More LED Lamps
http://www.datasheets.led.net/traffi...htm#automotive
http://www.gm-trucks.com/ART_LED.shtml
http://www.led.net/datasheets/Pages/...ls/testim4.htm
I think that they would indeed trigger an error on the computer.
The paramaters they have for that system are real loose. I know I used to get a windshield water out error and coolent error off and on at the exact time and they replaced the sensors.
Then when I had my brake pad sensor disconeceted for awhile after getting porterfield pads, I started to get a front right turn signal lamp out error. And indeed that signal wasn't blinking.
But everytime I checked the bulb and removed it it was ok.
Then it would work again.
But after I re-installed the brake pad sensor, which happens to be on the same wheel as the blinker, never had another computer error.
Might have to solder a resistor accross the leads. Wouldn't affect the LEDs at all.
But will let you know.
And yes they are 41 bucks a set.
Expensive, I know. But they will last forever (so what)
and they turn on and off in nanoseconds compared to incandesents milliseconds.
Like the LED arrays you see on the back of semi trailors and on buses, here in LA at least.
Notice how fast they light and ignite?
;-)
Last edited by todd; Oct 27, 2002 at 04:42 AM.
Im thinking if a error shows up, you can probably take it to the dealer, and maybe there is a setting that can be changed. Just like the HID's
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yes you simply need to measure the resistance of a regular light bulb and then measure the resistance of the led. you would then need to add a reisitor that matched this figure. the problem now is if you add a resistor then the led will not be bright enough. the computer measures resistance
Assuming that the voltage is 12 Volts and the stock incandescent bulb is rated at 27W, its resistance is 12*12/27 = 5.3 Ohms.
The LED bulb draws 160 mA at 12 Volts, which gives us 12/.16 = 75 Ohms (quite a difference! Note: you can't measure its resistance with a multimeter, as they usually are powered by a single 1.5 V battery. This voltage is not high enough to open the LEDs - they are diodes that open up at certain voltage applied to their terminals, and if the unit is designed to work at 12 V, that's the voltage needed to measure its resistance.)
Based on this, the new resistor is supposed to be R = 1/(1/5.3 - 1/75) = 5.74 Ohms. This resistor is supposed to be rated at 12*12/5.74 = 25 W. It'd better have a good heat sink! Like those that came with LED bulbs I ordered a couple of months ago (sorry, forgot the name of the website):
resistor
(They are actually 6 Ohm, rated at 50 W - a little overkill, but they sure won't melt)
Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 01:03 AM.
so if you put them in place parallel to the bulbs, where do you actually place it?
so do you want to place them in parallel with the 2 lights then? in this case the left and right rear turning indicators.
I think the arrays sold at that other site are just like the ones a Pep Boys etc.
The ones from LEDtronics are a little brighter hopefully. They seem to have alot more experience with them as they make industrial apps like traffic lights and street lights.
Because the current draw is so low with LED replacement bulbs, a Load Equalizer is required for each turn signal LED Bulb, and is required for all LED bulbs on Mercedes and other cars with a "Bulb Out" sensing system. Load Equalizers are easily installed with quick connectors which are supplied. Theses are $5 at http://www.formymercedes.com/mb_resu...lacement+Bulbs
is that connector universal? (i.e will it work for turn signal bulbs as well as wedge bulbs such as city lights?) how plug&play are these load equalizer? thanks.
Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 01:01 AM.
I would rather disable the sensing in the computer.
I don't like the idea of making all that heat. Just shorting out, though moderatly, a circuit. Not a big deal, but...
But.... what I really really really want is that program MB runs on the laptop.
I will pay $$$ to anyone who can provide it.
I could have hours and hours of fun with that ;-)
I gotta say that I have a problem with this whole 'load equalization' mode.
I would rather disable the sensing in the computer.
I don't like the idea of making all that heat. Just shorting out, though moderatly, a circuit. Not a big deal, but...
But.... what I really really really want is that program MB runs on the laptop.
I will pay $$$ to anyone who can provide it.
I could have hours and hours of fun with that ;-)
Plus, in case of a turn signal - it's intermittent, and is usually on for a short enough time not to worry about overheating the trunk.
Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 11:36 AM.
I just wanna punch through the technical barrier and gain more control of my car.
I don't like having to go to the dealership for any computer mods.
Anyone pirate this program email me ;-)
Yes very true and it definately won't stop me from using the LEDs.
I just wanna punch through the technical barrier and gain more control of my car.
I don't like having to go to the dealership for any computer mods.
Anyone pirate this program email me ;-)


