After a second fill up (second one after putting in the cleaner for two tanks), it's back. Next comes changing out the fuel filter and seeing how that goes.

 

I suppose if the fuel additive made a difference then it is definately a fuel problem. I have started using high octane fuel "Premium Unleaded" and the car does drive better now (still the first fillup/early days for a conclusive result) but theres still a slight (not as abvious) stutter on rare occassions. I'm hoping that the next time I fill up and future fillups from there on will continue to reduce the occurances.

Please let me know if the fuel filter makes a difference. I will be taking my can in for a service in about 3mths so I will have my fuel filter replaced too if it turns out to be the culprit.

I'm not sure what the difference between service "A" and service "B" is but the next service my Merc is due for is a type "A" what's the next service your car is due in for "A" or "B"?

Cheers

 

Sounds like one parameter is right on the edge if cleaner worked for a while. Presume you used Techron? Go and create merry hell with the dealer to sort it out. These cars should not do that. Make them reload all the engine maps if need be.

 

You should ONLY use Premium unleaded. It's not a Holden - they are not fuel fussy apart from some HSV models

 

LOL! It's definately not a Holden. I drive a Holden Omega (work Car) current year and although it's only done 7,000K, it feels like it's done 207,000K compared to my C200 LOL.

Thanks for your help guys I appreciate it. I'll report my findings after my second fillup with premium unleaded.

Cheers

 

Hey guys, I'm no expert but Wikipedia defines Techron below:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techron

The second paragraph is interesting where it says:

"Both Volvo and Mercedes-Benz have issued factory service bulletins advising the use of concentrated Chevron Techron in repair procedures for vehicles with certain mechanical problems."

Is anyone aware of such service bulletins?

 

I am but I've just retired from Chevron after 37 years. - don't have copies of the bulletins unfortunately. Drove a Holden Berlina 3.8 V6 for 5 years when based in Sydney with Caltex/Chevron

 

After years of swearing by RXP,I've started using the Techron additive this year & all I can say is, "LOOOVE THE STUFF"! Wont use anything else ever, until maybe when I get to 250,000miles & put some Lucas in there! Truly killer stuff!

 

How often do you use Techron for your cars stuttering problem?
Is it every second fill?
Wouldn't it be a cheaper option to just fill up with high octane fuel instead of using additives?

 

Hey jedcred, I came across this DIY for changing the fuel filter and thought I'd share it with you:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/265813-diy-fuel-filter-replacement.html
I'd like to say it looks easy but things are not always as they seem. Goodluck if you choose to go ahead with it.
Cheers

 

The octane rating of the fuel should have nothing to do with the stuttering. Lower octane than required will cause the vehicles engine to ping, detonate, auto ignite depending on which terminology you use. The knock sensor picks this up & retards the timing so you spend half your life running with retarded timing with loss of power and poor fuel consumption.

If Techron helps then, something in the fuel system/inlet system is getting fouled and the Techron is removing the deposit.

Under normal circumstances if you use Techron dosed premium gas from the pump this should never occur. If it does it's likely that the vehicle is running in less than optimum conditions such as a lot of stop start cold running etc. In these conditions you might have to dose with Techron Concentrate maybe 2 tankfuls per year, preferably one after the other. If this is not the case then something is wrong.

 

WOW! you do know a awful lot
I didn't realise short trips can impact on performance. The majority of my driving is about 3K trips two times weekdays and 15K - 30Ks per trip on weekends.

My car is due for a service in 2500Ks. If I fillup with Techron Concentrate will it impact on the sevice? I don't want any residual Techron to affect the error codes returned.

Thanks in advance

 

No I don't know an awful lot - I know a lot about petroleum issues because I come from the industry. There are other things I know bugger all about and the good folk on this forum are most helpful. We all help one another where our strengths lie.

Short trips are bad news because the engine operates outside fully warmed up, optimal, conditions for much of the time. The plugs operate outside the self cleaning range etc. etc. Modern electronics & FI have spoilt us because the vehicle runs well from ice cold even though the combustion might not be perfect. Remember all the farting around with cars with manual chokes!!! On a dynamometer I can build injector deposits that are sufficient to effect performance in under an hour. Techron cleans this off.

Within limits the vehicle will store codes until cleared at the service. If the Techron stops the problem then you should not generate any more codes but the older history will still be there for download as long as no one clears them. You can use the Techron before your service. The old codes will remain recorded. Just tell the service advisor what you have done.

 

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the knock sensor.

 

Hi Calboy, Thank you for your input, can you please tell me what a knock snsor is and how much it cost you to replace it?
Many Thanks

 

I've been having the exact same problem, started about a week ago on my 2003 C230 coupe (automatic, 82k mi).

Was driving along just fine, put it in R to back into a parking spot and there was a very jerky hesitation before engaging, then felt like the car was pulsing when I gently hit the gas.

Since then I've experienced the same thing while driving, almost always while accelerating uphill in 3-5th. (but not that i've noticed in 1 & 2nd). Its like a jerky shudder like its resisting going faster. I've experienced it from ~25 ->80mph.

I flushed the tranny fluid about 4 months ago and haven't had any issues till last week. I'm ordering the dipstick to make sure it is at the right level (MB p/n 140 589 15 21 00 )
The spark plugs, oil & filter, fuel filter were all done about 4 months ago as well.

I'll be doing the fuel additive and ECU/throttle reset to see if it helps.

 

I'll give that a shot too. One change at a time though; would be nice to know exactly what the problem is. I've yet to have time to swap out the fuel filter, so I may try this first as well.

Thanks for the input.

 

Are you getting any codes thrown up?

 

Not that the car has told me about (No Check engine or error on the LCD)
I don't have a OBDC reader on hand

 

So.. too follow up on my last post. My car is now at MB of Devon and needs a new engine

I did fill up with gas Friday night (premium Wawa, same I've used for the last 50k miles) and added the Techron fuel additive.
Ran fine all weekend, did a whole bunch of errands and the hesitation issue seemed to be getting better.
Parked Sunday night after a day of running around xmas shopping. Came out Monday morning for work and car wouldn't start. Gave it 1 try and it sounded very much like the engine wasn't getting fuel, just cranking. Very possible the fuel line froze, it was very cold overnight.
Took the key out, put it back in to check oil level, tried again, same thing. Went up to my appt to put my motorcycle gear on (had to get to work!) and on my way back out I tried one last time, same thing.

Came home around 3pm because it was now much warmer. Tried the key and it started right up on the first try, but sounded like hell. Sounded like a really bad cylinder misfire, heavy knocking.
Turned it off, popped the hood, checked the fluids, cables etc, tried again. Same thing. Engine started right up but sounded rough. I let it run thinking maybe bad gas or something needed to run through. Car warmed up, still sounded bad. Almost sounded like an old diesel Jetta
I shut it off, pulled the engine cover off, pulled each plug and coil pack trying to see if maybe was bad, no luck.

Started it up again and got it to move to a more accessable parking spot, called AAA and had it towed to MB.

My service rep called me early this morning, said the tech found no compression on the cylinders and was going to scope it shortly. She thought it was maybe a jumped tooth on the timing chain. She called back later and said the valves in almost every cylinder were bent and the engine is being pulled.

My rep is currently working with my 3rd party warranty company to see if they will cover it.

So my questions to you guys:
1. Anyone ever heard of this before? Fine one night and destroyed engine the next start?
2. Any ideas how much a new 1.8L S/C'd from a 2003 will cost? Installed?

3. Anyone have a silver C230 coupe w/ leather and manual tranny around Philadelphia For Sale?

 

Ouch! - Sorry to hear of your misfortune - This is going to be expensive. Head job - pistons are probably OK

Timing chains don't just break or jump teeth without warning. Have you ever heard the timing chain rattle on cold start ups before the oil pressure comes up???

This is at 75,000 miles - correct?

 

Nope, no rattle, no warning.
That's why I'm so annoyed with this, just all of a sudden, DEAD.
89k on the odo

 

Keep us informed. Tensioner must have broken????

 

Damn bro! That sucks!!

Did you ask them what could have caused this?

 

Ah, the same symptoms I had before my car needed a new engine too.

Have you been running rich? were your tailpipes coated black and occassionally saw a puff of black smoke on startup?

Sounds like you have one with the bad head design and finally the valves stuck on carbon buildup and bent. I'd be interested if:
- all valves are bent?
- any piston damage?

This engine sucks if you get a bad one.