My Key is not working well but its battery is not out? need help thx
Any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Alex




I ordered batteries on Amazon.com for both keys for like 5 bucks including shipping.
So I find it strange that new batteries help.
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If you were referring to my post then you're just not making sense, because I was trying to help eliminate the idea that it could be a low battery issue.




Hey, your all of 14 posts doesn't entitle you to start telling people what they should do and not do around here.
Chill out, or maybe find a different forum that meets your specific needs,
Newb!
Looking through your posts I've yet to see you solve any problems for anyone.As far as respect, I have no respect for self anointed authorities on forum behavior, who
have no history of doing didly squat for anyone in said forum.
And so far no one has even insulted you....yet. Though I can see it coming like a trainwreck.
Take your crappy attitude elsewhere.
If the problem is not with the key, than it is likely with the EIS.
An expensive part, which needs to be replaced by a qualified mechanic with a Star system. But this guy hasn't even replaced the batteries yet.
And this has been discussed, but it's definitely not DIY if it's the EIS. (electronic ignition switch)
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Jan 19, 2009 at 03:13 PM.




So I find it strange that new batteries help.
UNLESS according to my sources (local shop), you disconnect the battery with the key in the ignition. In that situation the 2 codes can get out of sequence with each other and the only fix it to replace the EIS, according to him.
The new EIS comes with codes from MB that are entered into Star diag, and the whole thing is by VIN #.
UNLESS according to my sources (local shop), you disconnect the battery with the key in the ignition. In that situation the 2 codes can get out of sequence with each other and the only fix it to replace the EIS, according to him.
The new EIS comes with codes from MB that are entered into Star diag, and the whole thing is by VIN #.
He must be very insecure 
Anyway, that seems to be quite a problem if that's accurate. I have to remember that!! You'd think MB would have designed the system to prevent such a possibility. Then again, maybe not...
Last edited by acr2001; Jan 19, 2009 at 07:06 PM.





I insult your wristwatch, fart in your general direction, and cough on
your shoes you
silly english speaking person!
I've had the key in and the battery disconnected and nothing bad happened.
But according to my guy, it can.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Jan 19, 2009 at 09:59 PM.

although your responses wreak with the smell of someone with a bland character I'm sure that is only your representative. you probably keep it all in then take it out on someone who doesnt deserve it. act like you have a pair. nah, I'm just kidding. it has been a pleasure and contrary to belief with your vast wisdom and over 2500 posts you couldnt resolve this issue with a single post. it took a real forum fanatic to do the job. and btw, with his little c230 he might decide not to show such a crappy car as his tag. sedans only rule the c class.
just playin. you girls play nice. and good night gentlemen.



1. Radio frequency using self contained batteries. This allows you to open the car from some distance. As the batteries age, you must move closer to the car because the RF signal becomes weak.
2. Infrared light beam operated by batteries. This allows you to roll up the windows and close the sunroof by pointing the red disk on the end of the key toward a small window in the driver's door handle. This will also allow you to roll down the windows and open the sunroof. You must press and hold the proper button on the key for this to occur. This only works when you are close and can see in the car. You don't want to close the window on your Jack Russel.
3. Infrared light beam operated by induced AC voltage from the primary in the EIS (electronic ignition system) to the secondary in the key. This allows you to start the car if the key batteries are dead or gone. The light source in the key is a LED (light emitting diode.) This LED emits light that is not visible to the human eye. It is visible to the photo diode in the EIS and door handle. You can check the relative amount of light by pointing the key at your Nightshot video camera, or many digital still cameras.
The original posters problem might be just a layer of dirt or excessive scratches on the window of the key. Clean the end of the key with a Q-tip dipped in Windex, as well as the red disk in the car's EIS. Don't be sloppy and make it so wet that the dirt is washed into the EIS, just damp enough to remove the layer of dirt that collects there. For scratches, buffing with a soft cloth is about as far as you should go.
For the people who notice that low temperatures cause hard starting, a glance at the SLI (starting, lighting, & ignition) battery in the car is in order. Checking the battery voltage is not the definitive test for a battery, but it is a start, and it can be read by the front CAN and displayed in the MFD (multi-function display.) The battery voltage decreases with temperature, so a marginal battery might not work when it's too cold to lick an outdoor pump handle. You should have the battery checked by a tech with one of these:
http://www.midtronics.com/home/produ...%20Series.aspx
If you call roadside, and a battery is at fault they will change it and charge only for the battery, service is complementary.

May I recommend that you consult this thread as well.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...d-weather.html
The two are running in parallel on a very similar issue on almost identical vehicles of similar vintage.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 20, 2009 at 09:12 AM. Reason: typo


But back on topic. Whats the average range some of you get with your key and has anyone upgraded to the newer key to resolve the problem?





buh-bye marty, you WILL be banned at this rate.