C230 Sport Coup's All things AT Transmission related
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Early 722.9 transmissions had TCU, Conductor plate, valve body issues that Benz is well aware of. If you have trouble go to Sandown Motors ~ they are owned by MBSA.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 62
Likes: 10
From: Central Michigan
(2) 2004 Mercedes Benz CLK500, (2) 2005 ML500, SL500
FYI
I changed the transmission filter, pilot bushing, and flushed the ATF in my wife's 2004 CLK500. The dealer had to order the seal rings (O-rings) where the cooler line goes into the radiator. The part # has changed from 028-977-62-48 to 019-997-57-45.
I also measured them and both O-rings on the new MB pilot bushing if anyone
is interested.
I changed the transmission filter, pilot bushing, and flushed the ATF in my wife's 2004 CLK500. The dealer had to order the seal rings (O-rings) where the cooler line goes into the radiator. The part # has changed from 028-977-62-48 to 019-997-57-45.
I also measured them and both O-rings on the new MB pilot bushing if anyone
is interested.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Excellent!
FYI
I changed the transmission filter, pilot bushing, and flushed the ATF in my wife's 2004 CLK500. The dealer had to order the seal rings (O-rings) where the cooler line goes into the radiator. The part # has changed from 028-977-62-48 to 019-997-57-45.
I also measured them and both O-rings on the new MB pilot bushing if anyone
is interested.
I changed the transmission filter, pilot bushing, and flushed the ATF in my wife's 2004 CLK500. The dealer had to order the seal rings (O-rings) where the cooler line goes into the radiator. The part # has changed from 028-977-62-48 to 019-997-57-45.
I also measured them and both O-rings on the new MB pilot bushing if anyone
is interested.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
W203 C320, W208 CLK 320, w209 CLK 500
Have a question, I'd been meaning to get the fluid changed since I bought my car a couple months ago, as to my knowledge it has never been changed (98k miles currently) and our indy mechanic is currently out of town so my dad opted for a local aamco shop to do it (something I was weary of). When we took the car there the mechanic was hesitant of doing the job in the first place and then took a little fluid out of the transmission and somehow arrived at the conclusion that the transmission needed a rebuild because the fluid was badly burnt, which it did not appear to be (brown color as opposed to black). Now after reading this thread I have an even harder time believing that the tranny is actually in need of a rebuild, coupled with the fact that there are absolutely no noticeable issues with the transmission at this time (other than the lack of fluid change). So my question is, is this guy full of bs and will a fluid change suffice? Will take it to the indy shop for his opinion as well.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Grasshopper: Have you not answered your own question?
Do you hear the sound of one hand slapping...your face?
Or do you feel the feeling of the other hand emptying your wallet?
Did he offer to rebuild the engine as well since it's attached to the tranny?
Yes, at 98K the fluid will be burnt.
Go back to the beginning of this thread and read what Blackstone said about my fluid.
BURNT!
I flushed 1st time at 120K, at which time I started getting odd shifting, which was immediately fixed
after the fluid was replaced.
I did it again at 180k
So, Well, here I am 190K on the original tranny.
It's still working just fine.
Do you hear the sound of one hand slapping...your face?
Or do you feel the feeling of the other hand emptying your wallet?
Did he offer to rebuild the engine as well since it's attached to the tranny?
Yes, at 98K the fluid will be burnt.
Go back to the beginning of this thread and read what Blackstone said about my fluid.
BURNT!
I flushed 1st time at 120K, at which time I started getting odd shifting, which was immediately fixed
after the fluid was replaced.
I did it again at 180k
So, Well, here I am 190K on the original tranny.
It's still working just fine.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Sep 4, 2012 at 05:07 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: Portland, Oregon
W203 C320, W208 CLK 320, w209 CLK 500
Haha, thanks. Just wanted the opinion of the experts to confirm my thoughts, and be definitively sure that the mechanic was just spewing the doom and gloom to try and make a quick buck. 
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Transmission Flush *** Report ***
Transmission Flush *** Report ***
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
- For raising the car, I have a pair of plastic 7" ramps for the front wheels, put a piece of 3/4" plywood in each to give a bit more height. I made a pair of 6" ramps out of plywood for the rears. The nice thing about the 6" ramps is that they will fit under the car between the front and rear wheels, so I can drive all four wheels up on ramps at the same time. This adds a couple more inches of overall room under the car, which makes a huge difference for maneuvering underneath.
- After I pulled the drain plug and let the oil flow die down, I pulled the top cooling line hose from the radiator and blew air into the radiator to push out the old fluid from the radiator tubing and return line back into the transmission so I could drain it out as well. To do this I used a piece of the 1/2" ID tubing I had bought for the flush procedure, held it tight against the radiator fitting hole, and blew. A few strong breaths and I could hear the pipes clearing.
- A note on pulling the cooling line from the radiator: There is about 12" of hard line down from the radiator plug, which is held by three barb-clamps. The two bottom clamps hold the two hard lines (send and return) together ... these were easy to disconnect from the send line that I was pulling. The upper clamp, which is about 5" down from the radiator plug, looks like a simple barb that you push in ... however the clamp part of it pinches the pipe a bit so it takes a bit of muscle to pop it out. Once I realized that there was no obstruction it came out pretty quickly. I did not have to remove any of the engine compartment bracing to do this ... it really wasn't that hard once you knew how it all fit together.
- Another note on the cooling line ... the wire clip that holds the plug in the radiator sits in barbs at the ends. You have to spread the ends of the clip out a bit to slip them over the set of barbs, then the clip slides out about 1/2" so you can pull out the plug. The plug is just pressed in there, mostly held by the o-ring. With a little wiggling it comes right out. And no fluid splash when I did this.
- I bought the Home Depot cement mixing pan to "drop" the tranny pan into, but it turns out I didn't need it. I just removed all the pan bolts and then carefully lowered the pan down and tilted it to pour the remaining oil into my oil catch pan. Didn't really make a mess at all.
- Filter was easy to pull and replace. The old filter had a bit of sediment paste on the bottom, otherwise just looked like dirty oil.
- Magnet did not have much of anything on it. The pan and magnet cleaned up easily. The pan went back on rather easily.
- Next up was the electrical plug insert. Mine wasn't leaking but I figured I should replace it. This took about 5 minutes.
- Up top I connected the 1/2" ID tubing to the cooling send line I had pulled earlier, and used a hose clamp to fasten it. This part was surprisingly simple. I routed the line over the top of the front body bracing and over to my dump bucket on the side of the car.
- I bought a case (12 quarts) of Shell ATF 134 -- 236.14 spec
- 5 quarters were drained initially. So I added 4.5 quarts.
- ran engine, drained 2.5, added 2.5
- ran engine, drained 2 more, added 2
- ran engine, drained 2.5 more, bright red now. Added 2.5.
- total 12 quarts out, 11.5 in
- Put new O-ring on cooling line plug and popped the line back into the radiator and barb clamps.
- I bought the IR thermometer but that didn't work out so well. The highest reading I could get on the pan was 65C. So I figured I would have to do the test drive
- checked fluid level .. at bottom mark for 80C range. Since the car seemed to drive fine, and I don't know if I drove enough to warm the fluid up all the way, I left it there and will check it again sometime after a longer drive. I still have 1/2 quart of fluid left to add if necessary.
- I bought a couple of lock pins, but it looks like the filler cap clicks in place so there is really no need for lock pins. Once I've rechecked the fluid level after a length drive, I'll put a lock pin in and call it done for the next 2 years.
Last edited by jkowtko; Nov 13, 2012 at 09:22 AM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Nice job. Sounds like 'it's all good'. I kept expecting that you were documenting a problem. 
Ha, well the cement mixing pan may not be essential, it certainly helps to maintain a clean environment around your working space and gives you a place to put the pan, while you wrestle in a new filter. For $5 I find it useful.
Hope you replaced the O rings on the electrical while you were down there.
Ha, well the cement mixing pan may not be essential, it certainly helps to maintain a clean environment around your working space and gives you a place to put the pan, while you wrestle in a new filter. For $5 I find it useful.
Hope you replaced the O rings on the electrical while you were down there.
Transmission Flush *** Report ***
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
- For raising the car, I have a pair of plastic 7" ramps for the front wheels, put a piece of 3/4" plywood in each to give a bit more height. I made a pair of 6" ramps out of plywood for the rears. The nice thing about the 6" ramps is that they will fit under the car between the front and rear wheels, so I can drive all four wheels up on ramps at the same time. This adds a couple more inches of overall room under the car, which makes a huge difference for maneuvering underneath.
- After I pulled the drain plug and let the oil flow die down, I pulled the top cooling line hose from the radiator and blew air into the radiator to push out the old fluid from the radiator tubing and return line back into the transmission so I could drain it out as well. To do this I used a piece of the 1/2" ID tubing I had bought for the flush procedure, held it tight against the radiator fitting hole, and blew. A few strong breaths and I could hear the pipes clearing.
- A note on pulling the cooling line from the radiator: There is about 12" of hard line down from the radiator plug, which is held by three barb-clamps. The two bottom clamps hold the two hard lines (send and return) together ... these were easy to disconnect from the send line that I was pulling. The upper clamp, which is about 5" down from the radiator plug, looks like a simple barb that you push in ... however the clamp part of it pinches the pipe a bit so it takes a bit of muscle to pop it out. Once I realized that there was no obstruction it came out pretty quickly. I did not have to remove any of the engine compartment bracing to do this ... it really wasn't that hard once you knew how it all fit together.
- Another note on the cooling line ... the wire clip that holds the plug in the radiator sits in barbs at the ends. You have to spread the ends of the clip out a bit to slip them over the set of barbs, then the clip slides out about 1/2" so you can pull out the plug. The plug is just pressed in there, mostly held by the o-ring. With a little wiggling it comes right out. And no fluid splash when I did this.
- I bought the Home Depot cement mixing pan to "drop" the tranny pan into, but it turns out I didn't need it. I just removed all the pan bolts and then carefully lowered the pan down and tilted it to pour the remaining oil into my oil catch pan. Didn't really make a mess at all.
- Filter was easy to pull and replace. The old filter had a bit of sediment paste on the bottom, otherwise just looked like dirty oil.
- Magnet did not have much of anything on it. The pan and magnet cleaned up easily. The pan went back on rather easily.
- Next up was the electrical plug insert. Mine wasn't leaking but I figured I should replace it. This took about 5 minutes.
- Up top I connected the 1/2" ID tubing to the cooling send line I had pulled earlier, and used a hose clamp to fasten it. This part was surprisingly simple. I routed the line over the top of the front body bracing and over to my dump bucket on the side of the car.
- I bought a case (12 quarts) of Shell ATF 134 -- 236.14 spec
- 5 quarters were drained initially. So I added 4.5 quarts.
- ran engine, drained 2.5, added 2.5
- ran engine, drained 2 more, added 2
- ran engine, drained 2.5 more, bright red now. Added 2.5.
- total 12 quarts out, 11.5 in
- Put new O-ring on cooling line plug and popped the line back into the radiator and barb clamps.
- I bought the IR thermometer but that didn't work out so well. The highest reading I could get on the pan was 65C. So I figured I would have to do the test drive
- checked fluid level .. at bottom mark for 80C range. Since the car seemed to drive fine, and I don't know if I drove enough to warm the fluid up all the way, I left it there and will check it again sometime after a longer drive. I still have 1/2 quart of fluid left to add if necessary.
- I bought a couple of lock pins, but it looks like the filler cap clicks in place so there is really no need for lock pins.
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
No, I really didn't encounter any problems. I spent several weeks researching this carefully and took my time getting set up with the right tools.
I posted this mainly to provide additional clarification and detail to the existing DIYs already posted, for the benefit of others.
While the pan was off I had my oil catch pan under there. I have one of these:
which holds 10 qts and provides pretty good coverage. And underneath it I had a 2' x 3' plastic drip tray that caught a few more drips until I had the pan back on.
Yes, the new electrical plug adapters come with O-rings now. And I've gotten into the habit of replacing rubber seals and washers on all the repairs I do.
I posted this mainly to provide additional clarification and detail to the existing DIYs already posted, for the benefit of others.
which holds 10 qts and provides pretty good coverage. And underneath it I had a 2' x 3' plastic drip tray that caught a few more drips until I had the pan back on.
Yes, the new electrical plug adapters come with O-rings now. And I've gotten into the habit of replacing rubber seals and washers on all the repairs I do.
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 904
Likes: 22
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada, eh!
2003 C230 Sports Coupe, Paprika Metallic Red, Auto, Pano, Leather
- I bought the IR thermometer but that didn't work out so well. The highest reading I could get on the pan was 65C. So I figured I would have to do the test drive
- checked fluid level .. at bottom mark for 80C range. Since the car seemed to drive fine, and I don't know if I drove enough to warm the fluid up all the way, I left it there and will check it again sometime after a longer drive. I still have 1/2 quart of fluid left to add if necessary.
You could use the built in coolant temperature reader that display on the instrument display cluster. Navigate to Mileage section and then coolant temperature.
Its not as accurate as IR thermometer pointed at transmission oil pan,... but since coolant temperature sensor is on engine and gives a good reading of engine temperature and since the engine bone is connected to the transmission bone,... its a decent ball park.
And you would not have to do a test drive,... just idle long enough,.. engine temperature should get up to 80 degree Celsius,... maybe rev a bit to help speed up the process,...
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 818
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta, GA
'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Todd -- Thanks! I am getting the same flared shift in my car I did before my last service. I was being lazy, and trusting them to do it. I finally checked the paperwork and yep, 4 quarts. I guess I am finally going to do this myself. 183K, and they have done 4 quarts each time. Guess it is time to do it right.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,152
Likes: 60
From: NJ, NYC
Something Slow
I just happen to remove my Tranny Control Unit this morning to sent it off to get it tune by euro charged.. and notice the wire harness was oily, the TCU wasn't oily... guess I caught it just in time. I will replace the O-Rings and plug with 2035400253 hopefully replacing it will solve the problem.
glad I caught this early..
very good information here.. thanks guys
thanks again guys
glad I caught this early..
very good information here.. thanks guys
thanks again guys
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Seaford, Delawhere
2002 C240
Replacing my fluid as I type and I've got a quick question. The tranny filter, does is hang little where the slit is in the back or is it suppose to be flush? The front part where it goes into the tranny I feel and hear it click but when i let go of it, the back part kind of sags. Is this suppose to happen or should I be pushing it in a little bit farther? Thanks a lot.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Mine didn't "sag". If the o-ring is binding, rub a bit of fluid to lube it up, then it should push firmly all the way up into the tube. If you look in the tube it's just a tube with stops on the top ... not really much there so I don't think there is anything to damage. But the filter shouldn't be loose.
Did you get a Mercedes brand filter or aftermarket?
Did you get a Mercedes brand filter or aftermarket?
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Seaford, Delawhere
2002 C240
Its not like a serious sag. Just when I put the filter in and hear the click, I let go. when I let go, the back where the little plastic slit goes into the tranny, it doesnt stay in there. It falls down.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Hmmm ... I wonder if that tab is supposed to bind a bit to hold it in. I thought mine held.
Maybe you should try the opposite of what I just recommended to you -- take off the filter and wipe down the o-ring and tube so there is friction, then try reasembling.
I don't know if the filter rests on the bottom of the pan or is suspended slightly above it. Once the tranny is sucking fluid it should pull the filter up into the tube, but if the filter rests on the pan bottom to begin with I don't know if that could cause problems. Kinda like trying to suck soda through a straw when the straw is resting on the bottom of your paper cup ... it impedes the flow quite a bit.
Since this is something you do once in a great while, if you are not comfortable with the fit I suggest you take this filter down to the nearest Mercedes dealership, compare it to an MB one. and buy the MB filter if it looks any better. For an MSRP of $16, it may be worth peace of mind.
Maybe you should try the opposite of what I just recommended to you -- take off the filter and wipe down the o-ring and tube so there is friction, then try reasembling.
I don't know if the filter rests on the bottom of the pan or is suspended slightly above it. Once the tranny is sucking fluid it should pull the filter up into the tube, but if the filter rests on the pan bottom to begin with I don't know if that could cause problems. Kinda like trying to suck soda through a straw when the straw is resting on the bottom of your paper cup ... it impedes the flow quite a bit.
Since this is something you do once in a great while, if you are not comfortable with the fit I suggest you take this filter down to the nearest Mercedes dealership, compare it to an MB one. and buy the MB filter if it looks any better. For an MSRP of $16, it may be worth peace of mind.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Seaford, Delawhere
2002 C240
Well Ive got like 6 of these filter kits (amazon sent more than they were suppose to) and I just tried it out as well as the old one and it seems thats how they sit. Its not a huge sag just a little bit. Thanks for your help man.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Seaford, Delawhere
2002 C240
Exactly how my is too. Once it snaps into place its not falling out so it looks good to me. Just finish everything and car seems to be fine. Shifting well too so looks like Im in good shape. Thanks again buddy.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Coon Rapids MN
2005 C240
Well I have been gathering the supplies to do a trans filter replacement and flush.
I have the
Filter
harness connector
fluid
and gasket
but I can't find the o-rings for the cooler.
I have a 2005 C240 4matic what is the part number for this car?
dealer was less then helpful on the phone and wanted me to bring the car in for service.
I have the
Filter
harness connector
fluid
and gasket
but I can't find the o-rings for the cooler.
I have a 2005 C240 4matic what is the part number for this car?
dealer was less then helpful on the phone and wanted me to bring the car in for service.
