xilley

I ve installed HID fogs yesterday, and i washed my car today, then noticed flicking on the drviver side

when the engine is not on, its perfectly fine, but when the engine is on, its starts to flicker

i went to a mall autoshop and they told me i need to tell mercedes benz to change settings to xenon on my fogs instead of stock ones

but the person that installed my fogs told me to buy another cancellor from him to fix this problem

any ideas? mall autoshop also told me that its a common problem for c230 2007?

xzstarszx

Yea I've heard that you need a resistor or go get xenon=present. If I were you I'd take it to the dealer.

cpbeasley

yep. 'Karo' has a thread on this forum that has the instructions that you'll want to take with you to the dealer. anywhere from $40-70 later, your problem will be fixed.

draz.amg

As the others mentioned, you can either get a resistor or go to the dealer and have the xenon settings set to present via STAR diagnostic.

samaritrey

how is the setting going to help the fogs? There is no setting for fogs you have to use a resistor. As for the main beams that you can do either.

xilley

as i have warranty in this car left, i was already booked for a repair on my rear defroster, you think they would do this for free? or do i have to pay on top to get this done?

the HIDs were only 100, installation was 60, now another resistor for 60-90 as i was quoted, damn
is the resistor usually an extra cost? or should the installation guy do it for free?

W203E35

I don't really know if the Xenon setting enabled will help with the flickering. If you're in Los Angeles I'll do it for you to see if it helps but your other option might be error eliminators, not that expensive and they do work.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Er...minator-3-PAIR

fookoo303

xenon setting won't help the fogs. Constant flickering is usually due to low voltage. Is the flickering slow enough that you can see it turn completely off then back on? Or is it really fast that it doesnt actually turn all the way off?

ontmiss

As I understand you have just bulb flicker with no malfuncion on display, so solution is very simple. Get 16V 3300mF capacitor and connect it between ballast and 12V power input.

Xhale707

Mine do it to stops after 5 mins.. Im starting to get annoyed by how many ppl flash me with there high's.. Pretty funny when i flash them back our high beams are so blinding!!

I get flashed almost every night =) HID lows HID foGS ftw

OneOfaKindTrini

Fogs just require a set of error cancellors. To my knowledge, XENON=Present is just for the headlights.

fookoo303

Can someone explain to me why error cancellors(resistors/caps) would resolve this issue?

From what i understand, error cancellors act as an additional load in order to draw out the additional current so that the computer doesn't read an error. Which in this case, wouldn't seem to matter since the computer isn't getting a "bulb out" warning.

I think you should put your car in dyno mode and check the voltage.

xilley

the light is on and off to the point the other side of the road will go bright and dark bright and dark LOL

i also wonder why the cancellors would do the trick?
cause i was told that it may not be enough electricity going through

today it seemed fine, i turn the engine on before turning the fogs on, and it worked * lets not jinx it *

and yeah xhale707 HID HID is win win
i got 8000k head and 6000k fogs

ontmiss

Direct Current (DC)

Steady DC
from a battery or regulated power supply,
this is ideal for electronic circuits.




Smooth DC
from a smoothed power supply,
this is suitable for some electronics.




Varying DC
from a power supply without smoothing,
this is not suitable for electronics.Direct Current (DC) always flows in the same direction, but it may increase and decrease.




A DC voltage is always positive (or always negative), but it may increase and decrease.
Electronic circuits normally require a steady DC supply which is constant at one value or a smooth DC supply which has a small variation called ripple.
Cells, batteries and regulated power supplies provide steady DC which is ideal for electronic circuits.
Power supplies contain a transformer which converts the mains AC supply to a safe low voltage AC. Then the AC is converted to DC by a bridge rectifier but the output is varying DC which is unsuitable for electronic circuits.
Some power supplies include a capacitor to provide smooth DC which is suitable for less-sensitive electronic circuits. Lamps, heaters and motors will work with any DC supply.

fookoo303

ahhh yes i forgot bout the filtering effect that caps have on voltage and inductors have on current. great explanation.

This still doesn't explain why it only flickers when the car is on. That's why i think he needs to check his voltage in dyno mode. My assumption was that maybe he alternator could be going bad and is not able to supply the 12V needed to power the ballast.

ontmiss

I tested mine on battery and that work perfect but if I connect battery charger to battery then it starts to flicker even though battery charger is set to 12A what is more then enough for HID. So when I connect capacitor it stops to flicker. I beleive same thing is happening in car. Some ballasts have capacitor inside but not all of them.

xilley

so, theres a couple of solutions..
which one is the way to go?

bheng

just get the cancellor. i have them for both low beams and fogs. and high beams. works like a charm every time.

ontmiss

It's up to you. Cancellors are plag n play with connectors. Capacitor is $0.60 each in any electonic part store, but you need to connect it yourself.

Xhale707

Your high beams.. Do you have HID HIGHS??

I wanna get 55watt HID HIGHS but my issues is when i wanna flash someone

Are they going to have to warm up first? I would think so?

OneOfaKindTrini

Do you really need HID's in your highs? Just get some phillips bulbs for your high beams.

ontmiss

Here some pics how to do it https://mbworld.org/forums/4194976-post40.html

or here post #39 and 40 https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...product-2.html

1005749

I just got my hid fogs put in 35watt 6000k and only one of them flicker. And they put a 16volt or watt w/e resistor and it's still flicking. Put car into dyno mode and it's giving put a nice 14 when cars on and around 12.3-12.6 when cars off. Idk what to do now

samaritrey

could be bad bulb or ballast. Switch bulbs and see if issue continues.

1005749

The bulbs are fine checked that already. but see the left one turns on and off around every 3sec and the right one is constant on but flickers rapid like a candle light. so i have a 35w HID kit 6000k should i just go ahead and get the error cancellors those things that plug and play between the balast and bulb? that should fix it right? because bulbs are fine, balast if fine, getting nice constant power, checked the circuit with old OEM bulbs works fine. so nothing left except to get the error cancelors or capacitors but i like the plug and play of the error code elimantor thing.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Er...minator-3-PAIR

THANKS GUYS =)