W203 C230K Kleeman Header + Tuning Technology Motorsports
#76
Super Moderator
All the data for real-time mpg is being captured (albeit not as accurately a a Pierburg flow meter) to give you your rolling average consumption - far more useful. While living in Aus a few years back I had a Holden Berlina 3.8 V6 as a company car that had real-time l/100Km or mpg. At idle/stationary it gave you litres per hour & then jumped into l/100Km or mpg the minute you were moving. Unless it's heavily damped & thus somewhat inaccurate, it's a pain in the butt. You accelerate hard and it shoots down to 1 mpg then coast & it shoots up to 90 mpg which is useless. I suppose it encourages more economical driving but otherwise it is hopeless.
#77
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2005 C320 Sport, 2010 C300 Sport
Totally agree with Glyn. Our cars have it better than most though. My gf's VW shoots between 5 and 40 at cruising speeds. My boss' X5 has a needle that goes from 0-25+ at idle and for no reason at all.
I'm just glad that my estimaes don't jump around like they have adhd.
I'm just glad that my estimaes don't jump around like they have adhd.
#78
MBWorld Fanatic!
Pre Facelift is the bomb dizzle. They get a digital dipstick while we get a horrible, no use, crap dipstick that isn't precise.
Trey come down to California and I'll do this on your car.
Trey come down to California and I'll do this on your car.
#80
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Another interesting thing is John's says Range but mine says Distance. His says Tank Content but mine says Fuel Level.
I wonder if his instrument cluster is an updated one. I look in Developer Mode and I couldn't find anything that would change these descriptions.
I wonder if his instrument cluster is an updated one. I look in Developer Mode and I couldn't find anything that would change these descriptions.
#82
MBWorld Fanatic!
hmm, I guess year doesn't matter then.
Milkman came over so we can take a look at his car with the STAR. His says the exact same as mine. Maybe it's an 06 thing
We also looked at his car and his was set at Base Value. There is Base Value, 89, 91 and 93. Now i'm wondering what Base Value means. Does this mean lower than 89 . We upped his to 91 and without an adaptation reset he said he felt better RPM and a slight faster RPM increase (same effects that I felt). Also there is NO way to enrich his car (Base Value, Slightly Enrich, Enrich and Lean Out). I thought I saw it on mine but I plugged it in and again I couldn't see the Enriching on my car. I believe what I saw and had pictures were in DAS Simulator Mode.
We played with the Desert Mode and we haven't confirmed if his Fan came on earlier because of the heat we have now in SoCal but he said he didn't notice his Car running cooler because of the Temp guage but the more i'm thinking I believe his car won't run cooler just because the fan turns on quicker.
Thanks for Reading.
Milkman came over so we can take a look at his car with the STAR. His says the exact same as mine. Maybe it's an 06 thing
We also looked at his car and his was set at Base Value. There is Base Value, 89, 91 and 93. Now i'm wondering what Base Value means. Does this mean lower than 89 . We upped his to 91 and without an adaptation reset he said he felt better RPM and a slight faster RPM increase (same effects that I felt). Also there is NO way to enrich his car (Base Value, Slightly Enrich, Enrich and Lean Out). I thought I saw it on mine but I plugged it in and again I couldn't see the Enriching on my car. I believe what I saw and had pictures were in DAS Simulator Mode.
We played with the Desert Mode and we haven't confirmed if his Fan came on earlier because of the heat we have now in SoCal but he said he didn't notice his Car running cooler because of the Temp guage but the more i'm thinking I believe his car won't run cooler just because the fan turns on quicker.
Thanks for Reading.
Last edited by W203E35; 06-06-2010 at 03:00 AM.
#83
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Whatever we're tuning!
We played with the Desert Mode and we haven't confirmed if his Fan came on earlier because of the heat we have now in SoCal but he said he didn't notice his Car running cooler because of the Temp guage but the more i'm thinking I believe his car won't run cooler just because the fan turns on quicker.
Without a lower temp thermostat you will not see a car running cooler according to the temp gauge with the fan coming on sooner. It will keep the car from reaching its previous higher temp than before the fan mod.
Do a lower temp thermostat in conjunction with the fan coming on sooner and it will run cooler.
Keep up the great work MAD PROGRAMMER/MASTER SDS MANIPULATOR!!
#84
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Thanks Bruce, only one problem and it might be a solution rather than a problem.
The m272 I don't think has a traditional Thermostat. It has a "Electrical Assisted Thermostat" . It seems you can control the temperature of the thermostat as well as the fan?
The m272 I don't think has a traditional Thermostat. It has a "Electrical Assisted Thermostat" . It seems you can control the temperature of the thermostat as well as the fan?
#85
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Whatever we're tuning!
I will delve into SDS and see if I can find something on this.
An old trick that we did back in the day is to drill small holes around the top of the t-stat to keep the coolant flowing even when the t-stat is fully closed. I'm not saying it will work with one that is electronically controlled but it should!
#86
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I'll shoot you an email tomorrow.
Thanks,
Erik
#87
MBWorld Fanatic!
Me and Bruce chatted up via PMs and Bruce has been the worthiest Sponsor that I have spoken too (maybe there are more but I haven't spoken to them yet). He has great knowledge about cars and has amazing skills with DAS. Too bad I'm all the way on the other side of the country.
#88
Super Moderator
Karo - all that electro assisted thermostat gubbins is designed to maximise engine efficiency under all engine operating conditions. Benz design goals for M272 were 15% reduction in fuel consumption with stable running over the M112 & to meet upcoming Euro emissions standards which would include fitment of 3 way Cats later in the engine's life cycle in markets where ultra low sulphur fuels were available like Europe. This is the sort of attention to detail that is necessary to meet Euro emissions.
No 3 way Cats are fitted for the US market because your fuel is high sulphur & would produce carcinogenic benzines at the tailpipe with high sulphur fuel & 3 way Cat's. The electro assisted thermostat might not be fitted to US cars - you should check. It is fitted to SA cars.
You guys are looking for power so you don't care about consumption & emissions. If it is fitted to US cars there must be some way of mapping it with STAR - maybe only in developer mode.
No 3 way Cats are fitted for the US market because your fuel is high sulphur & would produce carcinogenic benzines at the tailpipe with high sulphur fuel & 3 way Cat's. The electro assisted thermostat might not be fitted to US cars - you should check. It is fitted to SA cars.
You guys are looking for power so you don't care about consumption & emissions. If it is fitted to US cars there must be some way of mapping it with STAR - maybe only in developer mode.
#89
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glyn, it seems like the US Spec cars have these as well (based on my VIN) I still get instructions to remove it BUT the instructions might still be there regardless.
Both the 203 3.5 and 204 3.5 are confirmed to have this. (204 is the 204's instruction and thermostat is the 203's)
I have looked in Developer Mode but have not noticed anything Thermostat related or even temperature related . I will give it another try again.
There is a desert mode which I was told the fan kicks in earlier. I still don't get this because the fan kicks in with temperature, what would kicking it couple of degrees earlier help in deserts??
What do they have to do with eachother?
Both the 203 3.5 and 204 3.5 are confirmed to have this. (204 is the 204's instruction and thermostat is the 203's)
I have looked in Developer Mode but have not noticed anything Thermostat related or even temperature related . I will give it another try again.
There is a desert mode which I was told the fan kicks in earlier. I still don't get this because the fan kicks in with temperature, what would kicking it couple of degrees earlier help in deserts??
What do they have to do with eachother?
Last edited by W203E35; 06-16-2010 at 10:20 PM.
#90
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Just wanted to update Karo and others.
I just changed the octane setting in my car from "Base Value", to "Minimum 93". I reset adaptations, and also Reset Ethanol values. I have E85 in there now.
Heading out for a test drive will report back later.
Mine also had no settings for fuel correction either.
I just changed the octane setting in my car from "Base Value", to "Minimum 93". I reset adaptations, and also Reset Ethanol values. I have E85 in there now.
Heading out for a test drive will report back later.
Mine also had no settings for fuel correction either.
#91
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W203 2005 C230K SS W166 2016 GLE400 4MATIC
OP Update
Hello OP here. Wow, didnt think a fun mod would cause some controversy. Just wanted to share and keep it fun.
Ok so for some updates. After the Kleeman headers and SDS changes (Not ECU tune), I went and did some self mods. Small but again wanted to keep the drivability on the car but add more fun.
1st up: Exhaust?
I did not want an exhaust. From what Ive read, changing the cat back on this car did not give much gains in the forum posts. Mine is the 2005 C230k sedan so the stock exhaust goes like this:
Manifold-> Primary Cat-> downpipe-> Secondary Cat-> Midpipe-> Muffler
Looking under the car after the Kleeman header, the downpipe goes into an anlge inlet into a secondary ceramic cat. This must be terrible for backpressure as the honeycomb in the secondary cat is straight but the inlet is angled! after this, the midpipe looks 2.5 diameter into the stock muffler. Again, keeping in mind I dont want a loud exhaust I decided to keep the stock midpipe back and concentrate on that secondary cat after the kleeman downpipe.
step 1: i removed the secondary cat. What a terrible mistake! Not only is this angled inlet terrible for backpressure, but apparently this part did most of the silencing of the exhaust. It sounded embarrising to drive honestly. To mitigate this sound, I went with a louvered resonator right after that turn before the flange for midpipe. This replaced the noise cancellation secondary cat did but relieved some of the backpressure. This probably restored some backpressure (compared to a perforated design) but I needed to keep this car sounding stock. That did the trick and I actually like the sound now. Very deep at start up, quieter after a minute warm up. Clearly a better flow. Its pretty agressive at WOT, but almost stock in normal driving and highway cruising. No really noticable gains but obviously better flowing than before.
Now my set up is:
Kleeman Header-> HFCat-> Downpipe-> Resonator-> Midpipe-> Muffler
2nd up: Bored Throttle Body?
I went ahead and got an OEM throttle body and had it bored out. I think the achievement was 2-3mm. Not much but the intake portion of this set up from what I understand, not much to be gained on the intake. the stock cold air box and enourmous cone filter is enough for the boost application here. I decided to go with the throttle body because the access to having it bored out was easy enough for me. Pics below. The idea here was to free up restriction because of the tiny TB of a supercharged car.
The drive here was awesome. Immediate Throttle response. At highway driving car downshifts much faster than before. One thing I noticed. WOT, the car revved to 6200RPM. Redline is 6000RPM and I do not recall it doing this before.
Question, is this possible?
As usual pics below. These two mods no way matched the feel after the Kleeman Header. I think the only other possible mod for this car is going to be Pulley/ECU tune. Now only if Corey gives me a deal.
F/S stock M271 Throttle Body 35k miles!
Ok so for some updates. After the Kleeman headers and SDS changes (Not ECU tune), I went and did some self mods. Small but again wanted to keep the drivability on the car but add more fun.
1st up: Exhaust?
I did not want an exhaust. From what Ive read, changing the cat back on this car did not give much gains in the forum posts. Mine is the 2005 C230k sedan so the stock exhaust goes like this:
Manifold-> Primary Cat-> downpipe-> Secondary Cat-> Midpipe-> Muffler
Looking under the car after the Kleeman header, the downpipe goes into an anlge inlet into a secondary ceramic cat. This must be terrible for backpressure as the honeycomb in the secondary cat is straight but the inlet is angled! after this, the midpipe looks 2.5 diameter into the stock muffler. Again, keeping in mind I dont want a loud exhaust I decided to keep the stock midpipe back and concentrate on that secondary cat after the kleeman downpipe.
step 1: i removed the secondary cat. What a terrible mistake! Not only is this angled inlet terrible for backpressure, but apparently this part did most of the silencing of the exhaust. It sounded embarrising to drive honestly. To mitigate this sound, I went with a louvered resonator right after that turn before the flange for midpipe. This replaced the noise cancellation secondary cat did but relieved some of the backpressure. This probably restored some backpressure (compared to a perforated design) but I needed to keep this car sounding stock. That did the trick and I actually like the sound now. Very deep at start up, quieter after a minute warm up. Clearly a better flow. Its pretty agressive at WOT, but almost stock in normal driving and highway cruising. No really noticable gains but obviously better flowing than before.
Now my set up is:
Kleeman Header-> HFCat-> Downpipe-> Resonator-> Midpipe-> Muffler
2nd up: Bored Throttle Body?
I went ahead and got an OEM throttle body and had it bored out. I think the achievement was 2-3mm. Not much but the intake portion of this set up from what I understand, not much to be gained on the intake. the stock cold air box and enourmous cone filter is enough for the boost application here. I decided to go with the throttle body because the access to having it bored out was easy enough for me. Pics below. The idea here was to free up restriction because of the tiny TB of a supercharged car.
The drive here was awesome. Immediate Throttle response. At highway driving car downshifts much faster than before. One thing I noticed. WOT, the car revved to 6200RPM. Redline is 6000RPM and I do not recall it doing this before.
Question, is this possible?
As usual pics below. These two mods no way matched the feel after the Kleeman Header. I think the only other possible mod for this car is going to be Pulley/ECU tune. Now only if Corey gives me a deal.
F/S stock M271 Throttle Body 35k miles!
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bamabenzW203 (04-23-2023)
#93
Junior Member
That's insulting dude.
I had OE tunes flash tune my stock 03 c230k Manual with just a performance air filter and it made just over a 1 sec difference 0-60mph and I can lay rubber in 1st and grab 2nd every time with new tires while before could not even make them squeak. Placebo effect? That's freaking insulting dude!
By no means am I calling you out or Bruce but I'm not really feeling it.
I'll give you my side of the story and maybe we can all come to a conclusion.
I fiddled with DAS today and below is my explanation of why I feel this whole thing isn't worth it.
Timing:
The timing that you were mentioning is just set so the engine management doesn't work an extra step. The value that you changed from 91 to 93 is the minimum value. When it was originally set to 91 and you put 93 you would get the same effect because the sensors would just adjust. This is just to save the engine management from doing extra steps. Also now that you set your minimum to 93 you are endangering your engine because of detonation because you are telling your engine "hey the minimum I'm going to ever put is 93 so just start off at 93 octane"
See below it says minimum value and also has a warning about setting the correct because of detonation (better to be safe than sorry). I wouldn't want to risk any engine damage. Again this is Minimum Value and your computer will adjust accordingly.
Fuel:
The fuel stages that you were talking about "Stage1" and "Stage2" was done blindly. Sounds like you guys guessed on these because you didn't even strap it onto a dyno. You might be running to rich and risk blowing out o2 sensors (I was gonna say CAT but I think Kleemann eliminates the cats). See picture below
Adaptation Map:
The placebo effect of people feeling they have gained insane amount of HP because of better throttle response.
Conclusion:
I have a feeling you are getting the extra psi in boost because of this adaptation reset. All these people are praising Bruce but in your post it seems like he didn't know what he was doing because you mentioned how he said look what I found which definitely sounds like he didn't know what he was doing. Also I understand find you put headers and downpipe but you do a whole new fuel "tune" and you don't strap it on to a dyno to see what results you are getting? For the people out there a real tune is done through the ecu. Don't mess with this Mickey Mouse DAS (SDS) "tunes". Also sounds like Bruce wasn't in Developer Mode. You can't really do ANY engine tunes in regular DAS. You need Developer but even with Developer you can't code the ECU.
Hopefully someone can prove me wrong but I feel this all is a waste of time and a placebo effect of the Reset of Adaptation. Even with the little Reset of Transmission Adaptation the car feels like it gained extra horses (John knows he did it).
I'll give you my side of the story and maybe we can all come to a conclusion.
I fiddled with DAS today and below is my explanation of why I feel this whole thing isn't worth it.
Timing:
The timing that you were mentioning is just set so the engine management doesn't work an extra step. The value that you changed from 91 to 93 is the minimum value. When it was originally set to 91 and you put 93 you would get the same effect because the sensors would just adjust. This is just to save the engine management from doing extra steps. Also now that you set your minimum to 93 you are endangering your engine because of detonation because you are telling your engine "hey the minimum I'm going to ever put is 93 so just start off at 93 octane"
See below it says minimum value and also has a warning about setting the correct because of detonation (better to be safe than sorry). I wouldn't want to risk any engine damage. Again this is Minimum Value and your computer will adjust accordingly.
Fuel:
The fuel stages that you were talking about "Stage1" and "Stage2" was done blindly. Sounds like you guys guessed on these because you didn't even strap it onto a dyno. You might be running to rich and risk blowing out o2 sensors (I was gonna say CAT but I think Kleemann eliminates the cats). See picture below
Adaptation Map:
The placebo effect of people feeling they have gained insane amount of HP because of better throttle response.
Conclusion:
I have a feeling you are getting the extra psi in boost because of this adaptation reset. All these people are praising Bruce but in your post it seems like he didn't know what he was doing because you mentioned how he said look what I found which definitely sounds like he didn't know what he was doing. Also I understand find you put headers and downpipe but you do a whole new fuel "tune" and you don't strap it on to a dyno to see what results you are getting? For the people out there a real tune is done through the ecu. Don't mess with this Mickey Mouse DAS (SDS) "tunes". Also sounds like Bruce wasn't in Developer Mode. You can't really do ANY engine tunes in regular DAS. You need Developer but even with Developer you can't code the ECU.
Hopefully someone can prove me wrong but I feel this all is a waste of time and a placebo effect of the Reset of Adaptation. Even with the little Reset of Transmission Adaptation the car feels like it gained extra horses (John knows he did it).
Last edited by bamabenzW203; 04-23-2023 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Grammar edit.