DIY differential (diff) oil




I finally found a shop that sold the 14mm hex socket,
Proto brand, for 22 + tax.
Oil was $12. I used Castrol GL-5 Hypoid
Just regular gear oil of the correct variety.
Considering the maint. interval is 100K miles, it's unlikely
any real benefit would be gained in the diff from synth.
My oil was black black black!
The guy who was considering doing it at 60K is probably wise.
I did put my car on ramps, and likely I didn't get every drop of the old oil.
But wtf. It's done. I used some teflon tape on the threads...plumbers tape.
Also a bit of a kluge, but again. wtf. Not likely it'll make any difference.
Didn't see any thread sealant on there in the 1st place.
All total, didn't take long. Just the setup and clean up.
Soak the bottles in a bucket of hot water, 1st making sure they're sealed real good. It makes it easier to pump.
1 tip though, as someone suggested loosen the fill plug 1st so you know it will come out. And leave it out when you drain or the oil coming out will
glug glug glug and make a mess....minor lesson learned.
Also, if you are smart, you will get bottles the oil pump can screw right into, rather than having to use a knife to cut the tops off the long style bottles.
Capacity is 1.2 quarts, which is 38.4 oz.
I think I measured closer to 40 oz to account for the oil that doesn't get sucked out of the container.
I used a plastic cup to measure out the extra 8 oz, using a measuring cup
of water, and marking the spot on the plastic cup so I wouldn't have to dirty up my kitchen stuff and toss the cup. Wiped it out real good to get rid of the water.
Then poured it into the container i'd already cut.
Not rocket science, but maybe it'll help someone.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Apr 15, 2008 at 09:45 PM.
Mine came out smelling something awful. Know that sperm whale oil was eliminated years ago as an extreme pressure/anti-wear additive, but its replacement is NASTY.
It's best to wear old clothes (you'll never wear again!) while doing the task.




"It smells like Victory"
hehe yeh, and when I failed to completely remove the fill plug (loosened)
and it was glug glugging everywhere, it got in my hair, and was splashing all over, as I desperately grabbed for the fill plug, which loose, but which meant getting in close to reach it...
he he...
Really it was no biggie. Such an easy job. Using shorter bottles would make it even easier. My biggest concern was not having the full bottle fall over and make a mess, and making sure the tube stayed in the fill hole on the diff, which since my pump is about 20 years old, the tube is stiff as hell.
Here's a list of the approved diff lubes, though the specific Castrol isn't listed...I was told by the dealer, any GL5 Hypoid is fine, and Castrol makes good stuff.
I'm not sure if this list is also for the manual transmission.
Actually the only oil on that list thats sold in the US is Valvoline.
Reading the spec on the Catrol is appears to be the same stuff sold overseas, states high pressure etc.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Apr 16, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
diff diy
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...il-change.html
pretty much the same procedure on most models.This diy has pictures to help.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...fluid-tip.html
ohlordnote the correction to 50nm for both plugs
any good thread sealent will do.I would not use tape since you will not get an accurate torque reading.
Last edited by ohlord; Apr 17, 2008 at 08:51 AM.
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Sooooo good.On that note, you definitely don't wanna food from SE Asia. Or hot dogs for that matter.
i'll still eat it now, but I don't like it near as much as I used to.All of that- yet one of my favorite foods is sushi. Go figure....
Permatex says it cures in 24hrs but 1 or 2 should be just fine.I used Redline 75w90 Synthetic.
I just hit 100k and the oil was nasty.
and can i just get some thread sealant at home depot? also i saw another diy like this that said to use a torque wrench to close it at 50nm... true?




and can i just get some thread sealant at home depot? also i saw another diy like this that said to use a torque wrench to close it at 50nm... true?Call Redline before you pour the wrong crap in.;
They have a tech dept. and they will tell you what is the right stuff for your car or not.
Saved my butt a couple times.




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