aftermarket SUBS & AMPS for the C-Class 203s
#226
looks good, i was looking into this style also, doesn't take up much room, uses unnecessary space. You made that yourself right?? Does anyone know if there is a company that pre-makes these types of enclosures that fit there? Ive searched online everywhere and cant find one.
#228
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02 C320 Sedan
Yes remove rear deck... if you have rear sunshade make sure you go very slow but it will remove.. i removed the sub and play with it in the garage... its either an 8 or a 10.
Putting the rear deck back in is a ***** all im going to say lol
#229
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
No dude, the amps are in NO WAY turned up to near maximum capability! Just because I look stupid, and you can't see me, doesn't mean I am...hehe. I'm also sure that there are few electronics manufacturers that actually rate their equipment in true form. Yeah, all of it is rated at peak performance, done in a lab, at the perfect operating temperature as a simulated computer model. All manufacturers want to beef their products, but as the old Ebay saying goes, "It powers up, and the light comes on, but we have no way of testing the item" (One idiot had that sentence on an Ebay listing for a 19" color TV, what a real genius, huh?). The power rating that manufacturer's use for their specs, is nowhere near what you or I would actually get as an average consumer. Computer component manufacturer's use these tactics all the time. To include the size rating of the hard drive in your computer right now. Do you actually get the 500GB listed on HDD box? Certainly not, no one does. Everyone gets less. No one gets more, ...ever. It's the same with this topic. And I agree with the other comment in the thread, in reference to putting 920 watts into any set of coaxial speakers.....that would be the ultimate death sentence, or "Smoke testing", as I call it. I have never officially measured my wattage with any kind of meter, and now that I think about it, no one I know has. Hell, I haven't even measured the amperage draw when it's pumped up. Maybe one day I'll have a power issue and I will feel the urge to see, for now, not! BTW, One of my other ham radio buddies had a formula to calculate actual wattage by using the voltage and an average of the amperage draw, but for the life of me, I can't remember it.
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#230
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C230 K Coupe (05)
yeah...i wanna know what u did too. I have a coupe and wanted to put the sub in spare tire area since my spare tire wont fit on the car anymore ![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
i dunno much about speaker set up but is the acoustic okay if it is placed in that area?
thanks!![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
i dunno much about speaker set up but is the acoustic okay if it is placed in that area?
thanks!
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#231
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
You got a nice box etc... but they couldn't hide your red power cable?
Yes remove rear deck... if you have rear sunshade make sure you go very slow but it will remove.. i removed the sub and play with it in the garage... its either an 8 or a 10.
Putting the rear deck back in is a ***** all im going to say lol
Yes remove rear deck... if you have rear sunshade make sure you go very slow but it will remove.. i removed the sub and play with it in the garage... its either an 8 or a 10.
Putting the rear deck back in is a ***** all im going to say lol
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#232
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08 E63
Here is what a friend and I made for mine. Nothing fancy just something to hear a little thump.
Eclipse AVN 6610 Head unit
1 12" Directed Competition X
1 MTX 1200 Wat Monoblock
Eclipse AVN 6610 Head unit
1 12" Directed Competition X
1 MTX 1200 Wat Monoblock
![](http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k122/wccjre/DSC01390.jpg)
#233
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2003 C240
looks good, i was looking into this style also, doesn't take up much room, uses unnecessary space. You made that yourself right?? Does anyone know if there is a company that pre-makes these types of enclosures that fit there? Ive searched online everywhere and cant find one.
Don't think anyone pre-makes these enclosures.
Also I made sure the installer left enough wire to pull the box out in case I need to access the fuses thus the wire in the pic.
Check out this thread: Ryanr317 also has a similar one he made himself.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ed-subs-2.html
#234
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C320 coupe
ooo shoot that really eat up alot of space for us... was thinking of the pioneer shallow so that it take less space.... any input for them?
#235
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08 E63
The shallow speakers are great if you want to save trunk space. mine looks big but it really is not i can still get my spare tire out no problem.
#236
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2003 C240
Where did you place your amp Ryanr317?
On mine, I had to tell the installer to leave me enough wire so I can pull the box out in case I need to.
Looks good though...very neat!
I did about 9 layers of fib glass if I remember correctly...then I sprayed an expanding insulation foam on the base.
All those hours of sanding was a bi$ch!WHEW!!
On mine, I had to tell the installer to leave me enough wire so I can pull the box out in case I need to.
Looks good though...very neat!
I did about 9 layers of fib glass if I remember correctly...then I sprayed an expanding insulation foam on the base.
All those hours of sanding was a bi$ch!WHEW!!
#237
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Hey Audio Guru's
I need more bass in my car and currently have an AVIC-D3 with no other audio upgrades over stock. I really want a space saver and like the idea of powered subs. I have been thinking about underseat subs, but this powered sub seems to have better reviews:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236XT11...0P.html?tp=114
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...599104&sr=8-12
OR
http://www.amazon.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW...599390&sr=8-25
2 questions:
(1) does anyone have experience with this? and would this be an easy hook up to my AVIC-D3?
(2) where should i place this thing? is there a good spot somewhere in the inner panels of the trunk? (i'd like to keep it as stealth as possible)
Thanks!
I need more bass in my car and currently have an AVIC-D3 with no other audio upgrades over stock. I really want a space saver and like the idea of powered subs. I have been thinking about underseat subs, but this powered sub seems to have better reviews:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236XT11...0P.html?tp=114
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...599104&sr=8-12
OR
http://www.amazon.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW...599390&sr=8-25
2 questions:
(1) does anyone have experience with this? and would this be an easy hook up to my AVIC-D3?
(2) where should i place this thing? is there a good spot somewhere in the inner panels of the trunk? (i'd like to keep it as stealth as possible)
Thanks!
Last edited by Midnight Koop; 07-03-2009 at 01:37 AM.
#238
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I have experience of the Infinity unit - easy integration with anything. You need to talk to the coupe guys on mounting. The MTX unit also looks pretty good on paper - not sold here to my knowledge. You need to stay away from subs that give you "one note" base boom & use one that provides some texture to the bass. The Infinity does this well.
#240
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I have experience of the Infinity unit - easy integration with anything. You need to talk to the coupe guys on mounting. The MTX unit also looks pretty good on paper - not sold here to my knowledge. You need to stay away from subs that give you "one note" base boom & use one that provides some texture to the bass. The Infinity does this well.
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-ThunderLin...6634297&sr=8-6
this one seems like it would give more texture to the bass like you said... but i'm no expert
looks like the JL audio ones have good reviews, but then I'll have to get an amp and i'm trying not to spend more than 600 on this project
#241
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C230 coupe 2002
I guess its all about taste. If you want bass so your head goes
, you cannot go with Pioneer , I had MTX Subs
not impressed ... Sony and Dual and Kenwood
... Abrahm i would go with JLs or Kicker subs .. i have 2 Kickers CVRs (Old school).. not the new cheap *** CVRs.. And a PDX-1.1000 , and walls are shaking... Its worth it to spend the money on JLs or some Kickers L7s
.. in the end you wont regret it.
So my opinion without including Competiton subs-
Subs That i tried, that will not let you down(depending on what models of course)
Kicker
Alpine
JL Audio
JBL
Boston Acustics
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Shakehead](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/shakehead.gif)
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
So my opinion without including Competiton subs-
Subs That i tried, that will not let you down(depending on what models of course)
Kicker
Alpine
JL Audio
JBL
Boston Acustics
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#242
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The above comment illustrates well what I'm talking about. If you want ear shattering inaccurate ghetto blaster bass at high SPL's then go Kicker. You are not looking for accuracy - you are looking for noise at ear damaging db levels.
From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.
From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.
#243
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C230 coupe 2002
The above comment illustrates well what I'm talking about. If you want ear shattering inaccurate ghetto blaster bass at high SPL's then go Kicker. You are not looking for accuracy - you are looking for noise at ear damaging db levels.
From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.
From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#244
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I'm afraid I consider Bose as junk too - including their domestic systems - Bose make lifestyle systems - not decent audio systems.
#245
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2002 c230 coupe
JL 12W3 in a custom fiberglass enclosure
JL 12W3 in a custom fiberglass enclosure powered by an Alpine PDX-5 located in the front passenger foot well.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6464-img-2122.jpg)
With the lid on
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6467-2.jpg)
Alpine W505 w/ NVE-P1 and CD changer which is identical to the stock unit. The P1 has been acting up, the docking module has been replaced but only works once in a while. I think the nav antenna is bad. I'm hoping to get this resolved asap. Otherwise the deck is pretty good, iphone/ipod videos are supported. I can burn a bunch of mp3s on a DVD and that's plenty. USB sticks are supported but the deck has to read and bank the tracks into memory. Great for long trips but not practical if you're usually doing short trips. It takes way too long to bank the tracks and difficult to choose tracks until the banking is finished. Nav is not bad when it's working. The bluetooth pairs with my blackberyy 8830 as soon as I turn on the car but can only upload a portion of my contacts. Not a big deal as I usually dial from my bb anyway.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6466-img-2130.jpg)
Bluetooth Mic, this is probably the most practical feature. No more bluetooth headsets, I can now provide tech support while driving safely.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6459-img-2125.jpg)
Sirius and Nav antenna. There's really not much to see other than the deck and antennas are exposed. I really wanted a sort of stealthy install.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6464-img-2122.jpg)
With the lid on
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6467-2.jpg)
Alpine W505 w/ NVE-P1 and CD changer which is identical to the stock unit. The P1 has been acting up, the docking module has been replaced but only works once in a while. I think the nav antenna is bad. I'm hoping to get this resolved asap. Otherwise the deck is pretty good, iphone/ipod videos are supported. I can burn a bunch of mp3s on a DVD and that's plenty. USB sticks are supported but the deck has to read and bank the tracks into memory. Great for long trips but not practical if you're usually doing short trips. It takes way too long to bank the tracks and difficult to choose tracks until the banking is finished. Nav is not bad when it's working. The bluetooth pairs with my blackberyy 8830 as soon as I turn on the car but can only upload a portion of my contacts. Not a big deal as I usually dial from my bb anyway.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6466-img-2130.jpg)
Bluetooth Mic, this is probably the most practical feature. No more bluetooth headsets, I can now provide tech support while driving safely.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6459-img-2125.jpg)
Sirius and Nav antenna. There's really not much to see other than the deck and antennas are exposed. I really wanted a sort of stealthy install.
![](https://mbworld.org/forums/members/ebargados-albums-audio-picture6465-img-2127.jpg)
Last edited by ebargados; 07-04-2009 at 01:04 AM.
#247
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I'm not being nasty - I'm just a high end audio nut & love top American audio gear.