Torque specs or wis documents needed please
11-17-2010, 02:10 AM
#26
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2003 c240
oops sorry splinter. ill get that back to you asap. Ill send it out by thursday. I had midterms past couple weeks and haven't been able to get to it.
11-17-2010, 05:21 PM
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hey John i sent it out this morning. When you get it, look inside the small box before you ship it back out to the next person. Theres a little present in there for all the troubles. And thanks again for that, your a life saver.
11-19-2010, 08:52 PM
#28
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Received today - thanks. Good thing I checked the box before shipping it out again.
Let’s just say you’ve a line of credit for whenever you want to borrow my ‘free’ tools. :y
Let’s just say you’ve a line of credit for whenever you want to borrow my ‘free’ tools. :y
07-12-2012, 11:19 PM
#30
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PLEASE NOTE!! The above photo is only half of the torque specs from the Haynes manual. On the page following you have:
This page gives you the torque specs for all of the strut bolts, as well as the Torque strut. On the prior page the "lower control arm" I believe refers to the A-arm of the 4matic suspensions, even though it doesn't clarify this. (I'm guessing this is a typo)
If someone else could confirm this I would appreciate it, as I am going to change struts and control arms on my C230 within a couple of weeks.
I also have one specific question on the strut bolt to the top of the knuckle, what is referred to in the manual as the "lower mounting nut/bolt" ... it says (1) 89 ft-lb, and (2) additional 90 degrees. This seems awfully tight to me. Can someone who has done this please say how much effort it took to make that additional 90 degree turn? Did you need to use a breaker bar? I just want to make sure I don't overtighten it.
Thanks. John
This page gives you the torque specs for all of the strut bolts, as well as the Torque strut. On the prior page the "lower control arm" I believe refers to the A-arm of the 4matic suspensions, even though it doesn't clarify this. (I'm guessing this is a typo)
If someone else could confirm this I would appreciate it, as I am going to change struts and control arms on my C230 within a couple of weeks.
I also have one specific question on the strut bolt to the top of the knuckle, what is referred to in the manual as the "lower mounting nut/bolt" ... it says (1) 89 ft-lb, and (2) additional 90 degrees. This seems awfully tight to me. Can someone who has done this please say how much effort it took to make that additional 90 degree turn? Did you need to use a breaker bar? I just want to make sure I don't overtighten it.
Thanks. John
07-13-2012, 01:02 PM
#32
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Thanks -- the wiki is nicely organized, and these instructions match my Haynes manual.
Fyi, I changed the front struts this past weekend, and I did torque that top-of-knuckle bolt/nut to 89 ft-lbs and then another 1/4 turn with a breaker bar. That last turn took a quite a bit of force and I couldn't imagine trying to tighten it much more without snapping it. But it all seems good.
Thanks. John
Fyi, I changed the front struts this past weekend, and I did torque that top-of-knuckle bolt/nut to 89 ft-lbs and then another 1/4 turn with a breaker bar. That last turn took a quite a bit of force and I couldn't imagine trying to tighten it much more without snapping it. But it all seems good.
Thanks. John
Last edited by jkowtko; 08-28-2012 at 10:16 AM.
11-24-2013, 05:15 AM
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c230
If you haven’t already separated them, you’re welcome to borrow my puller.
It’ll make quick work of it, and preserve the threads and seals for subsequent reinstallations (for bushing-only replacements).
Failing that, some deft blows with a BFH will invariably suffice.
A solid setup no doubt.
The hapless motorist who 86’d the power to our area also severed the FiOS and DSL lines. This being earthquake, wildfire and occasional riot area, our stash of provisions and ‘emergency’ supplies came in rather handy. Pleased to report the BBQ, corkscrew and candles all worked perfectly. Would have been miffed if my satellite dish and DVR missed recording the inaugural Korean Grand Prix though.
haha.
It seems splinter Jr. hauls home some newfangled iPhone, laptop or tech gadget every month; he writes programming code for kicks. Almost a miracle I can even switch on this computer. Did silently chuckle when several neighbors stopped by while working in the garage to ask, “Don’t you know the power is out?!”
It’ll make quick work of it, and preserve the threads and seals for subsequent reinstallations (for bushing-only replacements).
Failing that, some deft blows with a BFH will invariably suffice.
A solid setup no doubt.
The hapless motorist who 86’d the power to our area also severed the FiOS and DSL lines. This being earthquake, wildfire and occasional riot area, our stash of provisions and ‘emergency’ supplies came in rather handy. Pleased to report the BBQ, corkscrew and candles all worked perfectly. Would have been miffed if my satellite dish and DVR missed recording the inaugural Korean Grand Prix though.
haha.
It seems splinter Jr. hauls home some newfangled iPhone, laptop or tech gadget every month; he writes programming code for kicks. Almost a miracle I can even switch on this computer. Did silently chuckle when several neighbors stopped by while working in the garage to ask, “Don’t you know the power is out?!”
11-24-2013, 10:36 AM
#34
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BTW I got the Neiko set from Amazon --
11-24-2013, 11:32 AM
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roworld I bought an entire front end kit myself. It was just a little more than a single tool and now I have the tool for replacing both the lower and upper strut/control arm. I haven't used mine yet but will be doing the work within the next couple weeks and can let you know how they work and that they fit if you would like.
BTW I got the Neiko set from Amazon -- Neiko 5-Piece Front End Service Tool Kit Set with Storage Case - Amazon.com
BTW I got the Neiko set from Amazon -- Neiko 5-Piece Front End Service Tool Kit Set with Storage Case - Amazon.com
11-24-2013, 11:59 AM
#36
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11-24-2013, 08:03 PM
#37
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FYI I bought both of my ball joint separator tools -- the scissor type and the cup type -- from eBay tool sellers pretty cheap. I don't think I paid more than $20 for either one. And they work great.
