: : [ Need new Brake Pads ] : :
I saw some kevlar one's on tire rack.
EBC Green
has anyone used these or know anything about them?
also what other kinds would you suggest?
Last edited by Vince; Nov 3, 2002 at 07:27 PM.
If price is a concern, I've heard Pagids work great. A more traditional semi-metallic but dusts a lot less than stock and cost about $50 (front pads only). There's also Mintex, haven't heard much good or bad.
side note:
my 500th post. I'm a super member
do the pagids squeal like the porterfields? i'm really picky with sounds. any one know?
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ok this might sound really dumb but how do you install the pads. Do you install them yourself or dealer? Thanks
I'd say leave your brakes to a professional.
I installed everything myself and it wasn't difficult. If you know how to turn a wrench, you could DIY. Do a search for brake pads and you'll find a description of an installation by someone or someone who has done it on your model car who'll help you out.
do you need to replace both the front and back or the front by itself is enough? Would the brake still work fine with the front only replaced? I have no idea about brakes.
The bolt runs through that. The head of the bolt is facing towards the inside of the car, if you get your head in the wheelwell, you'll see it.
There is a similar one on the bottom. Remove those two bolts and the caliper comes right apart. The pads will come right out.
That's it.
Put the new pads in, bolt those 2 bolts back (I use Blue loctite on them), and that's it.
Once you have the wheel off, its a 5 minute job.
Once you remove the two bolts, the inner part of the caliper, marked with the X in the picture, pulls right off. As you can see, that inner part is what holds the brake pads. When you remove the inner part, the brake pads fall right out.
You don't need to disconnect any hydraulic lines or anything like that. Its a simple mechanical operation.
That's it.
(The rears are even easier. One single pin holds the pads in. Push it out to remove the pads, drive it back in to put them back in).
P.S. I wonder why your brake rotors are so rusty? My car is 2 years old, and there is not a speck of rust on the rotors.
3/32" and left a ridge about .030". Pads are too "high" in brake pad talk. Porterfield said their "mold" was evidently off but not to worry, no problem caused. I looked at them because I started getting a click from the back when braking after 5K miles on the pad. Put MB pads back on and noise stopped. I'm guessing the noise had something to do with the ridge...which is easy enough to file off but APITA to do every 5K miles.
You can also change just the front pads and it won't affect the rears. Best to check the remaining pads you have and see how much mileage you have left. Might be worth it to do it all at once if they both need replacing although the fronts do 70-80% of the work and probably will be the first to need it.
If you're changing pads because of wear then you most likely have to replace your rotors or have them turned (resurfaced). OEM rotors are relatively inexpensive and there is some debate as to whether you can or should resurface rotors. I'd opt to get new ones.
paid $159 for porterfield r4-s for the front wheels. That includes shipping and anti squeal lube. This was the best price i could find online. Autowerks wanted $169 without shipping, tax and anti-squeal lub and they also claimed that that was the discounted price.
formymercedes.com
Last edited by Buellwinkle; Nov 6, 2002 at 02:53 PM.
Your total to your door is: $151.88
Full retail would be $199.84.

I want to know how much would be if we do a new group of buyers? any one is interested ?
Last edited by Diego; Nov 6, 2002 at 03:01 AM.






