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Replacing Tensioner/Idler pulley on 1.8L C230
09-17-2010, 08:24 PM
#51
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
I just finished the installation of the new (rebuilt) alternator. The one removed was a Valeo (as opposed to the Bosch alternator). It would be interesting if all the alternators removed from the cars with the squealling problems were due to Valeo units.
Anyways, no more squeals!
Anyways, no more squeals!
09-17-2010, 10:27 PM
#52
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C230
Probably, but the extra 10 minutes ate well worth it. The more room the better , although supposedly the alternator comes out the bottom so you may not need to remove anything but the bottom cover...
09-18-2010, 01:07 AM
#53
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You need to remove:
air intake crossover tube
wideband silencer
sepentine belt
lower engine cover
disconnect neg battery cable
disconnect the electrical connector and cable from the back of alternator
remove the two upper alternator bolts from on top
remove the two lower alternator bolts from the bottom
(I removed the foward inner wheel liner for more access)
Remove the alternator through the top
Reverse to install
air intake crossover tube
wideband silencer
sepentine belt
lower engine cover
disconnect neg battery cable
disconnect the electrical connector and cable from the back of alternator
remove the two upper alternator bolts from on top
remove the two lower alternator bolts from the bottom
(I removed the foward inner wheel liner for more access)
Remove the alternator through the top
Reverse to install
09-18-2010, 07:40 AM
#54
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
Thanks guys, I pray this works!
One interesting note, when I had the car on ramps I could not duplicate the noise, but I could still feel the vibration.
One interesting note, when I had the car on ramps I could not duplicate the noise, but I could still feel the vibration.
09-18-2010, 11:27 AM
#55
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For those with alternator and/or pulley issues, what sort of mileage was on your cars when the problems started?
Wondering when my time will come...
Wondering when my time will come...
09-18-2010, 02:13 PM
#57
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05 C230 Kompressor
Finally replaced the Idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. I believe the noise went away for when the A/C is on and I have my vehicle on D or R.
I did what rabney did, except I did not remove the fan nor the radiator hose (just because I already did my coolant flush and re-fill almost a year back. Did not want to do it again.
My rough idle is still present lol
I did what rabney did, except I did not remove the fan nor the radiator hose (just because I already did my coolant flush and re-fill almost a year back. Did not want to do it again.
My rough idle is still present lol
09-18-2010, 02:53 PM
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
Finally replaced the Idler pulley and the tensioner pulley. I believe the noise went away for when the A/C is on and I have my vehicle on D or R.
I did what rabney did, except I did not remove the fan nor the radiator hose (just because I already did my coolant flush and re-fill almost a year back. Did not want to do it again.
My rough idle is still present lol
I did what rabney did, except I did not remove the fan nor the radiator hose (just because I already did my coolant flush and re-fill almost a year back. Did not want to do it again.
My rough idle is still present lol
09-18-2010, 05:03 PM
#60
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05 C230 Kompressor
I'm not sure if it will cause premature wear on other pulleys. I'm mainly aiming at fixing my rough idle issue. Which I'm beginning to think it has something to do with the Throttle Body. Who knows, it might be the alternator.
09-18-2010, 05:27 PM
#61
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
I had a rough idle due to a vacuum leak. Did you have the $12 hose replaced?
09-18-2010, 10:45 PM
#62
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The throttle body in NLPAMG's 2005 C230 was bad and caused a rough idle. At the same time he had an EECS CEL but I don't think the rough idle ever caused a CEL. You should definitely try the throttle body.
My car is knocking on 90,000 miles with none of these issues.
My car is knocking on 90,000 miles with none of these issues.
09-19-2010, 10:57 AM
#63
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C230
You know, I still get somewhat of a rough idle but again, only when in d or r, ac on and not moving. The motor dips down to 600rpm due to the extra load on the motor, but when in park it idles smooth as can be.... Weird car. That rough idle includes the supercharger area to vibrate pretty good...
And I replaced the alternator and had that service call done on that little hose... I wondering about a dirty mass air meter?
And I replaced the alternator and had that service call done on that little hose... I wondering about a dirty mass air meter?
Last edited by rabney72; 09-19-2010 at 11:02 AM.
09-21-2010, 12:28 PM
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05 C230 Kompressor
Same problem as you bruh. It idles semi rough even on Neutral or Park (worse when on D or R).
I know NLPAMG had the same issue and his fix was replacing the TB. I just don't want to go spending carelessly with out knowing the real cause. I've spent a few hundred dollars doing some of the stuff already. Alternator is another 200 and TB, well who knows.
I know NLPAMG had the same issue and his fix was replacing the TB. I just don't want to go spending carelessly with out knowing the real cause. I've spent a few hundred dollars doing some of the stuff already. Alternator is another 200 and TB, well who knows.
09-21-2010, 06:57 PM
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
I know the throttle body is like $1k from the dealer but you can get it rebuilt for $250. Then again i have a c32, it might be cheaper for the other models.
09-21-2010, 07:58 PM
#66
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05 C230 Kompressor
No way man! Wow.
Well I got this quote from this site that sells used MB parts from a lot for $115 shipped.
Any one on here willing to do a quick swap for TB's? I'm not sure how much time and labor is involved in doing this...
09-22-2010, 07:58 PM
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
well I haven't had much time to do a write up.
Follow the instructions in this post (scroll down), up to step 6. And disregard any a/c related steps.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Pretty much the tools you need are:
- 3/8" and 1/4" drive socket wrenches
- 10mm, 7mm, 8mm, 13mm socket
- a 3/8" gear wrench is ideal for the bottom two bolts of the alternator (get from the underside)
- two different torx female sockets (i'll get the size of them later) for bolts like on the idler pulley, wideband silencer bracket, frame support (that goes over the radiator) as well as the alternator bracket
- the special "tamper resistant" t50 male torx with the .15 hole in the center for the tensioner pulley
-t60 torx to release the belt tensioner
- needle nose pliers and a skinny flat head screwdriver to release the rings off of the radiator and intake hoses.
That should be about it. Once you get to step 6 in those instructions, it should be fairly straight forward, just removal of the components...
If you need further detail, I'll try to figure out how to post instructions from the MB manual...
Or just call me...
512-563-5359
Follow the instructions in this post (scroll down), up to step 6. And disregard any a/c related steps.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Pretty much the tools you need are:
- 3/8" and 1/4" drive socket wrenches
- 10mm, 7mm, 8mm, 13mm socket
- a 3/8" gear wrench is ideal for the bottom two bolts of the alternator (get from the underside)
- two different torx female sockets (i'll get the size of them later) for bolts like on the idler pulley, wideband silencer bracket, frame support (that goes over the radiator) as well as the alternator bracket
- the special "tamper resistant" t50 male torx with the .15 hole in the center for the tensioner pulley
-t60 torx to release the belt tensioner
- needle nose pliers and a skinny flat head screwdriver to release the rings off of the radiator and intake hoses.
That should be about it. Once you get to step 6 in those instructions, it should be fairly straight forward, just removal of the components...
If you need further detail, I'll try to figure out how to post instructions from the MB manual...
Or just call me...
512-563-5359
Do you have keyed torx sockets for your 3/8" gear wrench? Or did you just use a 3/8" box wrench?
09-24-2010, 07:00 PM
#68
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2005 C230 Sport Sedan
Same problem as you bruh. It idles semi rough even on Neutral or Park (worse when on D or R).
I know NLPAMG had the same issue and his fix was replacing the TB. I just don't want to go spending carelessly with out knowing the real cause. I've spent a few hundred dollars doing some of the stuff already. Alternator is another 200 and TB, well who knows.
I know NLPAMG had the same issue and his fix was replacing the TB. I just don't want to go spending carelessly with out knowing the real cause. I've spent a few hundred dollars doing some of the stuff already. Alternator is another 200 and TB, well who knows.
Last edited by rsxnut1; 09-24-2010 at 08:40 PM.
09-25-2010, 09:20 AM
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C230
09-25-2010, 10:19 AM
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E350 4D 4Matic - 2012
infected- your theory seems to be 2 for 2 so far. you dont seem to have gone wrong on changing the alternator.
should we replace the idler pulley at the same time though?
should we replace the idler pulley at the same time though?
01-27-2011, 12:36 PM
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05 C230 Kompressor
01-27-2011, 12:53 PM
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2013 S550, CLS500, ‘03 SL500, “92 190E Sportline
I think it does, but according to alldatadiy.com it says "Confirm correct length of pulley, long pulley for Valeo and shorter pulley for Bosch and Valeo, refer to EPC (Figure 4). Install new pulley and tighten with the socket counterclockwise to 80 nm . Use a torque wrench that functions in both directions. Install new plastic cover on end of pulley.
It then shows the image I attached.
Also, note it says "long pulley for Valeo, and shorter pulley for Bosch AND Valeo" - would that mean that the shorter pulley would work for either alternator? Lol...confused.
If we get the correct pulley, would the belt fit fine without any further changes besides getting the correct pulley?
It then shows the image I attached.
Also, note it says "long pulley for Valeo, and shorter pulley for Bosch AND Valeo" - would that mean that the shorter pulley would work for either alternator? Lol...confused.
If we get the correct pulley, would the belt fit fine without any further changes besides getting the correct pulley?
Last edited by aolsen; 01-27-2011 at 12:56 PM.
