aftermarket SUBS & AMPS for the C-Class 203s
Yes remove rear deck... if you have rear sunshade make sure you go very slow but it will remove.. i removed the sub and play with it in the garage... its either an 8 or a 10.
Putting the rear deck back in is a ***** all im going to say lol

i dunno much about speaker set up but is the acoustic okay if it is placed in that area?
thanks!

Yes remove rear deck... if you have rear sunshade make sure you go very slow but it will remove.. i removed the sub and play with it in the garage... its either an 8 or a 10.
Putting the rear deck back in is a ***** all im going to say lol
Don't think anyone pre-makes these enclosures.
Also I made sure the installer left enough wire to pull the box out in case I need to access the fuses thus the wire in the pic.
Check out this thread: Ryanr317 also has a similar one he made himself.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ed-subs-2.html
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
On mine, I had to tell the installer to leave me enough wire so I can pull the box out in case I need to.
Looks good though...very neat!
I did about 9 layers of fib glass if I remember correctly...then I sprayed an expanding insulation foam on the base.
All those hours of sanding was a bi$ch!WHEW!!
I need more bass in my car and currently have an AVIC-D3 with no other audio upgrades over stock. I really want a space saver and like the idea of powered subs. I have been thinking about underseat subs, but this powered sub seems to have better reviews:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236XT11...0P.html?tp=114
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...599104&sr=8-12
OR
http://www.amazon.com/KENWOOD-KSC-SW...599390&sr=8-25
2 questions:
(1) does anyone have experience with this? and would this be an easy hook up to my AVIC-D3?
(2) where should i place this thing? is there a good spot somewhere in the inner panels of the trunk? (i'd like to keep it as stealth as possible)
Thanks!
Last edited by Midnight Koop; Jul 3, 2009 at 01:37 AM.

http://www.amazon.com/MTX-ThunderLin...6634297&sr=8-6
this one seems like it would give more texture to the bass like you said... but i'm no expert
looks like the JL audio ones have good reviews, but then I'll have to get an amp and i'm trying not to spend more than 600 on this project
, you cannot go with Pioneer , I had MTX Subs
not impressed ... Sony and Dual and Kenwood
... Abrahm i would go with JLs or Kicker subs .. i have 2 Kickers CVRs (Old school).. not the new cheap *** CVRs.. And a PDX-1.1000 , and walls are shaking... Its worth it to spend the money on JLs or some Kickers L7s
.. in the end you wont regret it.So my opinion without including Competiton subs-
Subs That i tried, that will not let you down(depending on what models of course)
Kicker
Alpine
JL Audio
JBL
Boston Acustics

From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.
From a true audio perspective where one is endeavouring to get sound approaching the source then go JL Audio or Infinity. Both will provide subtlety & nuance & at least by car audio standards be half accurate. You can also get away with crappy Class D amplification (frequently & incorrectly termed digital amplification). Just don't use class D for mids & highs - they suck!
I strongly recommend you go and listen before purchase. If you want a pretty good reference then go & listen to a Mark Levinson car system - Like Infinity (& JBL for that matter - but JBL is more Kicker like in sound) They are part of the Dr Sidney Harmon empire & at least have some decent sound engineers doing their design work & will stand behind their product when things go wrong.
The automobile is a hostile environment when it comes to achieving decent sound.
If you want a purely reference home audio sub to compare with the car sub you intend buying - go and listen to one of the high end servo controlled Velodyne products (must be a servo model) - That's what you should be aiming at in sub performance. There are other excellent subs - I'm just using Velodyne as an example.
It's not all about taste - it's about accuracy.


With the lid on

Alpine W505 w/ NVE-P1 and CD changer which is identical to the stock unit. The P1 has been acting up, the docking module has been replaced but only works once in a while. I think the nav antenna is bad. I'm hoping to get this resolved asap. Otherwise the deck is pretty good, iphone/ipod videos are supported. I can burn a bunch of mp3s on a DVD and that's plenty. USB sticks are supported but the deck has to read and bank the tracks into memory. Great for long trips but not practical if you're usually doing short trips. It takes way too long to bank the tracks and difficult to choose tracks until the banking is finished. Nav is not bad when it's working. The bluetooth pairs with my blackberyy 8830 as soon as I turn on the car but can only upload a portion of my contacts. Not a big deal as I usually dial from my bb anyway.

Bluetooth Mic, this is probably the most practical feature. No more bluetooth headsets, I can now provide tech support while driving safely.

Sirius and Nav antenna. There's really not much to see other than the deck and antennas are exposed. I really wanted a sort of stealthy install.
Last edited by ebargados; Jul 4, 2009 at 01:04 AM.




