- Mercedes-Benz C-Class AMG: Common Problems
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Common suspension noises and solutions
Can you get under the car while someone turns the wheel? If you don't trust ramps, then drive the one tire onto a tall a curb to create some room underneath.
Can you get under the car while someone turns the wheel? If you don't trust ramps, then drive the one tire onto a tall a curb to create some room underneath.

Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.

Fyi, the rack bushings do wear. I replaced mine last year -- actually a pretty easy job -- I posted my DIY in another thread.
In my case there was side-to-side slop in the steering, i.e. it would drift heavily in whatever direction the crown of the road was sloped. Others have reporting their rack bushings worn so badly that they got metal-on-metal clunk from the bushing core hitting the mounting tab of the rack. Definitely worth checking this out and replacing them if you see any play in the rack mounts.

It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John

It's really hard to hear the noise ... I think I could barely make it out but it's being drowned out pretty well by the engine noise.
Can you hear this noise from inside the car with the door closed?
Any way you can get a louder recording of the sound? Hold your camera right on the mount -- no need for a clear photo ... just need to get your microphone right up to it so the strut noise will come in louder than the engine noise.
Also if you have any large shop towels or blankets, use them to blanket the sound around the shock mount ... believe it or not it will help (I'm a sound guy on the side).
Thanks. John
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I HAVE A 2006 C280 4MATIC AND AM WONDERING IF THE FRONT SWAYBAR BUSHINGS ARE ATTACHED TO THE BAR OR NOT. IM GETTING AN INTERMITTENT CLUNK IN THE FRONT AND HAVE CHANGED THE END LINKS TO NO AVAIL. I BELIEVE THE BAR IS SWIMMING AROUND THE BUSHINGS AND WANT TO CHANGE THEM.
~88K MILES. THANK YOU!!!!!!
I have a c200k w203, that has gone 148k km.i bought it about 3 weeks ago. Just switched to summer tyres and now that i can hear almost every sound the car makes (and its not many) i notice that one of my wheels are doing e very weird thing. Before i start explaining i can will just say that while on winter tyres there was a lot of sound around 120km/h (the wobwobwobwob sound) I thiught i just had to adjust the wheels at a workshop, but now i think it might be the suspension.
The problem i have is kinda hard to explain, but its very noticable in a 25 degree turn (to the left and only to the left) at 80-120 km/h. When i turn a little bit the right, the front wheel starts vibrating, if i turn harder it stops vibrating (and it does not vibrate if i drive straight unless at speeds around 140-160 km/h)
Does the left wheel not do this at all?
Does the wheel pulse at all while braking lightly at highway speeds?
If this is an audible noise, can you post and audio clip for us to listen to?
Thanks. John
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
When you do the brake job you should also check the calipers carefully to make sure the piston moves fluidly and the dust boot rubber is still intact. You should be able to confirm this when you push the pistons back into the caliper housing to reset for the new pads.
Possibly your control arm bushings are shot as well -- when you brake to a stop sign do you hear some knocking around in the front suspension, and the steering gets a bit squeamish? Thats usually the control arm bushings.
The issue may not be whether the thickness of the rotor varies, but that the entire platter is warped, in which case it's going to be a lot hard to true everything up. Spinning it on a lathe should tell you that pretty quickly.
If it turns out that you can cut it enough with a lathe to straighten it out, maybe it will work. Keep in mind there are minimum thicknesses you should comply with ... you don't want this thing to crack under hard braking.
Please post pics of the lathe if you do this.
I BELIEVE THAT, AFTER A SERIES OF RESEARCH ARTICLES, I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT W203 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS DO ACT UP PREMATURELY. THAT INFO (I FORGET WHERE I FOUND IT) PROMPTED ME TO CHANGE OUT BOTH MY ROTORS AND PADS TO A HIGHER QUALITY. THE BRAKE FLUID IS ALSO FINNICKY AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS.
Unfortunate that it will cost more, but on the flip side the noise problem is better handled by the molded on bushings. And, for what it's worth, you get a brand new torsion bar.
I BELIEVE THAT, AFTER A SERIES OF RESEARCH ARTICLES, I CAME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT W203 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS DO ACT UP PREMATURELY. THAT INFO (I FORGET WHERE I FOUND IT) PROMPTED ME TO CHANGE OUT BOTH MY ROTORS AND PADS TO A HIGHER QUALITY. THE BRAKE FLUID IS ALSO FINNICKY AND NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS.
I haven't touched the brake fluid since I did the brakes, but I did flush the fluid at that time.
I haven't touched the brake fluid since I did the brakes, but I did flush the fluid at that time.
CHANGING THAT FLUID IS REGULARLY STATED IN THE FORUM. I'LL TRY TO CHANGE MINE EVERY COUPLE YEARS OR SO. I'VE EVEN MADE THE PRESSURE TOOL TO EASE THE PROCESS.
BE WELL SIR
Keeping fluids in the car fresher and cleaner than the stated maintenance intervals require will certainly not hurt your engine, PS or braking system ... and in my opinion they will help marginally at a minimum.








