pistons




Don’t follow Canadian touring car racing, although I certainly admire your willingness to get after it in a M271-equipped coupé. Not going to disagree with your forensic metallurgist's findings. Note MBUSA’s policy is that the head never be surfaced in the event of measurable warping or other deck irregularities. Its casting is already woefully thin as delivered. Tossing it into the nearest recycling bin is warranted should it prove defective; it’s merely another consumable.
Several here have successfully utilized artificial aspiration of 17+ psi with their OE pistons and long-block fully intact. Barring manufacturing and operational defects, judicious tuning is imperative to help ensure reasonable service life. Machining a cast piston’s crown -save for minimal relieving to accommodate higher lift and/or longer duration camshaft timing events- is an invitation to disaster. Did you notice 427cobra’s pistons have already proven to be too weak for his circumstance? Additional peripheral deck height clearance often counterintuitively increases detonation by reducing swirl-induced quench properties.
Trust you’ll someday share the nuances behind your “10-second” E55 transplant. :y




Had to laugh, so many haters.
Reminded me of a guy who posted he'd made his own crank pulley,
removed the SC muffler, posted a nice vid of his red 02 C230 coupe,
and before we could find out how to remove the
SC muffler or what it was, he was banned for merely suggesting that
he might make more pullies and maybe he might sell them.
He never did.
That pulley eventually turned up for sale, I think here maybe.
Oh the irony.
There are some vids out there of a C230 sedan race car.
I've only seen other C230 coupe racecar, and that was the Autohauz guys car,
w/ the 2.3L. Much more robust engine.
BTW. they were selling some carbon fiber bits they had custom mfg'd and
a special racing diff and tranny, not to mention the whole car.
Nice to see someone campaigning an Orion Blue coupe!
This car is running in the cctcc world championship and we are restricted in the modifications we can make, so no turbo.
Her are a couple of pictures of piston and modifications to the compressor, and the fastest C230 on the track.

Amazing piece of machine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmNy-ajRV0U
Are there any score marks in the cylinder bore?
Can you post a top and side picture of one of the other pistons.
What spark plugs (temperature) are you using? they would need to be 1 to 2 ranges colder than standard.
Which side did the piston break? intake or exhaust side?
Have a look at this link http://www.kolbenschmidt.com.tr/pdf/...-02_en_web.pdf
Last edited by Ausmbtech; Dec 29, 2010 at 04:37 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Don’t follow Canadian touring car racing, although I certainly admire your willingness to get after it in a M271-equipped coupé. Not going to disagree with your forensic metallurgist's findings. Note MBUSA’s policy is that the head never be surfaced in the event of measurable warping or other deck irregularities. Its casting is already woefully thin as delivered. Tossing it into the nearest recycling bin is warranted should it prove defective; it’s merely another consumable.
Nonsense. Know you mean well in spite of your hellacious advice. You’re aware that the 1.8-liter M271 has a nominal compression ratio of 8.7:1, yes?
Several here have successfully utilized artificial aspiration of 17+ psi with their OE pistons and long-block fully intact. Barring manufacturing and operational defects, judicious tuning is imperative to help ensure reasonable service life. Machining a cast piston’s crown -save for minimal relieving to accommodate higher lift and/or longer duration camshaft timing events- is an invitation to disaster. Did you notice 427cobra’s pistons have already proven to be too weak for his circumstance? Additional peripheral deck height clearance often counterintuitively increases detonation by reducing swirl-induced quench properties.
Trust you’ll someday share the nuances behind your “10-second” E55 transplant.
Thanks for the advice, after the engine is back together I plan on doing more dyno work and start with something like 11 af and 25 deg timing and go from there
Are there any score marks in the cylinder bore?
Can you post a top and side picture of one of the other pistons.
What spark plugs (temperature) are you using? they would need to be 1 to 2 ranges colder than standard.
Which side did the piston break? intake or exhaust side?
Have a look at this link http://www.kolbenschmidt.com.tr/pdf/...-02_en_web.pdf
12 thou
Are there any score marks in the cylinder bore?
No score marks
Can you post a top and side picture of one of the other pistons.
Tomorrow I’ll have some picks for you
\
What spark plugs (temperature) are you using? they would need to be 1 to 2 ranges colder than standard.
I’ll check that to night.
Which side did the piston break? intake or exhaust side?
Peace missing on intake side, some melting on exhaust side
Last edited by 427cobra; Dec 30, 2010 at 09:32 AM.
Considering we do live in the states.
if it was my engine, i will try around 20-25 deg... checking egt...not enough timing = egt high, too much timing = egt high, you will see a sweet spot between too high and too low, thats the best point for reliability.
wich fuel you run un your engine ?
yvan
12 thou
Are there any score marks in the cylinder bore?
No score marks
Can you post a top and side picture of one of the other pistons.
Tomorrow I’ll have some picks for you
\
What spark plugs (temperature) are you using? they would need to be 1 to 2 ranges colder than standard.
I’ll check that to night, does someone know the original number.
Which side did the piston break? intake or exhaust side?
Peace missing on intake side, some melting on exhaust side
Have you considered getting the tops of the pistons coated with a ceramic coating. I don't think you have a tuning problem because the center of the piston has no damage. I think it's just a heat problem.
Last edited by Ausmbtech; Dec 29, 2010 at 10:48 PM.

if it was my engine, i will try around 20-25 deg... checking egt...not enough timing = egt high, too much timing = egt high, you will see a sweet spot between too high and too low, thats the best point for reliability.
wich fuel you run un your engine ?
yvan
Yes I have and I more then likely will, I’m going to put all the + on mi side.
If yes , buy some high octane fuel
if not, add 15% of toluene, it is a component of the fuel

search for rocket fuel in google...lol
in my opinion your pistons are burned from too much heat... timing too high and-or too lean.
i ran my engine with this and have GREAT result.like :
9.2 cr 21 psi of boost and too many parts of transmission broken...too much wheel spin...lost traction ... broke a rod but piston are ok
but anyway you need octane to prevent preignition and piston melting.
Hypereutectic pistons are very sensitive to preignition.
Yvan
If yes , buy some high octane fuel
if not, add 15% of toluene, it is a component of the fuel

search for rocket fuel in google...lol
in my opinion your pistons are burned from too much heat... timing too high and-or too lean.
i ran my engine with this and have GREAT result.like :
9.2 cr 21 psi of boost and too many parts of transmission broken...too much wheel spin...lost traction ... broke a rod but piston are ok
but anyway you need octane to prevent preignition and piston melting.
Hypereutectic pistons are very sensitive to preignition.
Yvan
I tried alcohol but I get those terrible headache lol.

The rules say (commercially available pump fuel) what ever that means.
LOL this is an ingredient of normal fuel !!!
premium fuel contain 10 to 30% of this

Yvan
PS : this is THE solution hihihi
I would beconsidering custom forged pistons if the rules/budget allows, otherwise definately get the piston crowns coating with a heat reflective coating.
Ths std pistons can take heat, but the extra heat you're geneating and for the long periods of time they just can't take it.
Last edited by Ausmbtech; Dec 31, 2010 at 06:45 AM.

You are not suffering detonation so octane is not your problem (although the timing might be retarding itself at the onset of knock.) so you might not be running as advanced as you wish if you still have the knock sensor in circuit.
BTW - Are you running a decent oil cooler? The oil can only cool the underside of piston crowns if it, itself is being adequately cooled. Watch bulk oil temperature & fit an oil temp gauge.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Dec 31, 2010 at 07:11 AM.




