This is a more likely scenario than jumping timing chains that made no noise. But all the valves stuck open??? One valve sticking or maybe at the outside 2 - but all at the same time would seem unlikely. The carbon build up in these engines that leads to incandescence - knock & errosion of the head does not build up evenly. The prognosis on this one is going to be interesting.

Build up that causes valve sticking is on the back of the valve tulip & products like Techron will control this easily. Build up in the combustion chamber on this engine is less easily controlled.

 

I won't know any new info till Monday.
But to answer the questions:
amanonfire - no soot or black smoke that I noticed near the tail pipe or on startup. My SA said the valves were bent on all(?) cylinders. Didn't mention the pistons, but i figure they would at least have some damage from coming into contact?

Glyn M Ruck - heh, funniest thing about this is that I did put the Techron cleaner in last Friday night when I filled up. Then had the issue monday morning.

I should know more details Monday (12/29) I'm very interested in knowing how exactly this happened. When I checked on the 24th my SA was waiting to hear back from the 3rd party warranty to see if this will be covered.

 

I'm really sorry for you man & hope the extended warrantee is going to cover you. Yes I noticed you were using Techron.

The damage is typical of a broken timing chain but then the car would not run so I'm very interested to hear what they find - maybe it did finally break.

Keep us posted

 

This is terrible news, I hope your extended warranty covers the repairs.

 

Hey guys Here's wishing you all a happy new year.

I have booked my car in for service "A" this Friday the 2nd Jan.
I'm not sure what to expect as this is the first time I have had a car serviced at a workshop (MB Dealer).
I hear a lot of terrible stories on MB World about dodgy dealers.
They have organised a loan car for me so I suppose it's a good sign.
In relation to the stuttering problem, Apart from asking them to check the knock Sensor and Fuel Filter, Is there anything else I should ask them to check?
Do I get the error codes once they hook up the machine to the computer (STAR System I think it's called)?

Thank you for your help in 2008.
All the best for 2009

 

I passed by a Caltex petrol station an asked about Chevron. Unfortunately they don't sell it in Australia. They only have Vortex95 & Vortex98:

http://www.caltex.com.au/products_motorists.asp

Is it the same thing?

While I was there I was quite happy to see that they did stock Techron so I picked up a bottle of Techron 5000

I'll put it in the tank after Service "A" on Friday.

 

I've e mailed our Aus Technical Manager for clarification on what clean up additive they are using in Vortex & will revert. It certainly has a clean up additive

Caltex Australia Limited is a JV with the Aus public & has a little more latitude on what they do & how they brand things.

 

Just got an Out of Office till 7 Jan response. Have mailed their Product Line Manager - will revert

 

Thanks for that - it will be interesting to see how the Techron additive in Chevron compares with whatever is in Vortex.
Cheers

 

ram_rtg - Finally got a reply back from our Aus fuels guy. Vortex contains a Lubrizol clean up agent. But the good news is - without messing up their campaign - Techron will be coming soon to a Caltex servo near you plus other exciting product launches. Hang in there. You will have to buy the concentrate for a little while longer

 

Thanks Glyn M Ruck I look forward to the day it makes it down here (Down Under )

 

Well I had my first experience with the MB dealer and ........WoW!!!

Basically I got charged $395 for oil and oil filter change.

Another $75 to hook it up to STAR system (as requested by me to see what error codes get generated)

The STAR diagnostics returned not major error codes just D2B Initialisation errors which I'm told is minor and quite common. The other errors related to components that the car was not equipped with such as COMMAND.

Luckily there were no error codes pertaining to the Auto Transmission or Engine (my peace of mind)

The Service Advisor (who was also a technician previously) said that the technician who inspected the car took it for a drive and couldn't find anything wrong. The stuttering problem I had described did not occur.

He did however have a list of repairs that needed to be done ASAP (Why was I not surprised?!):

1. Front Brake Pads and Discs $730
2. Grab Handle $230
3. Air Filter $90
4. Brake Fluid $185
5. Coolant $255
6. Spark Plugs $135
7. Fuel Filter $330
8. Transmission Service - leaking through data plug $595
9. Tyres - Bridgestone Turanza ER592 $640
10. 2x Front Castor Bushes Split and Leaking + Wheel Alignment $550

This was a total of $3,740.00 so I thought I’d see if I can get the parts myself and take on some DIY projects. The following is what I thought I’d tackle first as they may relate to the Stuttering problem:

1. Spark Plugs (need replacing because of duration)
2. Fuel Filter (need replacing because of duration)
3. Air Filter (need replacing because of duration)

Other DIYs such as coolant, grab handle, Brakes and brake fluid can be done at a later date. I hear replacing brake pads is easy but I’m not sure about the discs/rotors.

I’m currently getting quotes for parts so far best quote is just over $500 excluding Tranny Data Plug. I thought I’d leave the Transmission Service to the professionals.

Any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks in advance
ram_rtg

 

What mileage has the car done? I doubt it needs new discs. 550 Aus Dollars for castor bush replacement is daylight robbery. Problem in Aus is that labour is expensive.

 

The car has just reached 76,000KMs. Yes labour is pretty dear in australia but only at the MB dealers I think.

Can the castor bush be easily replaced? i.e are they easily accessible without having to remove shock absorbers?

I have read that the brake pads simply slide out without removing the entire assembly although I'm not sure if I will need to reset/replace the sensors along with the pads.

I'm now also looking for a good MB mechanic who can do the tranny service.

I was speaking to a friend of mine who owns 2xToyota Altise and he told me that the spark plugs are impossible to reach because they never need to be replaced on those models - that's has to be the most amazing thing I heard all week!

Cheers

 

I'm sure the discs are all fine - Pads are an easy change + new sensors. Castor bushes are easy, undo sway arm, drop castor arms, press out old bushes, press in new ones in exactly the same alignment as old bushes for 3 position bolts. Buy & fit fluted bolts instead of standard ones. Bolt up & have the alignment done.

See DIYs. Others & I have discussed this at length



https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf Ignore VINs - it applies to all



Do some reading - If you have any questions please feel free to ask. - Good Luck

 

Thanks Glyn M Ruck for the DIY. I have gotten some quotes and had the mechanic do some of the repairs.

The total cost ended up being $1,650 and was as follows:

1. Front Brake Pads and Discs $665 mechanic - complete
2. Grab Handle $10 (3M Glue) me
3. Air Filter $70 (MB Spares) me - pending
4. Brake Fluid $0 (included in $665 above) mechanic - complete
5. Coolant $80 me - pending
6. Spark Plugs $80 me - pending
7. Fuel Filter $165 mechanic - pending
8. Transmission Service - leaking through data plug $0 (viscosity test returned good result + no leaks) - not needed
9. Tyres - Bridgestone Turanza ER592 $580 (including 4 xwheel alignment) mechanic - complete
10. 2x Front Castor Bushes Split and Leaking + Wheel Alignment $0 (NOT Split or Leaking) - not needed

I'm really peaved off at MB for not telling me the tranny fluid had been recently changed and for lying to me about the castor bushes (confirmed ok by both the mechanic and tyre place). They will receive a letter from me very soon.

I must say I haven't changed the air filter or fuel filter yet but I suspect that the stuttering problem i have is caused by the air filter because shortly after the MB service it went away then started building up again then when I went to the other mechanic it has also gone away but will probably gradually resurface. Perhaps the opening of the chamber and removal/inspection of the air filter tends to loosen some of the dirt?

I will replace the air filter tomorrow drive the car around for a while and see what difference this makes. If there is still a problem then I will change the fuel filter.

I'll report my findings here.

 

Hey - Making progress. If the castor bushes are OK at 76,000Kms - I imagine they got replaced under warantee & no one told you. Mine had already cracked - no leaks yet at 45,000Km of gentle use.

Watch that transmission leak through data plug - There is an O ring that fails but your car might have missed that - the part has been improved. Just keep an eye open because if oil goes up the wiring harness it will mess up the TCU (transmission control unit) - expensive!

My castor bushes at 45,000Km - The only thing replaced on my car to date plus a 5 cent transmission plug washer that was weeping.

 

Thanks man, you have been extremely helpful. I'll call the mechanic and get them to double check for any leaks.

I have just put in the air filter. It cost me $80 from MB dealer that just happened to be on my way to a job. Oh and yeah I did put it in at 11PM Australia time LOL.

I can't wait to see what difference it makes when I drive the car tomorrow but for now I'd rather stay at home - airconditioned.

BTW If you have heard of the heatwave in Australia well then yeah it's not exaggerated at all see attached pic.

 

52 degrees ouch! - I was living in Sydney at the time of the dreadful fires in & around Canberra - Returned to South Africa at the end of 2003 when my Caltex assignment came to an end. This time round seems a lot worse.

Re car - you have saved yourself a bucket of money!

 

I have a 2013 C250 and had this problem since day 1. In my opinion this is a design flaw as I've noticed the same issue in the loaners they give me when I take my car in for oil changes. I mentioned it to the dealer but nothing was done and I'm too busy to keep taking the car back. I won't buy another. Since my car did it from new and both loaners did it I believe it is the ECU. It's as though the computer is thinking I'm slowing down to make a turn and is too slow to wake up and realize I need to accelerate now. So then 2 second delay. I hate it.

 

Don't know if it helps I have a 06 c230 and did the throttle reset mod and it seems to get rid of the delay when I press on the gas. Not sure it works on 2013 model though. I just pressed my gas pedal to the floor and then put the key in and turned it to the point where if you move it any farther it will turn the car on then I just sat their for about a min with my foot still on the gas. Then I just turned the car off and took my foot off the gas. Not sure how it works or what it is actually doing but the car is running way harder now.