- Mercedes-Benz C-Class AMG: Common Problems
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Common suspension noises and solutions
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5616937
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5618957
A lot of confusion around the sway bars ... evidently lots of changeups over time.
If you want a second dealership opinion, try calling the parts counter at Autobahn Motors in Belmont Shores, CA 94002 http://www.autobahnmotors.com/index.htm
Steering rack bushings $70 each
Water pump $950
Supercharger clutch $5600
Intercooler pump $900
End links $190
TCC solenoid $430
I'd be shocked if a new sway bar came in less than $800
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5616937
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5618957
A lot of confusion around the sway bars ... evidently lots of changeups over time.
If you want a second dealership opinion, try calling the parts counter at Autobahn Motors in Belmont Shores, CA 94002 http://www.autobahnmotors.com/index.htm
Steering rack bushings $70 each
Water pump $950
Supercharger clutch $5600
Intercooler pump $900
End links $190
TCC solenoid $430
I'd be shocked if a new sway bar came in less than $800
Sorry, I didn't see you were in Australia. It's a crime how much some countries/regions are overcharged for car parts.
For the sway bar specifically I was initially surprised at the low price (I believe it's $80 retail here) ... but then realized that since you can't buy the bushings separately and are stuck with a complete bar just to fix two $10 rubber parts, they much have priced it lower to compensate.
Too bad you can't call a US dealership and have them ship it over there ...
If it's really that large of a price gap, let me know what you need next time, I'll bake them into some chocolate chip cookies and send you over a care package
Last edited by jkowtko; Oct 20, 2014 at 11:29 PM.
Sorry, I didn't see you were in Australia. It's a crime how much some countries/regions are overcharged for car parts.
For the sway bar specifically I was initially surprised at the low price (I believe it's $80 retail here) ... but then realized that since you can't buy the bushings separately and are stuck with a complete bar just to fix two $10 rubber parts, they much have priced it lower to compensate.
Too bad you can't call a US dealership and have them ship it over there ...
If it's really that large of a price gap, let me know what you need next time, I'll bake them into some chocolate chip cookies and send you over a care package


Anyways the guys recon the new sway bar bushings are causing the noise. They're gonna fit some original mb bushings instead of the bilstein bushings they fitted. On the up side the steering rack mounts have improved the steering feel over bumps. The bar is 23mm with removable bushings. Hopefully that solves the popping noise once and for all. Got the behr and water pump going in this week and hopefully that closes out the restoration and my wallet can relax for a little andi can start enjoying the car more consistently. On the down side I scraped one of my wheels on the way home ... Seriously considering going back to the stock 17s.
Last edited by crembz; Oct 23, 2014 at 04:42 AM.
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Also need to replace the brake pads with something that doesn't sound like a dying pig in low speed braking!
But in the front, it sounds like my car has something loose. I can't even drive into a shopping plaza or parking lot that has a slight bump without slowing down, otherwise it sounds like my car is gonna fall apart. It sounds like a big part (maybe shocks?) are lose and banging up and down on the chassis. Not only that, the car is bouncy and unstable hitting even a CRACK on the road. Yes, a small crack.
Anyone have a good idea what I should look at? I'm sure the car needs some new suspension, but I'm trying to tackle this noise first, and come summer I will do a complete swap.
Open the hood and look at the two mount points on the sides of the engine bay where the top of each struct sticks through. Fastened to the top of each strut post is a small straight (1" x 4") metal bracket that should be floating above the chassis metal maybe 1/4". The nut itself it probably covered by a black plastic cap.
Bounce the car up and down. You should see the bracket flex only every so slightly up and down relative to the body of the car. It should flex less than a millimeter. If you see it moving a lot, then the top rubber mount is likely torn.
It that is the culprit, then you are looking at having to remove the struts assembly in order to get to the strut mount (it is part of the strut assembly complete with compressed spring). And in order to take out the strut, you have to remove the ball joint of the upper control arm from the steering knuckle. So if your car has not had front suspension work done lately (or since 2001), then you should consider replacing at this time:
* struts
* top strut mounts
* upper control arms
Additionally, to remove the bushing side of the upper control arm you have to remove the sway bar bushing brackets, so also consider replacing at this time:
* sway bar bushings.
The following additional items may also need to be replaced, but they can all be replaced independently without requiring removal of any of the above or each other:
* lower control arms
* sway bar links
* sway bar bushings.
If you do the bounce test and that top bracket does not appear to flex excessively but you still feel poor control and/or get lots of noise, then your struts just might be shot. Unfortunately that's about the same list as above for the top strut mounts ... I would suggest replacing the strut mounts whenever you replace the struts, since you have to disassemble so much to get to either part.
There is one other possibility that I've heard of, which is a broken spring. You should be able to check the spring by visual inspection if you jack up the car and remove the tire. The entire spring is in plain sight.
Let us know what you find!
Thanks. John
Last edited by jkowtko; Dec 20, 2014 at 02:49 PM.


Left thrust arm bushing.
Right thrust arm bushing
oh my bad then, well i recall those one had some oil on em well at least on the passenger side..similar to the first pic you posted but with less oil plus it had cracks in em too , all 4 arms (Camber/Castor) in the car.Do you have any idea how much per piece?
Last edited by Cruel-Merc; Dec 21, 2014 at 05:53 PM.

They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
I would replace the fronts and rears all together. I suggest you also consider replacing the top strut mounts -- an extra cost, but you don't want to have to go back in there in a few years to replace them.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-question.html









