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Replacing Tensioner/Idler pulley on 1.8L C230
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Joined: Feb 2009
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C230
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 82
Likes: 2
C230
So I just got around to working on the car.....got the alternator pulled and the idler pulley. I need a special driver to remove the tensioner pulley...and why has everybody been saying to replace the entire tensioner bracket when the pully can just be removed?..See pic
I also have to say... the alternator pulley and idler bearings both feel good. I have a bad feeling that the culprit is the compressor (supercharger)...But I hope Infected is right and my car will be squeak free by the end of the week
I also have to say... the alternator pulley and idler bearings both feel good. I have a bad feeling that the culprit is the compressor (supercharger)...But I hope Infected is right and my car will be squeak free by the end of the week
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 260
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From: Los Angeles
05 C230 Kompressor
Let me know how it goes bro! I'm anxious to see what's up! It looks like you removed the idler pulley. The bracket belongs to the tensioner pulley (correct me if I'm wrong though)
Last edited by seagel1000; Sep 14, 2010 at 01:34 AM.
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C230
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
rabney72, where did you find just the pulley for the belt tensioner? All the parts places I looked-up, they sell the entire tensioner assembly... none of them sell the pulley itself.
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Senior Member
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From: Los Angeles
05 C230 Kompressor
According to his new response this morning, he bought the whole assembly but only ended up using the pulley. He pulled it off the assembly and installed it alone (avoiding the hassle of removing the SC & anything required to replace it).
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
2013 C350 Coupe, 2005 C230K Kleemann Sedan, 2013 GLK350 4matic
My rebuilt alternator that I ordered should be here today. I previously replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley was good, so I am leaning towards the alternator on being the cause of the noise.
I am going to hold on to the alternator once it is pulled off and if we can show MB that it is a common issue on the 2005 C230's, perhaps we can get compensated for the replacement.
I will be so glad once the screech is gone.
I am going to hold on to the alternator once it is pulled off and if we can show MB that it is a common issue on the 2005 C230's, perhaps we can get compensated for the replacement.
I will be so glad once the screech is gone.
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C230
Btw the Torque spec for both pulleys is 25N-m.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 260
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From: Los Angeles
05 C230 Kompressor
Any chance you can post up quick instructions on how you replaced each part (tools, procedures, etc.)? *You also mentioned a T-50Torx with .15" drilled hole in the center of? (what was the purpose of drilling the hole?)*
I'm going to try and tackle the pulleys this weekend.
Thanks
Last edited by seagel1000; Sep 16, 2010 at 09:00 AM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 82
Likes: 2
C230
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 82
Likes: 2
C230
Hey rabney
Any chance you can post up quick instructions on how you replaced each part (tools, procedures, etc.)? *You also mentioned a T-50Torx with .15" drilled hole in the center of? (what was the purpose of drilling the hole?)*
I'm going to try and tackle the pulleys this weekend.
Thanks
Any chance you can post up quick instructions on how you replaced each part (tools, procedures, etc.)? *You also mentioned a T-50Torx with .15" drilled hole in the center of? (what was the purpose of drilling the hole?)*
I'm going to try and tackle the pulleys this weekend.
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 260
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From: Los Angeles
05 C230 Kompressor
Sure but it'll be this afternoon. The purpose of the hole is because the bolt head on the tensioner pulley is a "tamper resistant" that has a cylindrical boss in the center of the torx pattern, so in order to mesh to it I had to drill a hole. Btw they sell these tools but often not in that large of a head size (t50).
I'll have to drop by Harbor Freight to pick up some tools.
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C230
well I haven't had much time to do a write up.
Follow the instructions in this post (scroll down), up to step 6. And disregard any a/c related steps.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Pretty much the tools you need are:
- 3/8" and 1/4" drive socket wrenches
- 10mm, 7mm, 8mm, 13mm socket
- a 3/8" gear wrench is ideal for the bottom two bolts of the alternator (get from the underside)
- two different torx female sockets (i'll get the size of them later) for bolts like on the idler pulley, wideband silencer bracket, frame support (that goes over the radiator) as well as the alternator bracket
- the special "tamper resistant" t50 male torx with the .15 hole in the center for the tensioner pulley
-t60 torx to release the belt tensioner
- needle nose pliers and a skinny flat head screwdriver to release the rings off of the radiator and intake hoses.
That should be about it. Once you get to step 6 in those instructions, it should be fairly straight forward, just removal of the components...
If you need further detail, I'll try to figure out how to post instructions from the MB manual...
Or just call me...
512-563-5359
Follow the instructions in this post (scroll down), up to step 6. And disregard any a/c related steps.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Pretty much the tools you need are:
- 3/8" and 1/4" drive socket wrenches
- 10mm, 7mm, 8mm, 13mm socket
- a 3/8" gear wrench is ideal for the bottom two bolts of the alternator (get from the underside)
- two different torx female sockets (i'll get the size of them later) for bolts like on the idler pulley, wideband silencer bracket, frame support (that goes over the radiator) as well as the alternator bracket
- the special "tamper resistant" t50 male torx with the .15 hole in the center for the tensioner pulley
-t60 torx to release the belt tensioner
- needle nose pliers and a skinny flat head screwdriver to release the rings off of the radiator and intake hoses.
That should be about it. Once you get to step 6 in those instructions, it should be fairly straight forward, just removal of the components...
If you need further detail, I'll try to figure out how to post instructions from the MB manual...
Or just call me...
512-563-5359
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,305
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
2013 C350 Coupe, 2005 C230K Kleemann Sedan, 2013 GLK350 4matic
I just finished the installation of the new (rebuilt) alternator. The one removed was a Valeo (as opposed to the Bosch alternator). It would be interesting if all the alternators removed from the cars with the squealling problems were due to Valeo units.
Anyways, no more squeals!
Anyways, no more squeals!
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I just finished the installation of the new (rebuilt) alternator. The one removed was a Valeo (as opposed to the Bosch alternator). It would be interesting if all the alternators removed from the cars with the squealling problems were due to Valeo units.
Anyways, no more squeals!
Anyways, no more squeals!
No Valeo radiators or alternators have ever been fitted here because both Behr & Bosch have plants in SA to support our local content program. Noisy alternators are not a common occurrence here.
Pleased the noise is gone.
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From: Novi MI
2005 C230 Sport Sedan
