Are there kompressors on a C240?
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C240
Are there kompressors on a C240?
I know the c230 does, and I just made the plunge on a c240. I'm not looking for a drag-strip car, just something that looks better than your average Camry, and something that will last a bit. I've heard of superchargers going out, blown, etc and I'm afraid that the c240 may be retired early due to this? I haven't got a clue as to if it was abused or not. Bought from a Mercedes-Benz dealer, though..
While we're at it. Was it a good deal?
2002 C240. Leather interior, perfect exterior, clean record, new tires. $16,000 OTD including tax & tag, and a two year extended warranty.
While we're at it. Was it a good deal?
2002 C240. Leather interior, perfect exterior, clean record, new tires. $16,000 OTD including tax & tag, and a two year extended warranty.
#2
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No compressors. Watch 2002 cars - the early ones could be troublesome. V6s gave less trouble than 4s - proven drivetrain in other models.
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Sorry - you misunderstand. - Entire 240 engine, transmission etc. had been used in older models & is bullet proof. Early 2000, 2001, 2002 W203 cars gave numerous electronics & other body , trim & suspension bush niggles. Especially in the US with some of them being built in Brazil. The W203 is the first car that Merc computer simulated endurance testing instead of doing it on the road - this was a mistake. You probably find that the previous owner has had them all sorted. By 2003 these had all been sorted & face lifted cars from mid 2004 were very good. My 240 (SA build) has been a faultless car. 2 castor bushes replaced in the front suspension under warranty/service plan. They were a known weakness & have been redesigned & 1, 5 cent washer that was weeping on the transmission plug - That's it in 6 years. - Great car.
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No probs - the good folk on this forum are very helpful - get reading - you can learn a lot & see the stickies at the front of the forum. You are lucky you did not buy an early 4 cyl with the M271 engine. They were a pain. Mostly now sorted.
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I drove a fairly basic (non-GPS) 2002 V6 C240 for approximately 117,000 miles in 7 years before I sold it a couple months ago.
In retrospect, it was a good "reliable" car (after the first few years). The first few years were a hassle since I had various "minor" problems with the vehicle that I had to take it into the dealership for warranty or recall work (4 wiring harnesses to light assemblies shorting out, the right-front strut assembly squeeking, AC compressor voltage problem, sagging insulation rubbing drive shaft, driver window switch inoperable, etc). But after the first few years (and the initial warranty/recall work was all completed), the number of trips to the dealership decreased significantly.
The only non-warranty/recall work I had done on the vehicle is for Service A & B (after factory warranty ran out), sparkplugs & wiring, brakes & rotors, tires, and other wear-and-tear items. I'd say that after factory warranty, yearly expenses on this vehicle averaged $600-$800 per year (including Service A or B, sparkplugs & wiring, brakes & rotors, and other wear-and-tear items EXCLUDING tires)... years where you have to replace tires will be more than $800.
In retrospect, it was a good "reliable" car (after the first few years). The first few years were a hassle since I had various "minor" problems with the vehicle that I had to take it into the dealership for warranty or recall work (4 wiring harnesses to light assemblies shorting out, the right-front strut assembly squeeking, AC compressor voltage problem, sagging insulation rubbing drive shaft, driver window switch inoperable, etc). But after the first few years (and the initial warranty/recall work was all completed), the number of trips to the dealership decreased significantly.
The only non-warranty/recall work I had done on the vehicle is for Service A & B (after factory warranty ran out), sparkplugs & wiring, brakes & rotors, tires, and other wear-and-tear items. I'd say that after factory warranty, yearly expenses on this vehicle averaged $600-$800 per year (including Service A or B, sparkplugs & wiring, brakes & rotors, and other wear-and-tear items EXCLUDING tires)... years where you have to replace tires will be more than $800.
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C240
Thanks everyone. At 7 or 8 years old and 56k miles, I really hope the kinks have been worked out in majority by the last owner. The dealership did just mount some new tires on, Im glad I'll be set for some time!
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Figuring 15,000 miles a year on average, a 2002 car should be looking at 105,000 or so.
Last edited by LILBENZ230; 08-22-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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C240
I think I've forgotten to mention I took this off of a MB dealer, and the price includes a new extended 2yr warrnty. Oh well, my loss. Private party is best for used!
But it's not a total loss! For those of you who have the time-
We'd settled on the ML for my mother and went shopping to the last MB dealer in our area with no intention of getting me a C-class. After a bit, our salesman tracked down an ML with our exact requested packages, color, etc, but could not discount it because it was 2010. As I was looking for my first car, I casually asked, to see if I could get him to change his mind, "How about if you could give a better price for my mother, I'll take a used C-class off of your hands".
Thus we ended up with the C240 stated above, an ML with all that we wanted discounted a grand, and the best possible price we could get for my mother's '06 RX330. ("Excellent" price on KBB)
Anyway, I was wondering if this is correct. I've learned not to disconnect the battery unless a professional is doing it. Also, to not install a turbocharger or supercharger because the tranny is an auto?
Thanks again everyone!
But it's not a total loss! For those of you who have the time-
We'd settled on the ML for my mother and went shopping to the last MB dealer in our area with no intention of getting me a C-class. After a bit, our salesman tracked down an ML with our exact requested packages, color, etc, but could not discount it because it was 2010. As I was looking for my first car, I casually asked, to see if I could get him to change his mind, "How about if you could give a better price for my mother, I'll take a used C-class off of your hands".
Thus we ended up with the C240 stated above, an ML with all that we wanted discounted a grand, and the best possible price we could get for my mother's '06 RX330. ("Excellent" price on KBB)
Anyway, I was wondering if this is correct. I've learned not to disconnect the battery unless a professional is doing it. Also, to not install a turbocharger or supercharger because the tranny is an auto?
Thanks again everyone!
Last edited by laneshift; 08-22-2009 at 11:06 PM. Reason: typo
#16
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"How about if you could give a better price for my mother, I'll take a used C-class off of your hands".
Thus we ended up with the C240 stated above, an ML with all that we wanted discounted a grand, and the best possible price we could get for my mother's '06 RX330. ("Excellent" price on KBB)
Thus we ended up with the C240 stated above, an ML with all that we wanted discounted a grand, and the best possible price we could get for my mother's '06 RX330. ("Excellent" price on KBB)
Speaking of it not being a "total loss" - well, you better hope not. As much as you overpaid you're in the hole whether you bought GAP insurance or not. GAP will usually pay, at most, 125% of vehicle value at the time of the loss (nevermind what they say about "up to $50,000!"). 125% of $11,600 = $14,500. So if you total it in three months, depending on your finance terms, you could be in a serious predicament even if you bought GAP protection.
As you see from the "Drives" field on my account, I have a 2009 BMW 135i. Bought it in April in Atlanta and I had special requirements. They had to ship it from Salem, NC. I paid $300 over invoice. A $42,100 sticker and I paid $38,550. So I can't figure how any dealership could look you in the face and tell you they can't discount a gas-guzzling SUV right now.
Damn dealerships. I take pleasure in buying cars because I know the game and the tricks and I can call them out and make them squirm!
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white and whiter
almost $39k for the 1-series. damnnnnn... paid $4k less for the C350.
anyway, usually I don't like to comment on price on how much ppl paid their car for, but $16k OTD for a 2002 C240 is bogus. BUT you said you also purchased the 2yr extended warranty. My guess is at least $2.5k out of the $16k you are paying is for that warranty.
without more info I can't really comment more.
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anyway, usually I don't like to comment on price on how much ppl paid their car for, but $16k OTD for a 2002 C240 is bogus. BUT you said you also purchased the 2yr extended warranty. My guess is at least $2.5k out of the $16k you are paying is for that warranty.
without more info I can't really comment more.
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The sticker said 15.5k, but we all know sticker is bogus. Yes, 2 year ext. warranty was about 2.5k. We got that for free- down to 13k. Four new tires and some small extras- maybe 500? Still, for 12.5k, that's horrible. Someone hit me with a bat.
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Frank - I like the W204 but I wanted more power than the C350 could provide. Plus, I had a W203 already and (IMO) it's the better looking body design. I would like a C63 but that's not quite in my price range.. lol. Have you driven a BMW with the N54 twin-turbo? It's great fun, especially with the 6MT and the small size of the 135. Although I'm sure your C32 would dust the 135 quite easily.
Edit: Oh yeah, and the 135i replaced a 2008 G37 coupe. That was $39k, too, bought in late 2007. Talk about a rip off. All the praise the G-coupe gets and it really wasn't worth a damn. It was much more GT than sports car in feel.. to me anyway.
Last edited by LILBENZ230; 08-23-2009 at 06:39 PM.
#21
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135. its quick, light, nible, perfect for the tight fits in the city, nearly everything i look in for a daily car, only wish it could accompany my height though..
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135's are quite the car. I've become friends with a fellow jet skier who tows his jetski behind his 135! Imo it's too nice to even have a trailer hitch to be put on.
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The only downside to the 135 are the run-flat tires and hella brake dust. The car seems to try to be comfortable but the hard run-flats cause it to crash around. Once these are worn out, no more RFTs. I'll take my chances. Mine is a Sport Premium.. Black/black.. 6MT. It has an addictive torque plateau and is a little rocket.
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Do you know if your dealer has a "tuned-down" brake pad? My brother's is250's front wheels were damned near black when they're supposed to be silver. The dealer gave him a "tuned-down" set, less dust, and he doesn't feel much of a difference. Free of charge, too.
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Ceramic pads produce less dust - that's probably what he got. The fact he got it for free is probably an example of that Lexus service. "tuned-down"? No idea what that would mean as far as brake pads go.