Rear seat armrest (pic)
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From: Debary FL
2006 C230
Rear seat armrest (pic)
For my new subs I want to get more air flow into the cabin from the trunk. It will make it seem much louder to me if I was to cut the plastic out behind the middle armrest in the rear seat. Does anyone know if this is possible or if there is any electrical wires or like a metal plate of reinforcement behind it?
Sorry for the ghetto pic lolol
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1187176349
Sorry for the ghetto pic lolol
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1187176349
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From: NJ
'08 E550 4Matic
No need to cut it. You can just remove it. What you need to do is remove the entire seat, remove the carpeting from the back of it and you will see 4 screws that hold the plastic piece in.
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From: NJ
'08 E550 4Matic
I posted a pic somewhere on here, but I can find it for the life of me.
You need to remove the lower portion first.
* there are 4 nuts that hold it in place
Once that is out of the way you will need to remove all the nuts and bolts that hold the back rest in place.
Once they are all removed you will have to go into the trunk and remove two plastic covers near the top of the trunk. This will expose a spring mechanism. Insert a screwdriver and move the latch. Then go back in the car and pull the seat out.
You need to remove the lower portion first.
* there are 4 nuts that hold it in place
Once that is out of the way you will need to remove all the nuts and bolts that hold the back rest in place.
Once they are all removed you will have to go into the trunk and remove two plastic covers near the top of the trunk. This will expose a spring mechanism. Insert a screwdriver and move the latch. Then go back in the car and pull the seat out.
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From: NJ
'08 E550 4Matic
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From: STL
W203 C230SS
If I remember correctly- there's also some sort of small tube on the drivers side of the seatback that needs to be disconnected. It almost looks like an airline- but I have no idea what it is or where it goes. I had to give it an attitude adjustment with a little flat screw driver to get it to come apart. All is well now though.
Good tip on taking the cover off rather than cutting it. I am in the process of getting the car back together and I have been planning on making the pass through functional- just hadn't decided how just yet.
Good tip on taking the cover off rather than cutting it. I am in the process of getting the car back together and I have been planning on making the pass through functional- just hadn't decided how just yet.
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Thread Starter
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From: Debary FL
2006 C230
Good idea I might have to run larger than average power wire due to the 2k watt RMS amp im going to be running...
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Manchester, England.
CL203, W211
Hmmz, this thread just got me wondering... Would it be possible to install an armrest in the Coupe? Would the SS's seat with the armrest fit in place of the Coupes rear seat without the A/R... I doubt it but I wonder if anyone could shed some light...
that would be uber bonus
that would be uber bonus
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From: STL
W203 C230SS
be sure to sound deaden the trunk- if you don't, it's going to rattle like mad. there's also two vents in the trunk, on the bottom (you'll see them when you get the carpet out)- wedge a sock or something in there to hold the flap open on each of them or else those will make noise too.
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From: STL
W203 C230SS
Ford Focus daily driver:
Rainbow Audio Profi-Kick front stage (6.5" and tweet)
Aura Audio Force12 substage (single 12")
DLS amps
Benz
JBL's flagship GTi front stage (6.5" and tweet) and substage (single 12")
A/D/S P840 amp for front stage and rear fill (when turned on)
Arc Audio 1200.1 amp for the sub
Both setups have sealed and deadened doors, midbass' are mounted on clay and mdf baffles with deflex pads behind the speakers, sealed enclosure for the sub.
Rainbow Audio Profi-Kick front stage (6.5" and tweet)
Aura Audio Force12 substage (single 12")
DLS amps
Benz
JBL's flagship GTi front stage (6.5" and tweet) and substage (single 12")
A/D/S P840 amp for front stage and rear fill (when turned on)
Arc Audio 1200.1 amp for the sub
Both setups have sealed and deadened doors, midbass' are mounted on clay and mdf baffles with deflex pads behind the speakers, sealed enclosure for the sub.
Thread Starter
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From: Debary FL
2006 C230
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From: STL
W203 C230SS
I know the guy you are talking about. His C is white or silver and he's from somewhere out of the states- can't remember where though. He had a custom install done using plexi or lexan- I can't remember.
The Aura Force in my Focus receives around 300 watts- nothing too much. The JBL sub sees about 900 watts from a 3ohm load on the Arc. The Aura gets plenty loud for me- but it's a SQ driver- it's not meant to be loud- just meant to be exact. The JBL is an amazing subwoofer. It has the ability to get very loud and can take anything you give it- but it is very accurate and musical all at the same time.
When I first built my Focus system- I was 18 (in 2000)- I bought the crap from the local chain store- more or less was only concerned with being loud and the fact you could hear me a mile away. Then I went to my first SQ competition and I was hooked. That was also when I was introduced to a single sub setup- and I've never looked back since.
Also as far as TC goes- I think you'll be happy. I installed a single DB-500 12" in my girlfriends car on a Zed built amp. It's pretty nice- especially considering the price. It's pretty loud as well as fairly accurate.
The Aura Force in my Focus receives around 300 watts- nothing too much. The JBL sub sees about 900 watts from a 3ohm load on the Arc. The Aura gets plenty loud for me- but it's a SQ driver- it's not meant to be loud- just meant to be exact. The JBL is an amazing subwoofer. It has the ability to get very loud and can take anything you give it- but it is very accurate and musical all at the same time.
When I first built my Focus system- I was 18 (in 2000)- I bought the crap from the local chain store- more or less was only concerned with being loud and the fact you could hear me a mile away. Then I went to my first SQ competition and I was hooked. That was also when I was introduced to a single sub setup- and I've never looked back since.
Also as far as TC goes- I think you'll be happy. I installed a single DB-500 12" in my girlfriends car on a Zed built amp. It's pretty nice- especially considering the price. It's pretty loud as well as fairly accurate.
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
2,000 watts, Root Mean Square???????
The Beatles played Shea Stadium using Vox 200 watt amps.
Multiplex theaters average 400 watts per screen.
At just 50 watts, the sound will be so loud you'll get out of the car.
Ask your salesman how many amps the amplifier draws. Multiply that number by 12 (battery voltage) and that is the maximum watts. That needs to be reduced a bit because no amp is 100% efficient. A further reduction is needed for wire length, and the efficiency of the loud speakers.
Removing the panel is a good idea. Some cars have a door there for a ski bag to pass through.
Last edited by Moviela; Aug 17, 2007 at 12:58 AM.
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From: STL
W203 C230SS
I was going to ask the same thing. I was curious as to what the amp rating was on the fuses. Most of the lower to mid level amp manufacturers seem to pull their numbers out of thin air. A single 40amp fuse and they are claiming 6k watts or something goofy. Not saying this is the case here, but I kinda doubt for that price, I don't think you will ever see that much power from that amp.
Also what's the VC configuration on the subs- S4 ohm or D4 ohm?
Also what's the VC configuration on the subs- S4 ohm or D4 ohm?
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From: Debary FL
2006 C230
The subs are D4 so i can wire them to 1 ohm and the amp is 1 ohm stable. I have read reviews about this amp saying that it is great and is very accurate to what the manufacturer says it can do. The only reason im getting it so cheap is because i know someone special 
