Javvy

Hi Guys,

I finally pulled the codes on the check engine light that my 07-C280 4matic was throwing, here they are all 6 of them in sequence. currently I am at 62K miles and juts change the oil and performed service b. I Use regular gas and ocassionally would pour the Valvoline additive on a full tank of gas. No problem on start up nor in engine drivability or performance

1.P2188-System too rich at idle speed (bank 1)
2.P2190-System too rich at idle speed (bank 2)
3.P0022-Cam Shaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over retard
4.P0015-Cam Shaft position actuator B - Bank 1 timing over retard
5.P2188-System too rich at idle speed (bank 1)...pd(don't know why this "pd" showed up on this one)
6.P2190-System too rich at idle speed (bank 2)...pd(don't know why this "pd" showed up on this one)

Any help, or link to previous post that have been already discussed on this topic would be helpful.

Appreciate all your help.

Javvy

97W202

always use premium man GL!

phister

Dannng... hmmm running to rich. Might be your MAF sensor or your cam sensor. Glyn will probably chime in and throw in his good ideas.

OneOfaKindTrini

You dont put normal 87 in this car bro. It's optimized for premium 93. People that do this seriously upset me, you can afford to buy the car, yet you wont put the right fuel.. Let the ECU reset.

sinister55

your lack of higher octane is the problem and your knocksensor is bugging oit because of this.
This can lead to other problems such as internal wearing happens at a faster rate and ur cams are not going to like ajusting so much and that sensor may have problems

billbillw

Common, its probably less than $5 per tank difference for premium. Is it worth ruining your engine?

draz.amg

You can get by with putting low quality gas in a Japanese car, but putting it in a Benz will just ruin the engine. Hopefully you can get the issues resolved.

Glyn M Ruck

Replace the camshaft sensor MAGNETS - do all 4 - known M272 problem & cheap - do not replace the sensors!. See Johnand's thread for detail.

Do this first - cancel all codes & see what - if anything returns.

If fuel trim - running rich codes return then clean MAF. It is extremely unlikely that you have O2 sensor failure at your mileage & unlikely that both banks would fail at the same time.

Use premium fuel - Only use Techron additive.

OneOfaKindTrini

.. Really? Honda's require 93, EVO's, STi's, G35/7's also requre 93.

Sorry man I just had to do it.

draz.amg

Should have been more clear.. not alluding to the newer gen Japanese cars. The majority of them, you can get away with not putting premium in them.

phister

Even 97-02 honda preludes require 93. But do as glyn recommended

Glyn M Ruck

See this thread

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...mshaft+magnets

Javvy - we were on a learning curve on this thread. See later postings in thread where John nailed down the magnet problem.

EDIT - DO NOT spray any silicone containing products anywhere near the engine. If the engine ingests the silicone it will immediately poisen the O2 sensors.

pcy

When you actually compare the cost of 100 miles with 93 octane vs. cost of 100 miles with 87 octane, it comes out about the same. Let me explain. The above is true because the MPG you'd get when you use 93 octane is about 2 to 3 MPG more than if you were to use 87 octane. When you use 87 octane knock sensor will detect the engine knocking and the ECU will retard the timing accordingly - as a result, fuel efficiency goes down. You will not 'hear' anything unusual because the knock sensor is doing it's job.

Summary - people think they are saving money by pouring 87 gas in to a car that REQUIRES [by the manufacturer] 93 octane gas due to high compression ratio. In the long run, you are actually ruining the engine. This is NOT a debate. If you'd like to pour 83 octane (or kerosene) in your MB engine, please continue. :-)

samaritrey

+1
If you can't afford 91-93 octane you have no business driving a Mercedes. I say the same thing for people in my area who like to drive on bald tires if you can't afford tires then you should not be driving until you can.

pcy

back to helping Javvy with multiple error codes...

As other members suggested, please change the Camshaft adjuster magnets (NOT sensors) - at minimum the 2 magnets corresponding to the codes, while you are at it, you might as well change all 4 and forget about them for a while.

After changing the Camshaft adjuster magnets, reset the codes and we can go from there.

On my '07 C280 I changed the camshaft adjuster magnets recently. Replacing the magnets (or sensors) on the passenger side is relatively easy. Drivers side replacement will require other parts to be removed (like the oil cooler and the power steering fluid reservoir) to access the bolts.

If you need any help changing those magnet, let me know.

Javvy

thanks for all the inputs guys, will be switihciong to premium ASAP.......PCY you have a message in your PM please respond when you get a chance....

Folks what is the part number for teh sensor..........here is one that i found on rockauto can i buy this?? will this work....

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7196

Pllase let me know..

javvy

cpbeasley

DOH!!!

The CAMSHAFT MAGNETS Javvy. Not any sensor. Especially a CRANKshaft sensor. Look at John's thread and pull the appropriate PN for the magnets.

Javvy

so mine is a M272 enigne and this is the part number A2720510177 and I need 4 of these correct, about to buy em just verifying.....

OneOfaKindTrini

Sorry to jack but you still have those spacers f/s?

Javvy

no man trini, the spacers are sold only the lugs are left.............ok guys back top topic.........just bought 4 of the magnets, now for the instructions on locatioon on these babies.............PCY's pm just popped...........keep it coming guys.......

thankx in advance...

javvy

pcy

Javvy, I just replied to your PM.
Considering there is no shipping charge for orders over $75 from RMeuropean.com, this is the best price ($22 for each adjuster magnet).

Javvy

juts spoke to PCy great help, now I know what I have to do, parts are ordered, will pick up some coolant and am all set to this job. Thankx all for getting this dignosed for me. Appreciate all your help.

Thankx Again to PCY for taking my call and guiding me on this job, hopefully I will document this and will have a nice DIY for all to follow.

Thank You all will keep you all posted on the progress...

Javvy

pcy

Javvy,

As I explained, when you try to replace one of the adjuster magnets on the drivers side, the oil cooler will be in your way. So, you will have to open the oil cooler. When you open the oil cooler, little bit of oil comes out, but more importantly, lots of coolant (most of the coolant from the coolant reservoir) comes out - be prepared with a gallon of MB coolant or Zerex-G05. I'd suggest you to buy the gasket that goes between the oil filter canister and oil cooler, part # 15 in the picture below.

For the second adjuster magnet on the drivers side, the PS fluid reservoir comes in the way of the bottom bolt of the adjuster magnet. You will have to, at minimum, loosen the PS reservoir and pull it towards the radiator and work your way around.

OneOfaKindTrini

Hey thnks for letting me know bro, if you want I can make a basic video on it tomorow with what you need to change it.

cpbeasley

Good luck Javvy!!

To anyone still listening, is this something I should change preventatively or just wait and see if it happens?