15mm front and 20mm rear is what I'd do. That'll make it +22 front and +17rear but since the rear its also 18x8 you have a little more room in the rear for a lower offset. You'll need longer lug bolts to accommodate the wheels and spacers.

Thank you both for your replies, what size bolts would i require?

You'll have to measure. Take your stock lug bolt and measure its length, the threaded shaft part, then put it in the stock wheel and measure how much sticks out the back side. Then use the same lug and place it in the new wheel and see how much it sticks out. Then subtract or add how much you need for it to stick out the same amount as it does on the OEM wheel. That'll give you the basic length of the lug you need. Then add the length of the size spacer you'll get to the total of the new lug length and that'll give you the final length you need with the spacer. Measure in mm

If aftermarket rims or MB rims not originally for your car, then you'll probably also need to account for the difference in bolt seat size/shape,.... ie cone seat or our R12 ball seat.

Hi, I have a question for the expert wheel...people.
I remember when my mom got my c240 from CarMax back in 2004, and it had these rims on it(or something extremely similar to it) but the finish was chrome.

What I was wondering is if those ever were a stock "option" for an '02 c240, or if they came from another Mercedes...or what.
They were replaced in 2007 because she hit a pot hole and ruined both of the right side rims and tires(from what I remember those 5 1/2 years ago, 1 of the rims was completely flat for a good 4 inches, and the other had a crack shot down to the lug.

those are the AMG/OZ Aeros, they are not an option for our cars. They came on models like the older SLs if I remember right. they came in different styles, I had the Aeros two which was a 3 piece design. The bad thing with Aeros were that they were know to crack at the mounting lug point.

Did hers look like these

Trying to bring back my interest in this car again.

I was told before.. It's not beneficial to drive on aftermarket 17" wheels huh

Found the old set i was looking at before, 17x8 et 45 front 17x9 et 42 rear bbs lm with fresh tires for $1200.

Can't go wrong right? Would it work? I always wanted some LMs during my w203 life :p

You'd need to run 10mm spacers to fit... Personally I would do 20mm all around and have a nice flush look with the body. That's me though

Gotta love that flush look! Personally I'm a bit worried that it might look weird since it's small.

What would I need to do for these CCWs

18x9.5+22 (3.5" Lip with Low Disk Face) with 225/40/18 Nankang NSII
18x8.5+22 (2.5" Lip with Mid Disk Face) with 205/40/18 Nankang NSI


I thought it would go well with blue/silver + mercedes blueish tint windows.

Would I have to roll the fenders a lot?

You can use: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Some quick assumptions:

Rear:
w203s run 9.5 et 35 and 255 w/o an issue.

Front:
springs/struts: w203s run 8.5 et 35 w/ 225/235
coilovers: w203s run 8.5 et 27-28 w/ 225/235

Looking at those ccws and tires, I think they would work w/ some camber in the rear. You might need a spacer up front to clear brakes, but with the 205/40s up front, you'll have plenty of space to space out if needed.

Those sound like the perfect sizes with a nice roll.

Yea, that was them, but im pretty sure it had the /// next to them(not that its a big deal, just thinking from memory)

Thanks for the info. I was always curious after never seeing those on a w203.

Thanks for the replies guys.

It's just that I don't have enough spacers to play around with. Was hoping to buy what I need to get a flushed stance.

But I'm sure that's not possible, going to be trial and error. Hopefully the front doesn't require spacers bigger than 10mm!

You don't need to trial and error, use the offset calculator and measure with a ruler when you get your wheels.

Ok guys heres the issue with CCWs on post facelifted models with the larger calipers. No matter the offset you'll need spacers, point blank. the offset calculator isnt going to help in this matter no matter how low the offest. With 3 piece wheels the wheels are constructed using the face (which is usually built the same way, no concave and such). The offset is built by the inner and outter barrel sizes. Thats why on my cars that are pictured with CCWs usually give you the lip size not the offset.

With that said since CCWs faces dont have a lot of backspace like other wheels, you'll need at least a 8-10mm spacer for it to clear the caliper. I know this personally. I ordered 18x9 +25 and 18x10+20 and the front still didnt clear. so I have a 10mm in front and to give it an even look in back i put a 5mm in back. so I'm running at +15 all around. Plus you'll have to do quite a bit a of fender rolling, pulling, and grinding. Since they are 1/2" shorter in length then mine you'll probably not have to do as much as I did, but you'll need a camber kit in rear for sure because you'll have to do a little bit of negative to get it tuck under the fender without rubbing anything especially the bumper tabs. But that depends if you're going to lower the car too. If not then with the stretched tires you'll be fine riding at stock height with maybe just rolling the fender.

The main issue with lowering on low offset and wider wheels and tires on our cars is the bumper tabs eating at the wheels. Tru and I have had to grind down our bumper tabs for the rear bumper and then the impact tab by the rear doors.

Continuing with this theme:

Brand: Sport Edition (ASA)
Model: ST4 - staggered 19x8.5 / 19x9.5
Color: Silver w/ polished lip
Tires: Continental ExtremeContact DWS 235/35 and 265/30
Offsets: 32 front, 36 rear
Suspension: OEM Sport




Please disregard the temporary lack of center caps...

This is the rear for my CLK 19x10-0 A disk

Very nice. I'm about to bump my ccw rear to 10.5" in back.

Post pics when done

I will.

Current daily 19x9.5 squared setup. Still need to install the stud conversion, fender roll and fit the front and rear wheels.



and another picture of the summer setup.

You guys think 17x10 offset 15 is impossible for the rears?
It's with a 17.8.5 offset 20 for fronts.

I just want to think about that setup because its a 3" step lip for fronts and 4" for rear. But I might just go 18x8 et 35 and 18x9 et 40

I think I have a misunderstanding of how offsets work. Even though we say 25 20 is probably the lowest offset we can go. We would still need to add spacers and adding +10 + makes it into +10 or +15 offset.

The higher the offset # the less lip you have and the more the face is to the outside. 0 offset is in the middle of the wheel.

Womp womp. I'll just play it safe. Thanks :P

I'm running 18x10 +15 and it required a lot of pulling to not rub and grind.

I've been sitting on my bald stocks for awhile. I found a deal on craigslist with new bbs lm reps on brand new hankook ventus v4 215/35/18 (or 215/40/18) for $600. I just decided to jump on it.

The tires alone are like $100ish a pop. So I thought i'd decided to buy it while I look for some authentic wheels.

All these bbs lm reps on this thread were 18x8.5 et 35 18x9.5 et 40 or 19x8.5 et 35 19x9.5 et 40. For these specs we should use 10mm in the front and 15mm in the rear so it'll be flush with no rub.

With my specs, 18x8 et 35 and 18x9 et 40. Should I still go with the 10mm up front and 15mm in the rear? Or since it's .5 less, I can do 5mm front and 10mm rear?

I'm planning to finally dump my h&r coilovers in the front to the lowest.