Holmes5518

Every EIS is ordered via the dealer and is hard vin coded to the vehicle. It is a theft relevant part, so your only option is the dealership. They won't even order one unless you produce proof of vehicle ownership. An EIS from another vehicle will never work unless you find some electronic wizard who can access the electronic chips to erase VIN coding..But that is highly unlikely.

samaritrey

^+1

babunda

Well, I am a little confused because other people said that it can be done! So what is the CORRECT answer?

tommy

Two of the most knowledgeable people here (Glyn and Moviela) have said that it's possible to do it through a non-dealer. So there is a chance you could find someone to do it that way.

Couple of things: you know that it will work from the dealer, but it will be expensive. Getting it done through a non-dealer is possible, but you don't know the total price (ie, initial problem fix, then any later re-repairs when they possibly don't do it correctly or what they did affects other areas), and are playing russian roulette.

So the real question is, do you feel lucky? I don't like the non-dealer odds, but you make be less risk-averse.

VVF

I think the dealer price is not that bad either...
Considering quotes like $800 for a front brake job and $900 for a MAF

samaritrey

Well at the very least the part has to come from a dealer as it is a security part and they will verify you actually own the car just like when ordering a key.
As for installation it has been said most dealers won't let you leave with the part unless it is installed so if your local dealer will then you can do the work yourself and if you need star work either buy one, go to indy or back to dealer.
But buying a used part like you mentioned won't work unless you feel like hacking into a EIS and doing some microchip soldering which if you knew how to do I figure you would be doing that right now.
Also remember different countries can have different rules.

Holmes5518

This is how it's done, you need the tools, and you need the knowledge. I would be seriously impressed if you find an independent with the knowledge to perform this procedure.

Glyn M Ruck

Russell Ormarod in Cape Town would seriously impress you, as would Stanley Wilkinson.

VVF

I think the problem is, in the US the labor costs to perform this procedure will be jacked super high. And it would probably be comparable to just buying the new EIS.

samaritrey

^+1 as well as Mercedes I am sure would get you shut down really quick for hacking their software.

Glyn M Ruck

Note my comment in post #3 as regards the average man in the street.

https://mbworld.org/forums/3791352-post3.html

babunda

My question was easy. Let me state the fact again. Is it possible to get an EIS with key from a car ( same model and year) that was in accident ( we know the system works because the car was driven) and replaced it in my car? I don't care having to open the door with my mechanical key. If yes, would my old remote key work on the door?

babunda

You make it look dealers don't do re-repairs on car! I know some reputable non dealers shops who can fix MB.

Holmes5518

NO.

babunda

Hello guys,

I was quoted $1600 to replace the EIS & 1 Key on my 03 C240. Is this a reasonable quote? Please advice. Thanks

tommy

Yes.

Glyn M Ruck

This is obviously for EIS & ESL.

The real question is do both require replacement. Dealers are too lazy to diagnose so they replace both. Dumb!

FLA$H

hi, I just wanted to say thank you very much for your post, I had the same problem with my car. When I inserted the key it didn't turn and there was no clicking sound that I usually get but I checked fuse 31 like you said it was a 5 amp located under the hood near the firewall and it was blown out, as soon as I changed it I was able to start the car.

rgarza111

Thank you so much for your fuse suggestions! This morning both my keys did not turn on my 2005 c240. Both remotes unlocked/locked and have good batteries etc.. but would not turn on the vehicle. I recently drove the vehicle
and my battery is less than 2 years old but I tested the battery with a voltmeter anyway to see if something might have drained it. It tested fine so I started checking fuses.

Started with #8 in the trunk, inspected it, installed it again and tried keys with no luck I then read your 31, 52 & 57 suggestion. #31 was on the drivers side compartment. It looked fine so I put it back and keys still did not work. I then went to the engine compartment and tried 52 & 57. All fuses looked OK after inspection. I even tested them with my multimeter. I put them back in and either one of those muse have not been set properly because but both my keys worked after that!! Probably just pure luck but I was dreading the very costly EIS dealer repair.

ColdandAnnoyed

Hi everyone,

I think I'm in the right thread. I have a 2001 MB W203 I bought about 6 months back and as of this evening, it's died. I drove to the gym with no problems but when I was done, I turned the keys in the ignition and every single light in the car went out. The dash is completely black, the interior lights don't turn on, the steering wheel locks up, and the car (automatic) can't be moved from park. The ignition also locks up - it won't let me turn the key anymore. The keys won't even lock the doors by pressing the button, although the red LED light on the key flashes when I press them.
I highly doubt it's the car battery as I put a new one in 2 months ago.

After about an hour (and retrieving my spare key) the car came out of its coma - the lights were back on when I opened the door, the dash lit up. I tried starting the car with the older, spare key (I think this one's battery is shot) and the car immediately locked itself down again when I turned the key - dashboard goes black, no electronics work, wheel is locked, ignition locks up, etc.

So I'm guessing this is the EIS. I've tried looking with my phone camera to see if the infrared in my key is working, but I don't see anything happening when I press the button, so I don't know. I'll check fuses 8, 31, 52, 57 tomorrow as a Hail Mary option but 2021 has been a ****ty year so I'm gonna guess that whatever the most expensive and difficult option to fix is going to be the one causing me grief, unless anyone else here has encountered such an issue and I'm off the mark.

ColdandAnnoyed

To follow up on the above post.
I left my car in a parking lot overnight and returned today. The car was still completely dead - opened the door and no electrics were working, ignition locked, the whole works. Changed fuse 31 and nothing changed, but before I changed the others, I decided to disconnect the positive terminal, wait 10 seconds, and reconnect it. Lo and behold, my car started on the first try after doing that, so I don't know what's going on.