C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Check Engine Light: 6 CODES!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #51  
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'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Originally Posted by Javvy
......
but since we are on fuel octane levels out here in NJ we do no get 91, the 3 grades avaliable are 87, 89 & 93.......obviously 93 would be fine but If I want just for hypothicaly reason fill 91 where should I get it I have read some discussion's on mixing fuels like half tank 89 + half tank 93 will give me 91.......well if we really want to go by the specs we should all be filling 91 well thats what mercedes recommends CORRECT????
Javvy
The following is an excerpt from the Owner's manual (page 272 of '07 C280 manual):
"Only use premium unleaded gasoline with a minimum Posted Octane Rating of 91 (average of 96 RON/86 MON)."

The key word here is "minimum". MB is suggesting the required octane is 91 OR HIGHER. So, 93 is absolutely fine.

Last edited by pcy; Feb 8, 2011 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #52  
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Thanks for the clarification PCY...........
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #53  
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Vaugely related to the octane discussion:

A couple of years ago Metro-Atlanta jumped from a 10 cent difference between grades to a 15 cent difference. I've been meaning to ask....is it the same for the rest of you? Or is it still 10 cents between grades?

(i.e. 87 $2.90, 89 $3.00, 93 $3.10 vs. 87 $2.90, 89 $3.05, 93 $3.20 )
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #54  
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2001 E55 AMG (sold)
Originally Posted by MW_ATL
Vaugely related to the octane discussion:

A couple of years ago Metro-Atlanta jumped from a 10 cent difference between grades to a 15 cent difference. I've been meaning to ask....is it the same for the rest of you? Or is it still 10 cents between grades?

(i.e. 87 $2.90, 89 $3.00, 93 $3.10 vs. 87 $2.90, 89 $3.05, 93 $3.20 )
I've been complaining to everyone about this too. It happened post-Katrina if I recall. When I travel outside north Georgia, I often see 10c difference in grades still. I swear, its collusion between the station owners. A frickin cartel is what it is!

BTW, I've owned 4 vehicles in a row that require premium fuel (going back to about 1997), so this is nothing new to me. 20c extra is fine. 30c is pushing it. Some stations (esp Cheveron) often hike it up to 60c extra for premium!

Last edited by billbillw; Feb 8, 2011 at 11:43 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #55  
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'03 c230k ss
simple solution:

go to no name gas station and fill up on premium fuel for less.

at every 3k mark add techron.

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by M.L.X.
simple solution:

go to no name gas station and fill up on premium fuel for less.

at every 3k mark add techron.

In Metro ATL, the no-name stations are not really any cheaper than Quick Trip or BP. Shell is hit or miss depending on location. Cheveron and Texaco seem to be higher, especially for Premium. Actually, there are very few no-name stations. If its not one of the above, then its RaceTrack or Marathon which are not appreciably cheaper. Sam's Club is possibly a cheaper alternative if you are a member and Kroger is also a bit cheaper if you shop there and get the 10c discount. We shop there, but I usually let my wife take the discount when she fills the Honda van. QT is usually my choice.

Also, I try not to fill at the really small stations because you run a much greater chance of getting a bad batch of gas from the little guys due to their lower turnover.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #57  
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From: SoCal
'03 c230k ss
Originally Posted by billbillw
In Metro ATL, the no-name stations are not really any cheaper than Quick Trip or BP. Shell is hit or miss depending on location. Cheveron and Texaco seem to be higher, especially for Premium. Actually, there are very few no-name stations. If its not one of the above, then its RaceTrack or Marathon which are not appreciably cheaper. Sam's Club is possibly a cheaper alternative if you are a member and Kroger is also a bit cheaper if you shop there and get the 10c discount. We shop there, but I usually let my wife take the discount when she fills the Honda van. QT is usually my choice.

Also, I try not to fill at the really small stations because you run a much greater chance of getting a bad batch of gas from the little guys due to their lower turnover.
ah... that's too bad. price gauging... even the no name guys...

note: what I mean by "no name" are any stations that are not the big, huge names like Chevron, Shell, ect.

local gas station around my house is around 30 to 40 cents cheaper per gallon then the big boys.
needless to say, there is always a huge line at the pump because of the savings.
because of high volume turn over, I don't have to worry about getting a bad batch usually.

anyway, if the prices are the same, I'd stick to the big names. why not?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 01:02 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by billbillw
I've been complaining to everyone about this too. It happened post-Katrina if I recall. When I travel outside north Georgia, I often see 10c difference in grades still. I swear, its collusion between the station owners. A frickin cartel is what it is!

BTW, I've owned 4 vehicles in a row that require premium fuel (going back to about 1997), so this is nothing new to me. 20c extra is fine. 30c is pushing it. Some stations (esp Cheveron) often hike it up to 60c extra for premium!
I only know of 1 station in my area that has 20c difference between regular and premium, a Shell station. I use it frequently because the VPower is as cheap as other places 89.

Chevron stations in my area (all 3) have it structured 2.99 3.29 3.69. I refuse to buy from them, but I do use Techron concentrate.

The worst offender in my area is a Citgo station in Rome, GA. 3.09 3.49 3.99.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #59  
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'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Javvy,

As pointed out by other member (on a different thread), we DON'T need to remove the oil cooler and the PS reservoir to replace the drivers side Camshaft adjuster magnets/solenoids. Use (appropriate size) 12-sided-box wrench to remove the bolts on those adjuster magnets. This method is much simpler.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 01:29 PM
  #60  
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thanks pcy this really helps and makes this job much more easier.........now I dont have to disturb the coolant and will return the oil cooler seal.........lol........
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #61  
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Great transfer of info pcy - we have a good bunch on this W203 forum
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #62  
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Use 1/4" size 12-sided box wrench to remove the small bolts on the camshaft position adjuster solenoids on the drivers side. I've just tried and 1/4" 12-sided wrench fits perfectly. The only problem is that the 1/4" wrench I have is only 4" long. You will need to attach another longer wrench for better leverage or buy a longer 1/4" 12-sided wrench.

Good luck Javvy.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 09:15 AM
  #63  
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SUCCESS, SUCCESS, SUCCESS.....THANK YOU...THANK YOU...THANK YOU...THANK YOU...CANT SAY ENOUGH ON THIS.

Would like to personally thank you all for saving me S H I T load of money. Complete job done in 45 minutes total cost for the magnets ~$75(including shipping) tool used a 12 sided box wrench size 1/4 as advised by PCY, will return the gasket and get my $20 back from the dealer...lolol....reset code drove 52 miles today NO CEL.........HURRAY.......

Would like to THANK EXCLUSIVELY.....Phister, Oneofakindtrini, Glyn, PCY, cpbeasley, karo and the wounderful thread by Johnand. Thank you PCY for talking to me over the phone and making me confortable to tackle this job with confidence...turst me it helps.

Of cousre I broke all the tabs on the plugs those darn plugs............

2 things to lookout for..........

DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE OLD GASKET I LEARNED IT THE HARD WAY HAD TO REDO ONE MAGNET

BE SUPER CAREFULL WHEN LOOSINING THE BOLTS BY HAND AND DO NOT DROP THEM, IF YOU DO THEN THEY WILL BE LOST IN TH ENGINE BAY OR WORST YOU WILL HAVE TO HUNT THEM AND MIGHT INVOLVE REMOVING THE DREADED ENGINE PLATE AT THE BOTTOM, SO HAVE A MAGNETIC ANTENNA TYPE TOOL HANDY JUST IN CASE.

All in all time well spent and now hoping that the MPG's will come back to normal. You know the funny thing is that from the time that I posted this to the time I got a solution from you folks was just ~ 8hrs and I knew exactly what I was dealing with.........just super AMAZING............

KEEP IT UP GUYS!!!!!!!!


JAVVY
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #64  
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Glad to see your car back on the road with no CEL.

If you had gone to the dealer, you'd be $500 short by now. (1 hour labor for diagnosis, at least $200 for 4 adjuster solenoids, 1 to 2 hours of labor for replacing those 3 solenoids, plus taxes). On the bright side, you would've gotten free coffee from them :-)
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #65  
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yea you said it right, free coffee, the 10 course breakfast/lunch's and dont forget the free shoe polished (ray Catena)....the one time that I was there man swear to god I SHAT in my pants and this thought flashed through my head..............."OH MY GOD; AM I PAYING FOR ALL THIS S H I T"....talk about over board......all that was missing was a pimp with some ******...............lolololol........and people really think they are being treated good...........never fathom the fact that they are ones paying for all the extravagance...........
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #66  
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Pleased you have it fixed.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #67  
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Just a random note. My roomie refuses to put anything else than 98 octane on his 2004 Audi S4. I think it's a bit overkill, I seriously doubt he'll have detonation running his car on 93, but whatever.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #68  
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I never owned an Audi car. What is the minimum Octane level required for 2004 Audi S4? General rule of thumb is to go with the minimum required by the manufacturer. Anything over the required minimum is you supporting gas station owner's family :-)
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #69  
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I'd be willing to bet that Audi has 91 octane minimum requirements. I'm not sure if there are any stock street-legal cars in the US that require anything higher than 91, which is the highest grade you can get in many areas.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #70  
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Audi's minimum requirement is 91 AKI / 95 RON
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #71  
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Good news Javvy, glad you got it fixed! Those pesky magnets s
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #72  
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"annoyance" and "self-righteousness", amoung others...
Originally Posted by pcy
I never owned an Audi car. What is the minimum Octane level required for 2004 Audi S4? General rule of thumb is to go with the minimum required by the manufacturer. Anything over the required minimum is you supporting gas station owner's family :-)
I get your point, but actually... after having formerly dated and (for a short time being engaged to the heiress to a local gas station chain fortune, the money is definitely NOT in the retail sale of gasoline. At best they make .03 cents a gallon. The money is in the crap inside.


Javvy -- hooray! good job bro
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #73  
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Hers - 2003 C320. His - 2004 330i zhp 6 speed.
Organizing my DIY collection - can this happen on a 2003 320? If yes, this thread will be saved
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #74  
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"annoyance" and "self-righteousness", amoung others...
It's not an issue with the 320
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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C320 has M112 engine. This problem is relevant for M272 engine.
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