Hi Guys,

I just replaced all 4 bushings (Lower/Upper control arms) on my 2002 C230 and thought I'd pass along some tips.

DISCLAIMER: If you bugger your car, or otherwise kill yourself doing this, I take no responsibility. Do at your own risk!

Quick How-To
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0. Freeze new bushings in freezer over night, makes them shrink a tad and easier to press in.
1. Jack up car, remove wheels (straighten wheels when parking!)
2. Remove cover (6 nuts)
3. Remove sway bar, two end link connections first, then 4 Torx bolts (Detailed instructions can be found on MBWorld).
4. Leave the ball joint end bolted in place, you can remove this if you really want to (4-5 extra bolts), but it really isn't required. If you choose to remove the control arms completely, odds are you are going to need an new wheel alignment.
5. Using two 21mm sockets unbolt the control arm from the chassis (2 washers, 1 bolt, 1 nut per arm).
6. The control arm should come down from the chassis quite easily
7. Ok, now at this point you can take the whole arm out and get the old bushing pressed in/out by a machine shop, but frankly that would be way too easy and not fun . So instead buy yourself a 6" two-arm gear puller from your local auto parts store (Canadian Tire here in Canada has a really nice one for 40 bucks).
8. Note the position/orientation of the old bushing, and make sure you press the new one in exactly the same.
9. Lube a socket large enough to push the CORE of the old bushing out, but not large enough to cover the outer bushing collar. And use the gear puller to PUSH the bushing core out of the control arm.
10. Take a hack saw and cut out the metal collar. This is easily done by cutting two cuts spaced apart about the size of a flat head screw driver, taking care not to cut into the arm. Take a flat head screw driver and "peel" out the chunk of metal you just cut. With this chunk of the collar removed the pressure is released on the collar and it slides out like butter.
11. Take your new bushing out the freezer and lube the metal collar with some lithium grease, lube the control arm casing as well.


12. Press new bushing into control arm with gear puller/pusher.

STEP 12 NOTES:

Now here you are going to need something to evenly transfer the pressure of your gear puller/pusher to the outer metal collar of the new bushings so you don't bugger the bushing as you press it in. A "Gear Puller/Pusher Force Distributor" (GPFD) if you will .

It is important to note, DO NOT exert pressure on the inner core of the bushing this will destroy the bushing and not exert nearly the force required to push the bushing into the control arm.

What I came up with is using a small 1/2" thick gear I purchased from Princess Auto (here in Canada) with a few teeth cut out on either end (to make room for the gear puller/pusher arms). The gear was nice because it already had a hole in the middle big enough for the protruding metal core of the bushing. I then using a small thick piece of metal on top of the gear to transfer the load of the gear puller to the gear. Hard to picture, but if anyone needs a sketch let me know.

Secondly, if the "business end" of your gear puller starts to wander as you exert pressure, lube up a small socket and place it on the end of the gear puller to prevent this.

As you push the bushing in, ensure it goes in equally on all sides, some taps with the hammer on the GPFD can "persuade" it if required. Though once the bushing is in 1/5 or so of the way this usually isn't required.

13. Wewf....at this point the bushing should be in and you might be a little tired from cranking that gear puller. Bolt in the control arm, put everything back together (using thread sealer!) and enjoy your "clunk" free car.

Hope this helps! Keep in mind, there IS a MB tool to push out the bushings, so you can also go that route instead of making your own rig. Pretty straight forward with a gear puller though too.

Rich....

 

sweet--no pics???

 

I got no install pics unfortunately, but I can take some pics of the gear pusher/puller.

I'm going to be doing a lower control arm replacement soon as well, so I'll take some install pics of that and make a write up. Lower control arm replacement should be a piece of cake compared to replacing bushings as the replacement arm comes with the bushing pressed in already.

Rich...

 

Why did you replace the lower control arm bushing if you're just going to replace the whole lower control arm?

The ball-joint on the wheel side of the lower control arm on my car is loose and needs replacing.

 

Soooo did you have any of the bushings come appart when you removed them, what a mess Good write up! I used a hydraulic press and an old socket I put a small grove on it that just fit inside the lip. I turned it with the drill press and filed the lip. Worked perfect.

 

Well, I knew going in that my bushing was definitely shot on the driver's side LCA (rubber portion of bushing was torn to hell. I didn't quite know about the ball joint until after I replaced the bushing and there was still a very minor rattle coming from the arm when I tapped it with a rubber mallet. And sure enough when I drive over certain (extreme) bumps I'll get a little rattle.

In any case, it's minor enough that I'm going to wait until after pot hole season next spring before I replace the arm. I got 95% of what I was looking for with all the bushings replaced which is back to a Mercedes-smooth ride .

Rich...

 

Well, the driver's side LCA bushing was already completely buggered so no fluid was left in that one. The passenger side LCA bushing still had fluid in it, and WOW that did make a huge mess hehehe. Luckily I had a large tarp under the car just in case .

Rich...

 

If you know how to press the bushings in the arm, the bushing and arm are half the price when you purchase them seperate. If you buy them together its twice the price. oempartsdirect.com or I have seen a complete kit on ebay.

 

twice the price might be better for some if time is money!!!---only problem I would see that the bushings in the end would not be OEM quality??

 

Its coming from a Mercedes dealer in A Mercedes package, with a Mercedes invoice?????

By the way we have a new guy at oempartsdirect.com His name is Chris, nice guy great with the help!

 

Just an FYI, LCA arm & bushing (P/N 2033303311-left & 2033303411-right) is $134 at autohausaz.com. UCA's & bushing are slightly more @ $138 (P/N 2033303911-left & 2033304011-right).

Bushings go for $30 bucks each. So depends what $100 per arm is worth to you in terms of time.

Rich...

 

I orderded a recieved Mercedes parts(just want to make it clear) In Mercedes package, from Mercedes dealer, the bushings for the thrust arm for $18.00 a piece. The arms without bearing I believe where $72.00 a piece. The whole assy. was @$175.00 bushing and arm. So what I am saying is that you can get the Mercedes parts for $90.00 and put them together or $175.00 together.

 

I forgot i even had a complete spare OEM set from my other wrecked coupe but i believe the one control arm is slightly bent due to the wreck, however the bushings only have 8,000 miles on them---I might only have to press one side out!!!! and swap the whole other control arm----

Thanks for the part numbers Rich, it was great you did this DIY thread--will be making a shoping list up shortly!