleanly will open and lock.
I made a dealer apt on Monday, so If I can fix this, I could save money.
E
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Thanks for the input. Celebrating my girls bday tonight. So, no valeting at the restaurant. This has been really embarassing. Sunday, I'll have time to lube the rod. What type of lube do you recommend?
This also makes sense because only the drivers side is doing this. Passenger does pogo, but cleanly will open and lock.
I made a dealer apt on Monday, so If I can fix this, I could save money.
E
This also makes sense because only the drivers side is doing this. Passenger does pogo, but cleanly will open and lock.
I made a dealer apt on Monday, so If I can fix this, I could save money.
E
Not sure about the type of lube...haha. Dealer did mine. As is your case, mine was the same way. Only the drivers side was affected....very easy fix though. Covered under warranty.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 447
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when i was installing my new grab handle tonight, i tried to unlock the doors via the button on the dash, well the lock was stuck under the door plastic, so it jammed up the lock. Obviously it didn't unlock, but it also made a beep. If your locks are jammed, it will beep when you try to use them.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 22,051
Likes: 972
From: MBworld
bone stock E55 AMG
i'm just out of standard warranty and noticed the locking problem on driver's door. 
(tho i have extended warranty)... so what's the solution? lube or new locking assembly???
(tho i have extended warranty)... so what's the solution? lube or new locking assembly???
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 809
Likes: 74
From: Dallas, TX
2008 E63 wagon (1 of 62)
I would take off the door panel and inspect the rubber boot around the door lock rod. If it is pushed down, pull it up and spray some wd-40 or some sort of lubricating spray on the inside of the boot and down the lock rod where it contacts the boot. If this does not fix the problem then you would need to replace the lock assembly which should be covered under your extended warranty.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Hills, SoCal
'03 C240 (the Mrs daily commute)
Heres what the invoice stated.
Concern: Driver side lock inop., door lock is bouncing up and down.
Cause: Door lock actuator
Correction: Replace left front latch assembly
Part number: MBN 203 720 01 35
Description: Lock ($50)
After the new part is installed, the Tech will then initiate a series of test program; short test, locking actuator, checks central locking function, etc., etc.
Make an apointment to your local stealership and have 'em address the issue... free of charge!
Hope this helps, goodluck!
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 22,051
Likes: 972
From: MBworld
bone stock E55 AMG
thx for the info...
i will make appt this week!
i will make appt this week!
Yup mj, this happened also to the Mrs car right before the factory warranty had expired... it's about 2.5 hours of labor and a total charge of almost $300.
Heres what the invoice stated.
Concern: Driver side lock inop., door lock is bouncing up and down.
Cause: Door lock actuator
Correction: Replace left front latch assembly
Part number: MBN 203 720 01 35
Description: Lock ($50)
After the new part is installed, the Tech will then initiate a series of test program; short test, locking actuator, checks central locking function, etc., etc.
Make an apointment to your local stealership and have 'em address the issue... free of charge!
Hope this helps, goodluck!
Heres what the invoice stated.
Concern: Driver side lock inop., door lock is bouncing up and down.
Cause: Door lock actuator
Correction: Replace left front latch assembly
Part number: MBN 203 720 01 35
Description: Lock ($50)
After the new part is installed, the Tech will then initiate a series of test program; short test, locking actuator, checks central locking function, etc., etc.
Make an apointment to your local stealership and have 'em address the issue... free of charge!
Hope this helps, goodluck!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,172
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From: CA
Mercedes
Just wondering if this problem will be covered under extended warranty?? I am guessing yes it will cos this fall into Electronic issue, anyone can confirm?
MJ, please let us know how it turns out after you got it fix.
MJ, please let us know how it turns out after you got it fix.
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,684
Likes: 12
From: West Los Angeles
Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
Yup mj, this happened also to the Mrs car right before the factory warranty had expired... it's about 2.5 hours of labor and a total charge of almost $300.
Heres what the invoice stated.
Concern: Driver side lock inop., door lock is bouncing up and down.
Cause: Door lock actuator
Correction: Replace left front latch assembly
Part number: MBN 203 720 01 35
Description: Lock ($50)
After the new part is installed, the Tech will then initiate a series of test program; short test, locking actuator, checks central locking function, etc., etc.
Make an apointment to your local stealership and have 'em address the issue... free of charge!
Hope this helps, goodluck!
Heres what the invoice stated.
Concern: Driver side lock inop., door lock is bouncing up and down.
Cause: Door lock actuator
Correction: Replace left front latch assembly
Part number: MBN 203 720 01 35
Description: Lock ($50)
After the new part is installed, the Tech will then initiate a series of test program; short test, locking actuator, checks central locking function, etc., etc.
Make an apointment to your local stealership and have 'em address the issue... free of charge!
Hope this helps, goodluck!
Almost a Member!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I got the same problem!!!
I have the same problem with my 2002 C230K. Car is out of the original warranty and under the 48 months premium extended warranty. Took it to the dealer today (Sugar Land, Texas) and the tech advisor said it is NOT under warranty. He claims it is not the actuator but it's a short of the lock mechanism, therefore not under warranty. I have never changed anything from the door. He wants $400+ for the job.
Will someone please confirm if it is under warranty or not? My warranty states "if a part is not listed, it is not covered ... 16. Central Locking System: Actuator/element, pneumatic check valve, switches and linkages...."
Will someone please confirm if it is under warranty or not? My warranty states "if a part is not listed, it is not covered ... 16. Central Locking System: Actuator/element, pneumatic check valve, switches and linkages...."
