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You can't use a 236.15 Fluid it is only for the new 7 speed plus transmissions!! Its blue BTW
You want to use the 236.14 (red/amber colored) In the USA we can find Shell 134ATF but as you are outside the USA don't know what is available. http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoli...begriff=236.14
Thank you! I do this.
Yes I`m from Europe and this case I`ll buy Fuchs TITAN ATF 4134 which is236,14.
I use this oil in my w203 (5-tronic) and I think that in the newer gearbox (as 7-gtronic) must use new oil...
I`ll use the same oil for older 7-g tronic.
Thank U!
Just did the transmission service on a 2009 ML 350 and it didn't have the torque converter drain plug. After I pumped some new fluid in the transmission I just took the bottom line to the trans cooler off and started the vehicle and let about 3 liters pump out into a pale, turned the car off and pumped more fluid into the transmission and repeated the process until the fluid was clean pumping out of the line.
Verified I have the torque convertor drain and figured I would make it easy to find next time. With the drain showing in the trans bell housing window, I put a little paint on the front pulley by the timing mark. Rotated crank 360 degrees and watched paint mark come around to confirm drain position, and all is good. Makes the next drain a little easier.
Excellent write up! I used this to help me change the tranny fluid in my 2010 GLK350 without any issues. I also bought the Assenmacher ATF129 fill plug adaptor ($39 shipped from ebay) and $5.00 Walmart garden pump to refill the transmission. Now I'm set for a few thousand miles and have all the tools and know how to do another flush when it comes time.
Working my way through this DIY now, and have a question: there is an aluminum bracket that holds the connectors for the O2 sensors that sits next to the tranny pan. I wasn't paying close enough attention, and when I removed the tranny pan I can't recall if any of the pan bolts were also used to hold on this bracket. I also removed a T-30 Torx bolt that was holding this bracket on, and now can't recall where I pulled it from. If anyone recalls this, it would be helpful.
Thanks!
EDIT: Figured out my issue. I had swapped the positions of two of the sprags. One of the sprags is different from the rest, and has an additional hole to take that T-30 bolt, holding the aluminum brackets.
Alternative to the Assenmacher ATF 129 for the Stupid And/Or Cheap
So if you're like me, and you've found yourself having drained all of the fluid out of your transmission, only to then realize that the Assenmacher filler adapter is NOT, in fact, optional, and it's a Saturday evening, and it'd be at least four days before Amazon could deliver the proper tool, you might be wondering if there is some way to MacGuyver something together to allow you to fill the transmission. There is.
I headed to the store with johnand's idea of a simple M12 bolt in my head. While browsing the aisles, I pieced together something that I think is a bit easier to assemble than boring your own hole all the way through a regular bolt.
Head to your local auto parts store, and pick up two parts:
1) Dorman part# 65236 ($4.69). This is a M12-1.50 oil drain plug bolt. It is already bored through with a 3/16" hole all the way to just shy of the bolt head
2) Edelman part# 844240 ($4.99). This is a NPT to hose barb adapter
Head home, put the bolt in a vise, and use your drill press w/ a 3/16" bit to drill the existing shaft the rest of the way through the bolt head. Flip the bolt over, and using a 3/8" drill bit, use the existing 3/16" hole as a guide to drill a 3/8" hole to a depth of about 4-5mm. Use a 1/8-27 NPT tap to cut some threads in the 3/8" hole, and thread in the NPT adapter.
Should looks like this:
Attach your fluid transfer pump hose to the hose barb, and start pumping.
I'm sure the Assenmacher adapter works great, and I wish I'd have ordered it like I should have. But for $10, this worked fine.
I have a cls550 2008. In the recent months, the sixth gear has started slipping at about 1800 rpm or 60-65 mph. No check engine light yet, but eventually its going to need to be replaced or rebuild. I find on ebay used transmissions for about $800, and I was looking into this thread about flushing the other transmission whenever i replace it. My other question was, since I dont think im able to rebuild the old transmission, im going to replace it and I was wondering whether after replacing the transmission do i need to take the car to the dealership for software/speed update/upgrade or anything like that? Thank you in advance, Luke.
I got a bit confused about the correct interval for changing the ATF on the 722.9. Is it a 4000miles/6400km interval or 4000km/2500miles interval between changes?
I have just bought a e500 04 with 8500km on the odometer. Do not know if the ATF have been changed on this car or not. So I will perform the filter and oil change this weekend.
I have made a filling tool that I hope will work. Working fine with water when I just tried it. I have attached a picture of it.
In my 2008 W211 you would need to add one zero to your figures, which makes the factory recommended AT fluid change interval 60,000 km or 37,500 miles!
In my 2008 W211 you would need to add one zero to your figures, which makes the factory recommended AT fluid change interval 60,000 km or 37,500 miles!
Ops, of course. 6000 km interval would be a bit annoying
And thank you for clarifying that. I thought to this day that the interval was 40 000 km and was a bit worried that my car may have been driven 85000 km without a change. But if the recommended is 60 000 then it is not that much over.
And I think they have changed it, it´s just that it´s missing service records for the later years.
Got 6.2 liters out after dropping the pan and let it drip over night. Got 2 liters extra of fluid out because of the over night dripping, otherwise I would have got 4.2 liters only.
Now, my only concern, is that the car may not have been totally leveled when doing the change.
The car was on a lift but I did not have anything to verify it was totally leveled. I dont think the lift should be that much of but I think I got more in than out, even if it was maybe 1-2 deciliter or less.
Got 6.2 liters out after dropping the pan and let it drip over night. Got 2 liters extra of fluid out because of the over night dripping, otherwise I would have got 4.2 liters only.
Now, my only concern, is that the car may not have been totally leveled when doing the change.
The car was on a lift but I did not have anything to verify it was totally leveled. I dont think the lift should be that much of but I think I got more in than out, even if it was maybe 1-2 deciliter or less.
Should I be concerned?
Were you not able drain the torque converter?
I drained the oil pan and the converter and it took close to 9 liters to refill the transmission.
I used a level on the bottom of oil pan to do the best I could to level it, but the oil pan itself is far from perfectly straight!
You can get different level indications depending on where you check it so it is not very precise.
As far as how close you were to level, it's hard to say without seeing the lift - the ones I have seen looked pretty leveled!
I drained the oil pan and the converter and it took close to 9 liters to refill the transmission.
I used a level on the bottom of oil pan to do the best I could to level it, but the oil pan itself is far from perfectly straight!
You can get different level indications depending on where you check it so it is not very precise.
As far as how close you were to level, it's hard to say without seeing the lift - the ones I have seen looked pretty leveled!
Sorry for my late reply, had the big luck to become a father last week
No, I was not able to drain the converter. Did not find a drain plug. I did look at some pictures but I am not 100% convinced I was looking in the exact right spot.
I think I was quite leveled. The lift shouldn't be that far off. If it wasn't leveled it should be about a decimeter max from side to side of the car.
I plan on doing an oil and filter change soon again as the oil was very dark. Dark brown, almost black. But it did not smell burnt at all. So I will drop the pan, let it drop over night and change the filter again. Then I will get an additional 6.2 liter out and there should be mostly new oil in the system.
Or do you recommend to flush the transmission with help of the inline to the oilcooler? I have seen that being done in a youtube video.
I called the local merc dealer and they said that they only dropped the pan and refilled. If the oil didn't look very bad.
Sorry for my late reply, had the big luck to become a father last week
No, I was not able to drain the converter. Did not find a drain plug. I did look at some pictures but I am not 100% convinced I was looking in the exact right spot.
I think I was quite leveled. The lift shouldn't be that far off. If it wasn't leveled it should be about a decimeter max from side to side of the car.
I plan on doing an oil and filter change soon again as the oil was very dark. Dark brown, almost black. But it did not smell burnt at all. So I will drop the pan, let it drop over night and change the filter again. Then I will get an additional 6.2 liter out and there should be mostly new oil in the system.
Or do you recommend to flush the transmission with help of the inline to the oilcooler? I have seen that being done in a youtube video.
I called the local merc dealer and they said that they only dropped the pan and refilled. If the oil didn't look very bad.
Congratulations on a first child, I wish speedy recovery for all
You will need a helper to rotate the engine (clockwise only) from the crankshaft bolt while you are looking.
The converter drain plug is pretty small but very noticeable once you find the right spot.
Once you have found it, it's an excellent idea to put a mark on the pulley like "Gotdbenz" has suggested earlier in this thread!
Some of them do not have a drain.
In case there is no converter drain, if it was my car I would definitely flush it through the oil cooler line as you mentioned.
Great thread here - I just bought a w220 and first thing I do to all my cars is transmission fluid flush and filter change, I am in that better safe than sorry camp and do notice the difference and basically take Kent Bergsma's take on whether this is required (YES IT IS and +1 on get a new mechanic who says it isn't.)
No stranger to transmissions here, rebuilt my 722.4 replacing the brake band and that was loads of fun. However this 722.9 no filler tube / need IR thermometer stuff is quite new.
I was hoping someone can explain the logic of the "1L more than you took out" that I saw in WIS and all these instructions.
I'm guessing that only a certain level will come out at the 45 degree level and that is why it is reliable - can someone confirm that?
Right now the car I have hesitates to go forward with no accelerator - in other words, when you take your foot off the brake it doesn't creep forward much and on inclines goes back until give it gas. In my experience this is due to low fluid level.
If I put in 1L more than I take out, how do I know that is the right amount. What if I have 2L less than I am supposed to, then I put in 1L and now I only have 1L less than I am supposed to.
I am guess the temperature/expansion issue is why? Can anyone clarify the reasoning here.
It says to put in more than you take out in case it happened to be low before and the filling procedure is to let the fluid drain through that overflow tube until the level is correct anyway.
Great thread here - I just bought a w220 and first thing I do to all my cars is transmission fluid flush and filter change, I am in that better safe than sorry camp and do notice the difference and basically take Kent Bergsma's take on whether this is required (YES IT IS and +1 on get a new mechanic who says it isn't.)
No stranger to transmissions here, rebuilt my 722.4 replacing the brake band and that was loads of fun. However this 722.9 no filler tube / need IR thermometer stuff is quite new.
I was hoping someone can explain the logic of the "1L more than you took out" that I saw in WIS and all these instructions.
I'm guessing that only a certain level will come out at the 45 degree level and that is why it is reliable - can someone confirm that?
Right now the car I have hesitates to go forward with no accelerator - in other words, when you take your foot off the brake it doesn't creep forward much and on inclines goes back until give it gas. In my experience this is due to low fluid level.
If I put in 1L more than I take out, how do I know that is the right amount. What if I have 2L less than I am supposed to, then I put in 1L and now I only have 1L less than I am supposed to.
I am guess the temperature/expansion issue is why? Can anyone clarify the reasoning here.
Thanks!
The method to measure the level is to run the car until the oil in the transmission is 45C. Then you should let fluid run out of the plug until it is not only "spitting" out the fluid, then you have the right amount and can put the drain plug in.
If you have added to little in the first time, you will not see the fluid run out with a constant flow at first. If you do not see that, I would stop and add more then begin all over again.
So the logic of adding 1 liter over I think is so that you can verify that you first have the constant flow and then the spitting and not risk the situation you're talking about, have the spitting at once and not knowing if you have under leveled.
I have just made the fluid change and I am unsure if I got the level right because I used a cheap IR termometer and not sure if vehicle was leveled. But I have read enough to be quite sure about the procedure in theory
I am not a fan of the oil cooler flush cause more damage can be done with running the TC dry. I seems like it would be okay if the pan were off and hose suck onto the filter tube or with a pumping machine but what a waste of ATF.
New tranny will discolor the ATF. The fluid looks dark but smells okay.
A little bit of old ATF left in will lessen the chance of fluid shock. That is changing from very dirty to very clean on the swelling or contraction of the friction plates and seals. Some say it doesn't exist, but why take the chance and waste fluid.
The filter sometimes comes lose and mimics a low ATF level -- no or hesitation to accelerate.
I agree sucking new ATF in through filter tube and making sure not running it dry, but don't see any ATF waste happening if the objective is to get all the old fluid out!
If the fluid is dark it must be contaminated.
The fluid in my AT looked and smelled fine except it was dark and the magnets had bunch of fine metal dust in them.
My ATF was also very dark, but did not smell burnt.
Is it supposed to be red as new oil or is it OK for it to be dark brown? As I did not drain the torque converter I guess the oil is dark again as it have mixed with the remaining.
Should I do a flush or can I just let it be now? I asked the dealer and they said they only drop the pan and change the oil in there.
My ATF was also very dark, but did not smell burnt.
Is it supposed to be red as new oil or is it OK for it to be dark brown? As I did not drain the torque converter I guess the oil is dark again as it have mixed with the remaining.
Should I do a flush or can I just let it be now? I asked the dealer and they said they only drop the pan and change the oil in there.
Since my MB transmission has no dipstick it's pretty hard to check the oil for color so I decided to go outside and check the AT oil color in our year 2000 Ford Explorer SUV, which currently has 228,000 miles on the odometer (equivalent about 365,000 km) of mostly highway driving.
The 4.0 L engine and AT transmission are all original with no major repairs, other than regular maintenance.
We have had it since new and the AT oil has been chanced at: 110,000 km, 185,000 km, 237,000 km, 290,000 km, 323,000 km, and now at 365,000 km as of this morning the oil is nice clean red in color in the dipstick.
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