yeuchau's C320 mod thread (New Mod 9/4/09 post #387)
#327
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Don't listen to them yeuchau . Your car in your signature is correct. Nose down - tail up - That is correct for proper handling & a CD of 0.27. Stops air from getting under the car and forming a pressure wedge which will make it float around at high speed. You must drop the front & rear by the same amount to keep the car's attitude correct. FrankW & splinter have their cars correct. 90% of the cars on this forum have their tails too low. Might look nice but crap for handling/road holding.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 02-01-2009 at 07:56 AM.
#328
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2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe, 2003 E320, 2003 Chevy Corvette Z06
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Don't listen to them yeuchau . Your car in your signature is correct. Nose down - tail up - That is correct for proper handling & a CD of 0.27. Stops air from getting under the car and forming a pressure wedge which will make it float around at high speed. You must drop the front & rear by the same amount to keep the car's attitude correct. FrankW & splinter have their cars correct. 90% of the cars on this forum have their tails too low. Might look nice but crap for handling/road holding.
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#329
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I'm saying don't drop the tail. If he want's to drop the nose further he can like splinter's car which is more of a track set up. The car must be nose down at all times even under acceleration. That way it's aerodynamically correct for both acceleration & handling. A lot of the spring kits that are not adjustable (apart from pads) that people fit on the forum drop the back too far. Some are almost nose up like a damn '65 Mustang POS.
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2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe, 2003 E320, 2003 Chevy Corvette Z06
I'm saying don't drop the tail. If he want's to drop the nose further he can like splinter's car which is more of a track set up. The car must be nose down at all times even under acceleration. That way it's aerodynamically correct for both acceleration & handling. A lot of the spring kits that are not adjustable (apart from pads) that people fit on the forum drop the back too far. Some are almost nose up like a damn '65 Mustang POS.
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#331
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01' C32o
glyn,
like you said, most of the springs that work on our car usually drop the rear more, or at least look like it does. i think it's just because of the larger fender/corcle thingy that gives an optical illusion that some cars look higher up front. i mean, there has to be room for the fronts to move left and right, or else it would be rubbing the fender to hell. don't know if i made sense at all though haha
like you said, most of the springs that work on our car usually drop the rear more, or at least look like it does. i think it's just because of the larger fender/corcle thingy that gives an optical illusion that some cars look higher up front. i mean, there has to be room for the fronts to move left and right, or else it would be rubbing the fender to hell. don't know if i made sense at all though haha
#332
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I understand Mu - and the fender liner in front also limits how far you can drop.
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
haven't get a chance to get any pics up yet, but my car is in the dealer now.![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
I don't know what's wrong with, maybe someone can tell me.
So, yesterday after I exit the highway, all the sudden my car loses all the power, pressing down the gas won't give me that constant acceleration sound, rather it gave me that continuous popping sound and the car wouldn't go anyway. The check engine light is also on.![action](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/action1.gif)
So, I had to pull over the car and restart the car few times, and wait like 5 - 10 mines and still doing the same thing. and I waited another 20 minutes and start again, it started fine, so I hurry and drove home (I was like 30 miles away from home, luckily I got home without any problem). So, I took the car to dealer this morning, and car dives fine. No idea what is going on.
Anyone has anyidea of what that could be, note that this never happen before, and it happened after the audio shop install the Avic F700bt, which shouldn't have anything to do with it??![Confused](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
It sounds to me that, I might have to change the fuel pump, similar problem happen to my previous bimmer before, but the bimmer died, and I had to tow it to dealer to fix it. Which is certainly not the case here. Maybe it's a sign to tell me to change the fuel pump??
Any comments??
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
I don't know what's wrong with, maybe someone can tell me.
So, yesterday after I exit the highway, all the sudden my car loses all the power, pressing down the gas won't give me that constant acceleration sound, rather it gave me that continuous popping sound and the car wouldn't go anyway. The check engine light is also on.
![action](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/action1.gif)
So, I had to pull over the car and restart the car few times, and wait like 5 - 10 mines and still doing the same thing. and I waited another 20 minutes and start again, it started fine, so I hurry and drove home (I was like 30 miles away from home, luckily I got home without any problem). So, I took the car to dealer this morning, and car dives fine. No idea what is going on.
Anyone has anyidea of what that could be, note that this never happen before, and it happened after the audio shop install the Avic F700bt, which shouldn't have anything to do with it??
![Confused](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
It sounds to me that, I might have to change the fuel pump, similar problem happen to my previous bimmer before, but the bimmer died, and I had to tow it to dealer to fix it. Which is certainly not the case here. Maybe it's a sign to tell me to change the fuel pump??
Any comments??
#334
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yeuchau - It can be a whole host of things, CPS, MAF, Fuel line pressure too low - pump or blocked filter, coil packs, wires etc.. It obviously settled down after you rebooted everything & I presume the engine temperature was normal? Before we all start guessing you need to pull codes from the car & let us know what it shows. The MAF is easy to check. Just unplug it & run on a default map. I think it went into limp mode. Buy or borrow an OBDII scanner. Autozone will read codes free.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 02-02-2009 at 03:25 PM.
#337
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Frank - When your TPS failed - was the problem intermittent for a while. I'm trying to make sense of a friends BMW Z3. You can be running down the highway and everything seems fine until you try & accelerate and it does nothing - slight stutter but won't accelerate further. At other times it's fine. The damn vehicle is not OBDII compliant so we have a proprietary BMW scanner on the way. The dealer has no clue what's wrong & Norman refuses to take the car back to them.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 02-02-2009 at 06:18 PM.
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white and whiter
Frank - When your TPS failed - was the problem intermittent for a while. I'm trying to make sense of a friends BMW Z3. You can be running down the highway and everything seems fine until you try & accelerate and it does nothing - slight stutter but won't accelerate further. At other times it's fine. The damn vehicle is not OBDII compliant so we have a proprietary BMW scanner on the way. The dealer has no clue what's wrong & Norman refuses to take the car back to them.
#339
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Hmmm - I'm convinced this BM problem is TPS - problem is a new one runs at US$600 & has to come from Germany so I don't want to make a mistake.
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
also, does the power comes and goes during that period of time say like 20seconds.
One more thing, it doesn't give me jerky gear shift, in fact, I don't think it's shifting, since the car was going so damn slow.
How much did it run you to fix that??
Thanks
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white and whiter
didn't cost me a thing. it was under extended warranty. only cost me a month without the car while they figure things out. tps and tcu happened at the same time for me.
if it's intermittent for your car you can try replacing the throttle pedal. There's a sensor on the pedal. parts is about $100 or so. give that a try first after you pulled the codes.
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
ok, so the dealer code me back and say it didn't read out anything, so they had no way to check the car.
They said they gonna drive my car for like 20-30 miles and see if they can reproduce that.
They said they gonna drive my car for like 20-30 miles and see if they can reproduce that.
#344
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Something might just have triggered limp mode & a restart rebooted everything. Happened to me once 30,000 Km ago & never again - ECU brain fade! - Or as Mu says - "a brain fart"
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
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#346
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Yes - keep an eye on that and make sure they took power from the correct place provided by Benz.
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
ok, I got the car back.
Dealer said that there was a engine misfire, but they were not able to reproduce the problem, so no way for them to fix it.
They also clear the code and dorve my car for like 40+ miles without any problem.
Dealer said that there was a engine misfire, but they were not able to reproduce the problem, so no way for them to fix it.
They also clear the code and dorve my car for like 40+ miles without any problem.
#348
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Yeuchau - just drive it & watch it. Misfire codes most likely source are coilpacks, wires & plugs. If your fuel line pressure was down you would get a fuel trim code which you did not.
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60