Fuel pump help needed
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 812
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
Are there any other parts that you recommend I should get? Also, How much fuel should I remove before opening the hatch? And do you think the Bosch unit will be okay or should i get the Pierburg?
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/w203/w203/fp.html
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,403
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Yep, siphoning is the only way. When mine died at half a tank of fuel, the fuel was still about 1" from the top of the tank, so you need to siphon before cracking the covers, or you'll get fuel inside the car.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 64
From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
My 07 has the new style rings, that are just a stainless band clamp. But, I have read by several others here, that a hammer and a screwdriver work just fine on the old lock rings.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
+1 - sorry - I should have mentioned the new and the old. I gave you methods for the old which you have.
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 812
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From: centennial, CO
2003 c240
I just wanted to give an update. I replaced the fuel pump last week and the car runs great. Idles much smoother and drives smoother. Sometimes I think the engine died mid drive because I don't feel the engine anymore.
I did replace it with the bosch unit, and it seems to work well. But the only thing im noticing is that the fuel level sensor responds much slower than the oem one. I had my car parked on a hill and when I drove off, it took a couple miles before the fuel level gauge settled down to where it actually was. Maybe it needs to broken in? I'll report back on that after a few more tanks.
I did replace it with the bosch unit, and it seems to work well. But the only thing im noticing is that the fuel level sensor responds much slower than the oem one. I had my car parked on a hill and when I drove off, it took a couple miles before the fuel level gauge settled down to where it actually was. Maybe it needs to broken in? I'll report back on that after a few more tanks.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
The fuel level displayed on the cluster is an 'average' over a period of time. I don't know the variables used in calculating that 'average'. So, I'd just monitor and see if that gets better...
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
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2007 C230 Sport
Would love to know the part number you ordered? I'm in the same exact boat here... same layout on my C203SS
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 24
From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Paid $188 for a new fuel pump from BMWmercedesparts dot com (Husker autogroup in Nebraska).
Fuel pump part number is A 209 470 02 94.
I also bought the fuel filter+sending unit (that's on the drivers side) $ 215.
A 209 470 13 94.
Fuel pump part number is A 209 470 02 94.
I also bought the fuel filter+sending unit (that's on the drivers side) $ 215.
A 209 470 13 94.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
2007 C230 Sport
I am reading this thread very keenly because I also have '07 C280 4matic with 68K miles. When I looked for the fuel filter under the car, it wasn't there. Eventually, I found out that my fuel filter is integrated as part of the fuep pump, similar to John's car. I may be next in line to replace the pump...
John, have you started opening the pump? Here is a picture of the top of the fuel pump ring nut on my car. Please look at the red arrow I drew, it's pointing to the nut that's part of the 'hose-clamp-looking' thing. I think we should be able to remove that ring nut by loosening that nut on the clamp.
John, have you started opening the pump? Here is a picture of the top of the fuel pump ring nut on my car. Please look at the red arrow I drew, it's pointing to the nut that's part of the 'hose-clamp-looking' thing. I think we should be able to remove that ring nut by loosening that nut on the clamp.
Thanks,
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
2007 C230 Sport
Sorry to hijack this post, but we are having a hell of a time removing the ring...we loosened the clamp so it will basically "spin" around the ring nut...at most we get like 1/4" of movement...we have tried renting the universal fuel pump removal tool from Autozone, a chissel and hammer at the split, a home made 4 prong tool (need to revisit that one,,,the all thread keeps bending so we are going to try hardened bolts) and its driving us NUTS!!! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Last edited by sporta; May 24, 2017 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Didn't realize I was replying to my own post LOL.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
From: Mauritius
Mercedes-Benz C200K
Guys,
My 2001 W203 is always slow to start, 2 & 1/2 turn. Sometimes when i release the key early, the engine will start! But not always. So i was thinking that MAYBE there's an issue with the fuel pump, not sending enough fuel when cranking the engine. Anyone can help me on that. Any advice will be much appreciated.
My 2001 W203 is always slow to start, 2 & 1/2 turn. Sometimes when i release the key early, the engine will start! But not always. So i was thinking that MAYBE there's an issue with the fuel pump, not sending enough fuel when cranking the engine. Anyone can help me on that. Any advice will be much appreciated.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,276
Likes: 172
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Yeah, fuel pressure. You can buy a kit from Harbor fright (Hey it's Halloween eh?)
for like $20 OR you can actually borrow one for free from OReilly or AutoZone
(definitely OReilly) .
Small suggestion, rather than try to connect to the fuel rail with it under pressure, or
bleeding off the pressure and spraying fuel everywhere, pull the fuse
from inside the trunk, then turn over till it uses the existing pressure in the line and dies.
If you don't have a fuse diagram, they are around here to download.
I think it's #7. Ha, I pulled it, had my car stored at my sisters, and pulled it so my
nephew wouldn't take it for a joy ride.
Then connect and test. Should be I think 55 lbs?
Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Thats an every 60K mile sort of thing.
As far turning the key, that whole process is via the canbus, so, hmmm....
could be the solenoid is getting slow. How many miles on the starter?
I got about 140K out of my starter and 200K out of my fuel pump, while replacing the filter
on the correct intervals.
for like $20 OR you can actually borrow one for free from OReilly or AutoZone
(definitely OReilly) .
Small suggestion, rather than try to connect to the fuel rail with it under pressure, or
bleeding off the pressure and spraying fuel everywhere, pull the fuse
from inside the trunk, then turn over till it uses the existing pressure in the line and dies.
If you don't have a fuse diagram, they are around here to download.
I think it's #7. Ha, I pulled it, had my car stored at my sisters, and pulled it so my
nephew wouldn't take it for a joy ride.
Then connect and test. Should be I think 55 lbs?
Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Thats an every 60K mile sort of thing.
As far turning the key, that whole process is via the canbus, so, hmmm....
could be the solenoid is getting slow. How many miles on the starter?
I got about 140K out of my starter and 200K out of my fuel pump, while replacing the filter
on the correct intervals.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Oct 31, 2017 at 04:39 PM.
