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Fuel pump help needed

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Old 01-29-2011, 06:49 PM
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Ditto 6.48 PM LOL - I too went reading!
Old 01-29-2011, 06:50 PM
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Oh, also no issues from disconnecting the battery. In fact, I only had to normalize the sunroof in STAR.
Old 01-29-2011, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Ditto 6.48 PM LOL - I too went reading!
Great minds............!
Old 01-29-2011, 06:54 PM
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Well - good news all round!! When you have some time I would be interested in why the pump failed. They have always been crimped so you have to destroy them to check.
Old 01-29-2011, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by johnand
Great minds............!
We shall not contempate the alternative
Old 01-29-2011, 07:11 PM
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I, too, am curious as to why it failed at just 83k miles. You plan to crack it open to see?
Old 01-29-2011, 09:20 PM
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glad to hear your car is running again. I guess you'll be sending the car to the body shop. With this fuel pump ordeal, we almost forgot about your stint with the armored truck :-)
Old 01-30-2011, 12:16 AM
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Glad you car is fixed John.
Old 01-30-2011, 12:44 AM
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Good to hear, johnand.

Was compelled to replace both sides on mine last year -what with the now-necessary retrofitting of AMG’s superseded hardware- to the tune of ~$1000.
At least its external filter swap is an easy 15-minute/$50 task. ;)


Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
I, too, am curious as to why it failed at just 83k miles. You plan to crack it open to see?
It is perplexing why johnand’s pump failed so soon. Although both of ours had traversed similar mileage before giving up the ghost, mine undoubtedly pressurized substantially more fuel to the injectors -given its ~18-mpg lifetime average- and been subjected to escalated on/off city drive cycles by virtue its typical operational dictates and age. Note California’s CARB-mandated gasoline blend also ostensibly contains up to 10% ethyl alcohol per LCFS edict.

Found scant little debris on its intake screen during forensic investigation. It did keep wayward refinery/filling station rust, macadam and bird droppings from the impellers, though.
The trusty DVM proved its internal armature wiring had failed.
Old 01-30-2011, 04:54 AM
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Interesting splinter - sounds as though the design of your pump is/was different to the Bosch articles that I have prised open. The ones I have opened had seized from dirt.
Old 01-31-2011, 10:35 AM
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John,

Did you use the lubricating paste that was called out in the WIS document? That stuff lists for $89.00 Not sure if I should even bother messing with it now.

Will test/dismantle the pump when I get a chance.

So you had to convert to the C55 pump and filter integrated into the sender?

I was looking at my spreadsheet and the car ran 3597 gallons of fuel through the pump until it's demise, and 1495 of it was E85.

Originally Posted by splinter
Good to hear, johnand.

Was compelled to replace both sides on mine last year -what with the now-necessary retrofitting of AMG’s superseded hardware- to the tune of ~$1000.
At least its external filter swap is an easy 15-minute/$50 task.


It is perplexing why johnand’s pump failed so soon. Although both of ours had traversed similar mileage before giving up the ghost, mine undoubtedly pressurized substantially more fuel to the injectors -given its ~18-mpg lifetime average- and been subjected to escalated on/off city drive cycles by virtue its typical operational dictates and age. Note California’s CARB-mandated gasoline blend also ostensibly contains up to 10% ethyl alcohol per LCFS edict.

Found scant little debris on its intake screen during forensic investigation. It did keep wayward refinery/filling station rust, macadam and bird droppings from the impellers, though.
The trusty DVM proved its internal armature wiring had failed.
Old 01-31-2011, 11:05 AM
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John - I presume all this paste does is allow the clamping device etc. to slip on the seal & not stretch it at any one spot??? Any microfine wax containing product that will not swell the elastomer will do that. Petroleum jelly being a good example!
Old 01-31-2011, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
John - I presume all this paste does is allow the clamping device etc. to slip on the seal & not stretch it at any one spot??? Any microfine wax containing product that will not swell the elastomer will do that. Petroleum jelly being a good example!
That is what I figured. Not sure you could possibly stretch the new seal, it is very high durometer vs the old. May just leave it alone at this point.

Just drove the car this morning, and am dumbfounded how much better it runs. I have been plagued by a hesitation problem for months now, and the idle has gotten a tad rough at times to. The hesitation is now completely gone, and the idle is butter smooth. In fact, the idle is so smooth now, I have to do a double take, as I keep thinking the engine died.

I did completely clean the MAF, air duct, TB, and filter box, and put new filters in, so that could be part of it. But, I am very pleased with the outcome regardless of how I got it.

Now, just have to reschedule my body shop appointment and get that taken care of. Just don't want to give the car up, since I just got it back
Old 01-31-2011, 04:54 PM
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I'm delighted for you. If you can smell no fumes - leave well alone. I think you have been suffering sub par fuel pressure for a while. To me it always makes our V6 engines feel hesitant & gritty.
Old 02-05-2011, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by johnand
John,

Did you use the lubricating paste that was called out in the WIS document? That stuff lists for $89.00 Not sure if I should even bother messing with it now.

Will test/dismantle the pump when I get a chance.

So you had to convert to the C55 pump and filter integrated into the sender?

I was looking at my spreadsheet and the car ran 3597 gallons of fuel through the pump until it's demise, and 1495 of it was E85.
Used a dollop of assembly lubricant. They're still leak-free.

Was compelled to replace both sides owing to age and a revised 5-pin harness incompatibly. Silly 203 470 34 94 pump has a MSRP of $1300.

It’s quite effective, though, as it’ll empty a full tank when subjected to ~100 miles of track day frivolities.
Still utilizes an inexpensive Mahle-Knecht external filter.
Old 02-07-2011, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by splinter
Used a dollop of assembly lubricant. They're still leak-free.

Was compelled to replace both sides owing to age and a revised 5-pin harness incompatibly. Silly 203 470 34 94 pump has a MSRP of $1300.

It’s quite effective, though, as it’ll empty a full tank when subjected to ~100 miles of track day frivolities.
Still utilizes an inexpensive Mahle-Knecht external filter.
John, sorry to ask Splinter a ? here.

Splinter, were you coming from a four pin to a five pin change? What is the extra wire. The four pins are the hot and ground and then the two resistance/sending wires of the float level.

Still haven't done my redo of my fuel pump do to moving duties, but may try tonight.

Ed
Old 02-07-2011, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SeaCoupe
John, sorry to ask Splinter a ? here.

Splinter, were you coming from a four pin to a five pin change? What is the extra wire. The four pins are the hot and ground and then the two resistance/sending wires of the float level.

Still haven't done my redo of my fuel pump do to moving duties, but may try tonight.

Ed
Yes, that’s exactly what mine required. The four and five pin wiring configurations...

legend:
X36/3 connector
M3 pump
B4/1 LH fuel level sensor
B4/2 RH fuel level sensor



Good luck with yours.
Old 04-05-2011, 03:36 PM
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Hey guys, looks like my luck has come to an end with my car and i will soon be needing to replace my fuel pump also. Is it possible for you to post the WIS for the job? I want to make sure that I buy everything required before I take everything apart. Also, is there anything I should be careful of before pulling the pump out? What brand of pump should I go with? Thanks in advance.
Old 04-05-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fookoo303
Hey guys, looks like my luck has come to an end with my car and i will soon be needing to replace my fuel pump also. Is it possible for you to post the WIS for the job? I want to make sure that I buy everything required before I take everything apart. Also, is there anything I should be careful of before pulling the pump out? What brand of pump should I go with? Thanks in advance.
You need this - one above is for W202

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-fuel-pump.pdf
Old 04-05-2011, 07:05 PM
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Thanks Glyn, deleted
Old 04-05-2011, 09:06 PM
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Hey - don't worry - you help lots of people
Old 04-06-2011, 04:43 PM
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2003 c240
I am trying to determine which fuel pump I need and i am seeing two different part numbers. Can someone verify which one I need to purchase for a 2003 c240?

Here are the two part numbers:
203-470-23-94
203-470-35-94
Old 04-06-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fookoo303
I am trying to determine which fuel pump I need and i am seeing two different part numbers. Can someone verify which one I need to purchase for a 2003 c240?

Here are the two part numbers:
203-470-23-94
203-470-35-94
PM me your VIN, and I'll look it up for you. If one is superceded, it will tell you the new number under the old.
Old 04-06-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by johnand
PM me your VIN, and I'll look it up for you. If one is superceded, it will tell you the new number under the old.
Thanks John. I'll PM you my VIN after class today.
Old 04-06-2011, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fookoo303
I am trying to determine which fuel pump I need and i am seeing two different part numbers. Can someone verify which one I need to purchase for a 2003 c240?

Here are the two part numbers:
203-470-23-94
203-470-35-94
The A2034702394 is the current part number for the "Delivery Unit" for you car. I would suggest a new "Seal Ring" too. Part# is A2114710579. Geez, that seal ring has been revised 3 times.


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