tberry

Okay so some of u guys know I had my Kleemann pulley kit installed about a month ago. I finally got it dynoed today and tried to make sure the environment variables are pretty much identical. The ambient temp was about 70F, sea level: Houston, TX, gas 1/8 tank of 93 octane with full spare in trunk. The vehicle is a 2002 C230k coupe auto with 235/40/17s. Last time the stock dyno yield 165hp and 178ft/lb of torque with A/F ratio 12.6:1 at approx 5500rpm. With the pulley kit the dyno showed a 185hp and 200ft/lb torque with A/F ration 13.9:1 at 5500 rpm meaning a total gain of 20hp and 22ft/lb torque. I calculated that the drivetrain loss with auto was about 15% meaning at crank with pulley I'm putting out about 215hp and 230ft/lb of torque. I'm quite happy with the results and driveability has not been changed noticeably. I talked to the shop guys and they believe that more fuel may yield more hp (as apposed to what some have stated on this forum) so I will try to convince my dealer to change fuel to stage II and run it next time with 105 unleaded gas (hey every little bit helps right :-). As soon as I get a hold of a decent scanner I will scan in the dyno graphs. Also, although my car is a lease I will be looking into an intercooler kit that will not require to modify/change the front bumper and preferable will fit stock piping/plumbing/brackets etc.

Lucas

Stage II will for sure help to run a little richer, but it will give you
zero HP.

The gas might give you a HP or 3.

renncpe

You can not back into drive train loss a 18 to 20 % loss in more accurate. 165 would net 194 to the crank at 118 %. The renntech intercooler does'nt require any mods to the bunper or mounts, I would not worry about that. We have found that there are cases c230k's that have the a 20 deg cam error mine was one. Stock I only had 157 rwhp the cams being one tooth off = an 20% error. If your coupe is performing under the low 160's rwhp I would have the dealer check it out, it would be a warrenty issue. Complane of a drop off in power in the middle to high rpm range. And sugest that the cam timeing might be checked.

Randy

Enze6997

I am no benz expert but couldnt you get some like 80cc injectors or something and just blast the motoro with fuel?

renncpe

The MB software is very good it will adjust the cycle time of the larger injectors, I think that long term the chip mods will net a better resolute. I have just had mine chiped by Renntech, they moved the rpm gate by 500 rmp's, changed the maps and moved the v-max to 149 mph. The car is runing much stronger now.

Randy

tberry

Randy how much is the chip and how difficult to install? thanks.

renncpe

You can do the work at home for the install. You will fedex the ecy to Rentech they do the mods and fedex it back it's less than 10 min to remove the ecu. The newest software has only been mounted a week. We should have a groupe buy in the near future, the prices will be released some time in the 2 weeks. I will let you know when it is available.

Randy

tberry

165 divided by 194 is 0.85 meaning its 85% of 194hp which translate to about 15% loss from advertised hp to the wheel no?

renncpe

That is what I ment you can't back into the number. 165x 115% is only 189 HP. The loss is a constant not a % of the gain. Car and Driver has writen the loss from the drive train can be as high as 22%, in an auotmatic trans car.

Randy

BrabusCClass

Randy is right, your drive train loss should be around 20-23%.

Buellwinkle

Why did you only go to 5,500 rpm, is that a limitation of the auto trans? I did my dyno to 6,200 rpm which is where the rev limiter kicks in. You'll see at least another 5hp or so as you approach 6,000 rpm. Actually between 5,500 and 6,000 is will also get a little richer too. Your drive train loss of 15% is fine for a manual tranny car but two low for a auto, should be closer to 18%.

levelr123g

also if the engine is not detonating now then adding higher octane fuel will net you nothing.

Lucas

If the speedo starts to count on the dyno, the ECU has registrated a fault, and will cut off at 5500 rpm.

Stop the engine, take out the key and restart, then the car can be driven 2-3 minutes on the dyno, then it will happen all over again.

So try again.

Buellwinkle

It may also pay to put the car in "Dyno Mode". Don't remember the sequence of events to make this happen but it's not difficult, just search the forum. Also you may get different results in Winter mode as the tranny starts in 2nd. On manual tranny cars it's usually done in 3rd or 4th gear and this varies from dyno to dyno.

renncpe

I think he meant that it peaked at 5500 rpm not that it was limited to 5500 rpm.

Randy

tberry

i tried to do the 'dyno' mode but when i do the + or - it didnt really idicate anything that it worked (i see the software version and all that). And also, after the dyno mode do i still have to press ESP to 'off' so the little triangle symbol shows up. The dyno was do to the redline, i was talking about the a/f ratio seems to be most lean at about 5500rpm (and you're right buellwinkle later it got richer). I just took the car for the heck of seeing how it does under 'normal' condition. To optimize I may go ahead and get 105 oct gas, maybe stage II fuel (if dealer lets me), then take all possible weight out (I think there's a good 25-30lbs in there), wash car clean of any dirt/grimes (u know like in Gran Turismo where u get about 2-3hp after washing car ). I'm hoping to hit 190hp and 205 ft/lb torque....after intercooler upgrade it'll be a healthy 200+hp car finally... $$$$

BlackC230Coupe

someone that knows about a/f ratios, can u please tell me if 13.9:1 is high for this car? i know nothing about it, i just dont want it to be to dangerous for my car when my pulley gets installed (hopefuly today). espesually since my dealer is not changing my fuel settings.

Lucas

It's slightly to the lean side, but absolutely not dangerous.

You can drive that car with full throttle from today untill next Christmas, without any problems.

OneFastBenz

Check into a BEC intercooler, requires no bumper mod, and comes with shrouding to force the air into the intercooler.

Brandon @ Kleemann

As I have been saying here for months: a 13.9:1 A/F is no problem for a modern engine (particularly this version of the M111 engine). In the old days of very high CR, two valve, non-computer controlled engines a 12:1 ratio gave the best power with no regard for emissions (this is a sweeping generalization and not gospel).

The idea is that its safer to be rich than lean if you have NO IDEA what the A/F is or any ability to monitor motor function.

Many posters here have set to Stage II and NO POWER gain. If having a 12:1 A/F some how makes you feel better, then by all means set to Stage II (enjoy the reductuion in economy as well).

tberry

Kleemann,

Thanks for the reply. I dont really care to change the fuel setting (or go through that hassle with the dealer) if the car is in no danger (I only plan to keep this car about 3 more years). I also understand you are developing some sort of fuel regulator for C230k 2.3L coupe as well as a screw type superchgr. I also read the article in Benzo (got my first issue) about you guys. Good to know I'm buying from a company with heritege and history

Buellwinkle

I have mine set to stage II and get better or same gas mileage as before. When I had it set to stage III/91 octane I got significantly higher mileage up to about 37-38mpg at 72mph but at a 17hp loss. This may come in handy as problems in the middle east and Venzuala escalate.

DCX Engineer

I thought Kleemann was recommending Stage II or Stage III for pulley users.

Buellwinkle

Brandon (Kleemann) and Randy (Renncpe) both recommended Stage II a few months ago. I don't know if anyone has done before/after dynos with stage II to prove either way if it provide more/less power, any changes in a/f ratio.

levelr123g

dyno chart
dyno chart
dyno chart