My mistake, my car is a 2003 not 02.

sounds like you have something dead in your car or a spot on your carpet or somewhere inside your car is drenched in liquid.

you could try something like this http://www.atp-inc.com/featured/zeotrap.aspx i used it before coz i smoked a lot in my car and the smell got stuck. worked like a charm.

Noisy purge valve? I just took mine to the dealer because of a tick (I just bought it). They said it was the purge valve and it was normal operation. It is a V8 though, it could just be loud. Have you asked the dealer about your valve?

Mount the purge valve on a piece of rubber.

is the purge valve the black thing in the engine bay on the driver side?

a picture?

my 6cd changer. makes clicking sounds sometimes even when the car is off. o and when u burn a cd it takes for eva for it to read the cd. and the error mesg every time i pick a diff cd.....

My 05s CD Changer has no problem at all with burned CDs.. strange.

I have found with burned discs to use a very slow write speed and it fixes all your issues. also they don't like some brands of cds as well right now i am using tdk and they work great
as for the clicking i have no clue but it should not be clicking

funny u say that. i just started burning at max speed lol. my older cds that where burnd at a low speed work fine. i guess ill just burn them slower.
as for the clicking it seems to be coming from the magz part..

I've had the clicking/ error message issue quite a few times but I attribute it with non-use. I usually just cycle through each CD a few times and the clicking (& errors) go away...

I have two annoying problems that are major hassles to fix...

1) The rear suspension bushings are squeeking. Got them replaced under warranty 4 years ago, but with the same old type of bushing. They're going bad, again. Dealer says there is no campaign for these universally defective MB bushings. I'm not sure I believe them.

2) The headliner is falling down at every corner of the car, especially the width of the car behind the overhead light over the package tray. I don't have a couple days to take it out and re-cement it.

108,000 miles on my 2001 C320. ISSUES!

Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced Crankshaft Position sensor
Replaced Drivers and Passenger door grab handles

Electronic telescoping steering wheel goes in and out but will not move up and down anymore.

Passenger side front window rolls down fine but when rolling up it stops every inch or so on the way up. Figure the motor is going bad, suggestions?

Drivers side mirror won't move using the controls. Have to manually reach out and set the mirror to the correct position. Want to find one from a silver C-Class at a junk yard.

6 disc cd changer won't always be recognized by the stereo. Whenver it happens I have to remove the 6 disc cartridge and put it back in then it works fine.

Passenger side vanity mirror light doesn't work. Bulb is fine.

Annoying rattle/squeak coming from the front passenger seat but only when someone is sitting in it.

Annoying squeak/groaning coming from the back of car when going over large bumps. Had the shocks/springs looked at and was told there were fine.


I would like to get the passenger window, drivers side mirror and steering wheel fixed before I sell the car but I refuse to go to the stealership.

wow my car has 147k and i have had way less issues.
Have you tried re syncing the window?
you don't have to get the correct color mirror the painted part comes right off.
as for the steering wheel i would say the motor is out there is a diy on it somewhere GL.

hi!
you might know or have an idea , i keep getting this stupid message: tail light R gone, substition lamp on. it happens every so often. iv changed bulbs(whicch dont appear blown and look ok) , swapped bulbs,checkd connections, check in engine bay for ground wires being tight...
its a c class, w203, year 2000.
any ideas?

thanks.

The bezel trim around the shifter, I've tried trim tape, gluing the broken plastic tabs, and nothing. Can't find this part anywhere to replace it. Every time I put the car in gear, I have to reseat the bezel, it's the PITA on my car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Mercedes-W203-C220-C230-C280-C350-Auto-Trans-Shift-Indicator-/121077474864?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c30c7a630&vxp=mtr

$137.00??? For a $10 piece of plastic. I don't think so. Anyone have a more cost effective answer?

Saved you almost 30%.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-04-05-Mercedes-C230-C320-coupe-Shifter-cover-shift-trim-05-OEM-/281047527907?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416fbcf1e3&vxp=mtr


Anyway... Unless you can somehow glue it back on, I guess it's time to hit your local salvage yards to see how much a replacement is there.

Final drive is way to low, i'm doing 70 mph and its at 3k rpm's wth!?!?

For me it has been the vibration from the OEM Subwoofer in the drivers rear hatch panel. I took it to dealership numerous times while i was still under warranty and they said there was nothing they could do. I pointed out that it was a bad design because of the way the sub is facing. they said sorry. sooo i took it apart and stuffed it with foam and it helped but still not fully gone. its annoying (and i dont have the Bass setting all the way up)
if you see in this pic, there is a (surprising) tweeter next to the sub. what i did was stuff all the surrounding area under the deck with foam. best i could do until i 86 that sub and go for external

When my bezel broke, I bought a new one.
It lasted 1 year before it broke too...
(I think the problem is the shrinking leather skirt around the shifter pulling too hard on the bezel)

So I grabbed 4 paperclips, a small drill bit and followed C230 Sport Coup's suggestion...

https://mbworld.org/forums/3578676-post8.html

Never a problem again!