Engine Oil Flush on M112 Engine
been searching for engine oil flush thread, but haven't found yet. I'm sorry if this a repost thread.
here's the thing, after browsing this forum I found out a quite usefull link
-http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html-
for passenger cars with gas and diesel engines with extended drain interval indicator FSS up to 20,000 km, or 40,000 km - 25,000 mi, current minimum spec for 1998+ MB engines, min. 1.0% fuel saving compared to 229.1, based on ACEA A3 B4. For gas engine of the M100 series, gas engines of the M200 series and diesel engines of the OM600 series (not models with diesel particulate filter).
AGIP EXTRA HTS 5W-40
AGIP Synthetic PC 0W-40
AGIP Eurosport 0W-40
Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic
Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel
Aral HighTronic 5W-40
Aral SuperSynth 0W-40
Aral Super Tronic 0W-40
Aviasynth 0W-40
but later on, I found out from a pdf file MB Factory Approved Products Sep '06 (attached below)
AMSOIL wasn't listed as 229.3 approved oil.
I live in a tropical country, so 0W or 5W is not necessary. that's why I'm contemplating to use a 10W-30 oil.
can anyone give any recommendation for a 10W-30 oil that meets 229.3 MB spec?
and I also want to ask, I'm currently using a 5W-50 oil. had I change the oil to a 10W-30, should I do an engine flush? is it recommended to flush our engine oil with an engine flush liquid? such as STP or Amsoil engine flush.
many thanks,
(sorry for the bad English
)
If you’re so inclined, you will find some worthwhile information here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
anyone could help for my choice of using Amsoil on E26 M112 engine?



The additive package in the oil also lowers the viscosity, so even though you are in a warm climate you should use approved oils to avoid sludge. There is an added benefit in that the approved oils slightly improve mileage over 10W-30 oils.
Never use conventional motor oils. They contain wax and varnishes that harmful to your engine. On the oher hand synthetics allow engines run for more than 200,000 miles wth virtually no wear.
For flushing, it is generally not needed, so save your money. If your gasoline is poor, you might have excessive lacquer in the crankcase from the blow by gases. The oil does not hold these easily so a solvent can be used every other oil change. I use this product from Lubro-Moly:
http://www.performanceproducts4benz....ly+Motor+Clean
The chief reason I use it is that it thins the oil and makes it easier to suck out the dip stick tube. Draining the oil is a waste of time and consumables, and does not get anymore oil out of the engine than pumping it out.
Last edited by Moviela; Oct 21, 2007 at 04:16 PM.
hmmm.. I guess it is not recommended to use Amsoil 10W-30, then?
perhaps I should stick for the current oil viscosity, after all it's been 7 years with this oil and my car can still run topspeed easily.
warm the engine up slightly,like 5 minutes from cold and follow the diy link.
http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/OilFilter2
other good diy on that site for the m112 engine,and over on benzworld.org w210 forum diy section for the m112 engine.
ohlord

"GOT CODES?"
also in answer to the above if you look at Mercedes oil recommendations for the rest of the world--and since you state you are in a tropical country,then amsoil is an approved 229.3 oil in the 10w30
I would stick with mobil 1 0w40 and don't flush,you may remove the coating that gets on the seals and gaskets after several years and you may get some oil seepage ,change the oil and fleece filter properly at the proper interval and you will never need a chemical flush.
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
Last edited by ohlord; Oct 25, 2007 at 04:13 PM.
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