Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Specifications and General Maintenance
- Mercedes-Benz C-Class AMG: Common Problems
Important information to help you understand your Mercedes-Benz
Browse all: Specifications and General Maintenance
Common suspension noises and solutions
#201
Super Member
Yes , i saw some cracks but not that serious , i was told to check the bearing aswell but that i have to take out the whole strut.I have replaced both control arms a month ago .Everything seems to be normal when turning left while cars jacked , the noise comes when the car is sitting on the ground and you turn the wheel to the left , you could hear a grinding sound and its like something metal snapping from its place then going back and there is a sound just like when something hits under the car when on freeway, i looked at the mount and turned the wheel , it acted weird like something is keepin it from rotating so it just rotate to the left then snaps i dont know its just too noisy and the car doesnt seem to run normal,the passenger side is running normal. i will take a video tomorrow and post it here.
Can you get under the car while someone turns the wheel? If you don't trust ramps, then drive the one tire onto a tall a curb to create some room underneath.
#202
Member
Your description of the noise when turning sounds like bearing, but on the freeway when you are not turning? I would normally think of control arm ball joints, but you said you just replaced those.
Can you get under the car while someone turns the wheel? If you don't trust ramps, then drive the one tire onto a tall a curb to create some room underneath.
Can you get under the car while someone turns the wheel? If you don't trust ramps, then drive the one tire onto a tall a curb to create some room underneath.
#203
Super Member
Okay I see -- you said the noise is equivalent to if something kicks up under the car on the freeway. I can envision a bunch of different noises ... a video clip woul really help here
Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.
Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.
#204
Member
Okay I see -- you said the noise is equivalent to if something kicks up under the car on the freeway. I can envision a bunch of different noises ... a video clip woul really help here
Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.
Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.
#205
Super Member
Boy that engine is loud! Are you inside a metal storage locker?
It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John
It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John
#206
Member
Boy that engine is loud! Are you inside a metal storage locker?
It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John
It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John
#207
Junior Member
HEY GUYS; HAPPY EASTER.
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
#208
I have a very irritating problem and would love if any1 knew how to fix it.
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
#209
Super Member
HEY GUYS; HAPPY EASTER.
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
#210
Super Member
I have a very irritating problem and would love if any1 knew how to fix it.
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
#211
#212
Also i could mention that the breakes are uneven on the front right wheel. if i take the wheel off and try to spin the axle around it only goes halfway before i have to use force to turn it more.
#213
Super Member
Does the left wheel not do this at all?
Does the wheel pulse at all while braking lightly at highway speeds?
If this is an audible noise, can you post and audio clip for us to listen to?
Thanks. John
#214
The wheel vibrates when i break hard, and the steering feels kinda floaty. I dont feel like i can steer accuartly.
#215
Junior Member
#216
#217
Super Member
It sounds like you have at least a rotor problem. Pads and rotors are easy to replace on these cars, so I suggest you do that first.
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
#218
It sounds like you have at least a rotor problem. Pads and rotors are easy to replace on these cars, so I suggest you do that first.
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
#219
Super Member
The issue may not be whether the thickness of the rotor varies, but that the entire platter is warped, in which case it's going to be a lot hard to true everything up. Spinning it on a lathe should tell you that pretty quickly.
If it turns out that you can cut it enough with a lathe to straighten it out, maybe it will work. Keep in mind there are minimum thicknesses you should comply with ... you don't want this thing to crack under hard braking.
Please post pics of the lathe if you do this.
#220
Junior Member
VIBRATION WHILE BREAKING
I BELIEVE THAT, AFTER A SERIES OF RESEARCH ARTICLES, I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT W203 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS DO ACT UP PREMATURELY. THAT INFO (I FORGET WHERE I FOUND IT) PROMPTED ME TO CHANGE OUT BOTH MY ROTORS AND PADS TO A HIGHER QUALITY. THE BRAKE FLUID IS ALSO FINNICKY AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS.
#221
Super Member
MY VIN IS WDBRF92H26F786272.
-THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
-THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
Unfortunate that it will cost more, but on the flip side the noise problem is better handled by the molded on bushings. And, for what it's worth, you get a brand new torsion bar.
#222
Super Member
HELLO JOHN.
I BELIEVE THAT, AFTER A SERIES OF RESEARCH ARTICLES, I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT W203 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS DO ACT UP PREMATURELY. THAT INFO (I FORGET WHERE I FOUND IT) PROMPTED ME TO CHANGE OUT BOTH MY ROTORS AND PADS TO A HIGHER QUALITY. THE BRAKE FLUID IS ALSO FINNICKY AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS.
I BELIEVE THAT, AFTER A SERIES OF RESEARCH ARTICLES, I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT W203 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS DO ACT UP PREMATURELY. THAT INFO (I FORGET WHERE I FOUND IT) PROMPTED ME TO CHANGE OUT BOTH MY ROTORS AND PADS TO A HIGHER QUALITY. THE BRAKE FLUID IS ALSO FINNICKY AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS.
I haven't touched the brake fluid since I did the brakes, but I did flush the fluid at that time.
#223
Junior Member
W203 BRAKE FLUID CHANGE INTERVAL
When I did my brakes three years ago, from what i could tell the OEM rotors were Balo, which were fairly cheap online. I ended up getting Zimmerman coated and (rear also) drilled for a bit more, but they have held up very well.
I haven't touched the brake fluid since I did the brakes, but I did flush the fluid at that time.
I haven't touched the brake fluid since I did the brakes, but I did flush the fluid at that time.
CHANGING THAT FLUID IS REGULARLY STATED IN THE FORUM. I'LL TRY TO CHANGE MINE EVERY COUPLE YEARS OR SO. I'VE EVEN MADE THE PRESSURE TOOL TO EASE THE PROCESS.
BE WELL SIR
#224
Super Member
I am certainly not against changing these fluids at frequent intervals. I have changed the tranny and PS fluid on all of our cars, and at ~100k miles each they run as if they were new.
Keeping fluids in the car fresher and cleaner than the stated maintenance intervals require will certainly not hurt your engine, PS or braking system ... and in my opinion they will help marginally at a minimum.
Keeping fluids in the car fresher and cleaner than the stated maintenance intervals require will certainly not hurt your engine, PS or braking system ... and in my opinion they will help marginally at a minimum.