M111 Starter Rebuild DIY ?
10-27-2010, 07:48 PM
#26
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'05 c230 Coupe
Congratulations on getting the job done and thanks for the suggestion about bolts, clips, and rivets.
Do you by chance have the part numbers for these items?
Do you by chance have the part numbers for these items?
10-27-2010, 09:55 PM
#27
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2007 ML350
I am interested in the write up (PDF, video, whatever) as well. I have an M111, with 113k on it, and I hope to make it to 160k.
I am having the differential resealed at the stealership this weekend... $600... =(
I am having the differential resealed at the stealership this weekend... $600... =(
10-27-2010, 10:13 PM
#28
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Just wondering
we used to do several models by unhooking the motor mounts and lifting the engine after disconnecting the exhaust. Gave easy access to the starter and a block of wood under the pan and a 3/4 ton jack lifted it up for easy removal.
Would that work in your case?
Would that work in your case?
10-28-2010, 03:26 PM
#29
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I'll do a write up when I have time.
If anyone is desperate, and has a starter issue, PM me.
Update: It's done.
Question mark no longer required.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4325397
If anyone is desperate, and has a starter issue, PM me.
Update: It's done.
Question mark no longer required.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4325397
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 10-28-2010 at 07:30 PM.
01-20-2011, 07:44 PM
#30
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It has been pointed out to me that my link is dead.
Here's the pdf I made.
Here's the pdf I made.
03-21-2012, 04:43 AM
#32
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I was going through some pics and video's cleaning up my 'puter, and came across some stuff related to this, I had wanted to post and never got to.
1. Here's a pic of the wrench with the extensions attached. Wheel was removed to make room to move around under the car.
Next is a video of the starter and some info on bolt sizes.
http://youtu.be/bB-b7yh3O_Y
And last is the video of the 'trick' to getting the damn thing out in the 1st place.
http://youtu.be/l2cXPxsB8PY
One thing I don't know if I mentioned is to NOT MOVE THE STEERING WHEEL with the
linkage disconnected, or you may hose your clockspring.
Can't seem to find the original mercedes docs, which I know I had.
How do I get these to show up in nice little embedded windows?
I tried the Youtube code, no go.
Glyn, maybe change the title of this to Starter Repair, remove and replacement. or something more descriptive and make it a sticky.
Nail it to it's perch so to speak.
Don't miss than damn bird. Or the X.
1. Here's a pic of the wrench with the extensions attached. Wheel was removed to make room to move around under the car.
Next is a video of the starter and some info on bolt sizes.
http://youtu.be/bB-b7yh3O_Y
And last is the video of the 'trick' to getting the damn thing out in the 1st place.
http://youtu.be/l2cXPxsB8PY
One thing I don't know if I mentioned is to NOT MOVE THE STEERING WHEEL with the
linkage disconnected, or you may hose your clockspring.
Can't seem to find the original mercedes docs, which I know I had.
How do I get these to show up in nice little embedded windows?
I tried the Youtube code, no go.
Glyn, maybe change the title of this to Starter Repair, remove and replacement. or something more descriptive and make it a sticky.
Nail it to it's perch so to speak.
Don't miss than damn bird. Or the X.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-21-2012 at 05:25 AM.
05-17-2015, 02:01 PM
#34
Super Member
Fyi I just replaced my starter motor on the M271 engine yesterday ... took me about 3 hours start to finish including several cleanup breaks and a lot of figuring stuff out. I should be able to do it again in about half that time. Your instructions and video were a huge help ... thanks!
Fyi --
* I was able to reach the top mounting bolt pretty easily with a 3/8" ratchet and the torx socket, enough to loosen the bolt, and if I sat there long enough ratcheting a few degrees of a turn at a time, I could have removed the bolt entirely that way. But using a U-joint attachment and a foot or so of extensions I was able to comfortably work with my ratchet handle at about the middle of the tranny pan. Definitely a tight access, but very doable.
* The steering column joint separation is very simple and effortless, but also very unintuitive. Your video gave me the proper hint but unfortunately did not show the movement, so it still took me a bit of time to understand what I needed to do. Therefore I would try to make it as clear as possible to people: (a) the steering shaft coupler is just a square tube at the top, and the end of the steering column shaft is also square and is inserted into the top end of the coupler tube, about an inch. (b) so to disconnect the two you have to push the steering column shaft back up into the steering column (into the firewall) about an inch, to get it out of the top of the coupler, (c) then swing the coupler out of the way.
* My big unknown was the battery cable -- I had no idea what it looked like where it attached to the starter motor. Turns out my cable runs along the backside of the starter motor between the starter and the engine block, turns a right angle at the end to fit it's tab over the terminal post on the back of the starter, and the entire elbow end piece is enshrouded in a plastic case, complete with end cap to go over the nut. I don't know if the other engines have the same arrangement. I don't think I could have loosened that nut before pulling the starter out of it's mount a bit and tilting it downward. So I had to remove both starter mounting bolts first, then drop the rear of the starter motor down a bit, and then remove the battery cable from the back of it.
* A note on providing yourself some clearance: (1) when you disconnect the AC hose from the bracket, get a bungee cord and pull it towards the wheel well and tie it over there. I used a bungee from the metal U-turn of the AC line up to the strut spring ... that was enough to keep it pulled to the side and out of the way. (2) after disconnecting the steering coupler I was able to swing it up and towards the front of the engine, where it tucked nicely to the side of the kompressor muffler. (3) I also removed the metal bracket that held that electrical multi-pin connector, disconnected the connector, and tucked both pieces out of the way as well. (4) Now I had a clear view of the starter.
* I was able to remove and reinstall the starter WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE (yay!) ... however it was like working with a Chinese puzzle box. First to mention, the battery cable was not long enough for me to get the starter motor out with it attached, so I had to remove the battery cable completely from behind the starter and tuck it over the bell housing to get it out of the way, so that I could have enough room in the cavity to get that starter out. It took several twists and turns to get the front part of the starter out of the hole, but I was able to to do it. Of course, then I forgot what I did, so it took me a few more minutes of twisting and turning to get the new starter back in
All in all not a difficult job to do ... just a tight fit on everything, and requires a bit of patience. Like a said before I estimate the next time I do this (which is hopefully never) it shouldn't take me more than 90 minutes start to finish.
-- John
Fyi --
* I was able to reach the top mounting bolt pretty easily with a 3/8" ratchet and the torx socket, enough to loosen the bolt, and if I sat there long enough ratcheting a few degrees of a turn at a time, I could have removed the bolt entirely that way. But using a U-joint attachment and a foot or so of extensions I was able to comfortably work with my ratchet handle at about the middle of the tranny pan. Definitely a tight access, but very doable.
* The steering column joint separation is very simple and effortless, but also very unintuitive. Your video gave me the proper hint but unfortunately did not show the movement, so it still took me a bit of time to understand what I needed to do. Therefore I would try to make it as clear as possible to people: (a) the steering shaft coupler is just a square tube at the top, and the end of the steering column shaft is also square and is inserted into the top end of the coupler tube, about an inch. (b) so to disconnect the two you have to push the steering column shaft back up into the steering column (into the firewall) about an inch, to get it out of the top of the coupler, (c) then swing the coupler out of the way.
* My big unknown was the battery cable -- I had no idea what it looked like where it attached to the starter motor. Turns out my cable runs along the backside of the starter motor between the starter and the engine block, turns a right angle at the end to fit it's tab over the terminal post on the back of the starter, and the entire elbow end piece is enshrouded in a plastic case, complete with end cap to go over the nut. I don't know if the other engines have the same arrangement. I don't think I could have loosened that nut before pulling the starter out of it's mount a bit and tilting it downward. So I had to remove both starter mounting bolts first, then drop the rear of the starter motor down a bit, and then remove the battery cable from the back of it.
* A note on providing yourself some clearance: (1) when you disconnect the AC hose from the bracket, get a bungee cord and pull it towards the wheel well and tie it over there. I used a bungee from the metal U-turn of the AC line up to the strut spring ... that was enough to keep it pulled to the side and out of the way. (2) after disconnecting the steering coupler I was able to swing it up and towards the front of the engine, where it tucked nicely to the side of the kompressor muffler. (3) I also removed the metal bracket that held that electrical multi-pin connector, disconnected the connector, and tucked both pieces out of the way as well. (4) Now I had a clear view of the starter.
* I was able to remove and reinstall the starter WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE ANYTHING ELSE (yay!) ... however it was like working with a Chinese puzzle box. First to mention, the battery cable was not long enough for me to get the starter motor out with it attached, so I had to remove the battery cable completely from behind the starter and tuck it over the bell housing to get it out of the way, so that I could have enough room in the cavity to get that starter out. It took several twists and turns to get the front part of the starter out of the hole, but I was able to to do it. Of course, then I forgot what I did, so it took me a few more minutes of twisting and turning to get the new starter back in
All in all not a difficult job to do ... just a tight fit on everything, and requires a bit of patience. Like a said before I estimate the next time I do this (which is hopefully never) it shouldn't take me more than 90 minutes start to finish.
-- John
Last edited by jkowtko; 05-17-2015 at 02:08 PM.
05-17-2015, 03:43 PM
#36
Super Member
Oh sorry -- yes that was the problem. No issues after replacing it. My first impression upon first start was that the motor was turning over more slowly ... but after driving it around yesterday and 5-6 starts, I think the difference is that the new motor is a bit quieter than the old one. It's just a Bosch reman that I got from RockAuto for under $200 ... Bosch includes a 24 month roadside assistance service as part of their warranty for the part.
-- John
-- John
10-14-2015, 11:24 AM
#37
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2003 c230k
C230 Sport Coup, I want to send out a big thank you, sir! I changed my starter last night (2003 c230 sedan). Without your PDF guide and video about the steering linkage, I would have been there for days trying to figure it out. Overall, it wasn't too bad because I knew what I was getting in to. Took me about three hours total, though if I had to do it again, I bet I could do it in half that time. I spent an hour trying to get the starter out after I had removed the bolts. I was hoping to pull it without removing the wires first. It DOES NOT work. You HAVE to remove the cables from the solenoid or it will not drop. Once I resigned to that fact, it was pretty easy.
Again, seriously, thank you. You saved me a lot of time and/or money!
Again, seriously, thank you. You saved me a lot of time and/or money!
10-16-2015, 02:31 PM
#38
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Fan mail from Flounder? As bull winkle might say...
Thanks! Glad it helped, yes, my car sat on jack stand for 2 weeks until I was just sitting there stumped and poking around and ka-plunk. Of course I Was working too..so it wouldn't have sat so long if I'd had more time.
Also the 1st electric shop I went to sold me the wrong parts, before I just took it and had new brushes put in by the place that always gets it right for me, PAECO.
$25 was all it took.
Well, 25000 views later on the video, holy cow!
Thanks! Glad it helped, yes, my car sat on jack stand for 2 weeks until I was just sitting there stumped and poking around and ka-plunk. Of course I Was working too..so it wouldn't have sat so long if I'd had more time.
Also the 1st electric shop I went to sold me the wrong parts, before I just took it and had new brushes put in by the place that always gets it right for me, PAECO.
$25 was all it took.
Well, 25000 views later on the video, holy cow!
