2005 C230 Pad/Rotor Change, Now Problems
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2005 C230 Pad/Rotor Change, Now Problems
I just changed my front pads and rotors (2005, so it is the larger sport rotors and double piston calipers), with things mostly going good....except I started to unscrew those large reverse-torx screws on the calipers thinking that they need to come off. As soon as I started seeing brake fluid pouring out, I knew something was wrong. I quickly buttoned it up and proceeded with the job.
On the test drive, I suspect air in the brakes, as it takes several pumps to get the brakes to work, and 10 seconds later they need to be pumped again to get the brakes to work. Brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, unless I pump them several times. This happens over and over. I suspect I drew air into that one calipers when I loosened the reverse torx screw.
So....do I just need to bleed that brake to get air out, or did I do something more damaging when I loosened those bolts?
Thanks for anyone that has experience or insight!!
On the test drive, I suspect air in the brakes, as it takes several pumps to get the brakes to work, and 10 seconds later they need to be pumped again to get the brakes to work. Brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, unless I pump them several times. This happens over and over. I suspect I drew air into that one calipers when I loosened the reverse torx screw.
So....do I just need to bleed that brake to get air out, or did I do something more damaging when I loosened those bolts?
Thanks for anyone that has experience or insight!!
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I just changed my front pads and rotors (2005, so it is the larger sport rotors and double piston calipers), with things mostly going good....except I started to unscrew those large reverse-torx screws on the calipers thinking that they need to come off. As soon as I started seeing brake fluid pouring out, I knew something was wrong. I quickly buttoned it up and proceeded with the job.
On the test drive, I suspect air in the brakes, as it takes several pumps to get the brakes to work, and 10 seconds later they need to be pumped again to get the brakes to work. Brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, unless I pump them several times. This happens over and over. I suspect I drew air into that one calipers when I loosened the reverse torx screw.
So....do I just need to bleed that brake to get air out, or did I do something more damaging when I loosened those bolts?
Thanks for anyone that has experience or insight!!
On the test drive, I suspect air in the brakes, as it takes several pumps to get the brakes to work, and 10 seconds later they need to be pumped again to get the brakes to work. Brake pedal goes nearly to the floor, unless I pump them several times. This happens over and over. I suspect I drew air into that one calipers when I loosened the reverse torx screw.
So....do I just need to bleed that brake to get air out, or did I do something more damaging when I loosened those bolts?
Thanks for anyone that has experience or insight!!
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
To fix your issue, you need to do a complete brake fluid bleed. Check out this thread for the procedure: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ng-brakes.html
Good Luck.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I just had to bleed that one caliper, used my MityVac, and kept pulling fluid until the only bubbles I was seeing were from the bleeder screw, then took her for a test drive. Evreything's fine again!!
#4
so these are the torx bolts that you DO NOT want to remove then? I kinda wanted to paint my calipers this weekend. Of course those are not my calipers I just took the picture off of google. Those bolts on my calipers are starting to look all rusty so I might just try to clean them out and throw paint on top of them.
![](http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1406/5741185/22167188/397299890.jpg)
![](http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1406/5741185/22167188/397299890.jpg)
#5
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2021 GLC300 4Matic
so these are the torx bolts that you DO NOT want to remove then? I kinda wanted to paint my calipers this weekend. Of course those are not my calipers I just took the picture off of google. Those bolts on my calipers are starting to look all rusty so I might just try to clean them out and throw paint on top of them.
![](http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1406/5741185/22167188/397299890.jpg)
![](http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1406/5741185/22167188/397299890.jpg)
CORRECT! never touch those bolts.
as for cleaning, try a small metal brush and brake cleaner let dry and paint. if you are **** about it you could sand them down a tad for the paint to stick.
#6
nice, Thanks!
Also, do you happen to have pictures of your ride? I kinda wanna see the mods, specially how it sits on the Teins.
Also, do you happen to have pictures of your ride? I kinda wanna see the mods, specially how it sits on the Teins.
#7
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2021 GLC300 4Matic
in this photo rims and Springs where the first mods
![](https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/75746_1715790172878_1181913994_2023379_1551517_n.jpg)
in this photo after 2 years of moding
H&R springs which were removed to put back the Tein for stance, s class tail lights, 2005 facelift, clear corners
![](https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/150069_1716322346182_1181913994_2024116_1632885_n.jpg)
Last edited by hcoronado; 06-17-2011 at 04:55 PM.
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#8
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#10
Member
thats why im paying someone to do it the first time. a mechanic. ill observe and be able to see for the next time... ive been researching all day.. and dont wanna take that approach just yet.. AUX cable, spark plugs lol.. simple
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#11
I screwed up too! Damit
Ok this is my unfortunate first post here so be easy on me. I undid the reverse torx on the back side of the caliper mistaking it for the caliper bolts so I could r&r my rotor.
Anyways I couldn't get a torque speck from the dealer but did a torque test on the other caliper and retorqued the reverse torx to 125ftlbs.
I finished the brakes job on the front only screwing up one caliper where only a couple of oz fluid came out. I havnt bled the brakes yet but took it down the street to see how much of a problem I caused and only takes one foot pump to get full braking power so don't think I got to much air in there.
But my real question here is do you think I should replace the caliper or just bleed the brakes and move on?
Second minor question - a local mechanic says I'm lucky that my brakes didn't explode and said they are always at 60psi. In all the DIY on this forum I do not read any mention of this - I want to know this before I make a decision on finishing my rear brakes.
And this is for my 2007 c230 sport
Yes I'm kook of the day...I need no reminders. Your quick expert responses are apricated. Thanks
Anyways I couldn't get a torque speck from the dealer but did a torque test on the other caliper and retorqued the reverse torx to 125ftlbs.
I finished the brakes job on the front only screwing up one caliper where only a couple of oz fluid came out. I havnt bled the brakes yet but took it down the street to see how much of a problem I caused and only takes one foot pump to get full braking power so don't think I got to much air in there.
But my real question here is do you think I should replace the caliper or just bleed the brakes and move on?
Second minor question - a local mechanic says I'm lucky that my brakes didn't explode and said they are always at 60psi. In all the DIY on this forum I do not read any mention of this - I want to know this before I make a decision on finishing my rear brakes.
And this is for my 2007 c230 sport
Yes I'm kook of the day...I need no reminders. Your quick expert responses are apricated. Thanks
#13
Super Member
Use Motive Products "Power Bleeder" Black Label European Bleeder 0109,... to bleed brakes by yourself,....
No friend's help required,.... save the beer,... for yourself ;P
No friend's help required,.... save the beer,... for yourself ;P
Last edited by SunnyRayToronto; 02-13-2013 at 11:10 PM.