yup i have few friends that swears by them as well. a good tire for the most part for daily driving.

I just replaced my General and they lasted about 43K miles. The fronts were not on the wear bars but the sholders were gone. I got those Mich. Pilot Sport A/S plus. Hopefully they are worth the money. You can't go wrong with the Gerneral UHP's though.

I got the Pirelli Neros cause I was getting a better deal on those than any other tire. $936 mounted and balanced I checked Tirerack and just the tires alone were $1218.

235/35-19
265/30-19

I am getting tire rub when I take sharp turns and hit dips but it's only on the rear left. They guy said he will specially machine the 7mm to 5mm since Lorinser doesn't have 5mm and if it still rubs then he will roll the fender for me.

do not let them machine the spacers. just roll your fender/trim the plastic tabs from the impact stripe.

total: $792 great tires..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2NEW-...4506.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-NEW...spagenameZWD1V

Thanks Frank, Is there a specific reason to avoid machining the spacers?

Whats funny is I had the old 12mm spacers and I told the guy "maybe I can machine them" he said "You’ll still have the wrong size bolts, and Lorinser only sells them as a set. Personally, I would stick to Lorinser hardware to avoid risking problems."

And now he wants to machine them lol

Thanks for the info, I'll just have it rolled.

I think Nittos will go better for you car (C32). The reason I say this is because I heard Nittos are for dragging and a car like my car barely brakes traction.

But I heard other than Dry these tires are pretty bad.

From a website this is what it says in small font lol

NOTE: These are extreme ultra high performance summer specific compound and tread tires. Use during the summer and warm temperature months will result in far superior traction over “all season” tires. Use during the winter months/cold temperatures drastically reduces traction and exponentially increases stopping distance as the compound becomes less sticky.

So does this mean thread will last not as long as other tires?

Does anyone have info on them?

7mm is already pretty thin as is. plus even machining 2mm off you still need to roll the fender.

Makes sense, Thanks Again

for one $1k, i would've just paid an extra $200 and bought the ps2's. When you said cheap i thought you were looking closer to $600. As for summer tires, any decently design summer tire can handle southern california rain. We're talking about a region that barely gets 8in's of rainfall per yr. And when it does rain it barely rains above a inch. If you lived in washington or oregon then yeah it would be different story.

I don't know what happened to my thread but I took it to the shop today, they couldnt really roll the fenders so the idiots took off the 7mm spacers in the back and refunded me 260.00

I told them is it going to hit the shock he said no that they checked and it is not going to.

So now my rear wheels aren't out as much (7mm)

are the goodyear eagle f1 asymmetric the same ballpark?

there cheaper then the ps2's so there a better deal.

ive gotten some feedback from Glyn.

whats your take on these tires in terms of performance and affordability, etc?

you should PM frankw, i've never actually driven on them to tell you a honest opinion. From what i read, the ps2's are the best in terms of traction but are over priced and the f1's are almost as good but not as overpriced.

I plan on upgrading to them in the future, but i might pick up a set of t1r's though. Since i'm having trouble putting my power to the ground and lot of the corvette guys seem to swear by the t1r's or ps2's.

come on dude, performance? no tire, not even the mighty PS2's is going to make a C230 into an AMG.

I wouldn't waste my money putting PS2's on my C230. the car simply can't take advantage of them. I have the F1 Asymmetrics (had the GS-D3's on them prior) and they are more than good enough. that being said, I wouldn't put some cheap brand either.

yeah, that was my dilemma, hence why im doing a loada research...

are your f1's quiet and long lasting with good tread life?>

"they're" = "they are"

come on Mike, from what you've read? no offense, but you have to feel the difference in real life. you can read all the reviews that you want, but once you put them on, that's a whole new story. since you've never tried them, I don't think you can make the first statement that they're a "better deal."

sure, the tires are overpriced, but many people buy them and love them. you gotta pay to play.

I had the stock Continental ContiSportContact2 on my M3 and they were ***. when I switched over to the PS2's, the difference was night and day. the PS2's were quite worth it. sure, I paid over $1400 for tires, but to me, that was money well spent.

as for the T1-R's, I wouldn't even put those on my C230. I had the T1-S back in the day and they were pretty bad--noisy and poor grip come to mind.

I switched from the GS-D3's to the Asymmetrics recently b/c I wanted to try the Asymmetrics. they're very good so far. I would say that they're quieter as well. the GS-D3's were great, especially for the price. it took about 2 years and over 35k miles for the GS-D3's to wear out.

I got the Asymmetrics for about $900 + install (from a vendor that gets them from Tirerack). I wouldn't shell out an extra $500 or so for PS2's for the C230.

have the PS2 and had the GS-D3. other than the GS-D3 a little harder to predict limit they're virtually on par. and had numerous other tires.

I would just go with something cheaper for 230.

I'll be going with Hankook S1 EVO when the PS2's gone, but then again I like to try out different tires.

Phil, thats why i said to PM frankw since he's had both. These tires are too expensive to try and throw away, hence you can only go off what you read. Lot of well respected forum members have stated that the f1's are a good alternative to the ps2's. The goodyear f1's are going for $222 for by tirerack pricing versus $336, which makes it $114 x 4 = $456 dollar difference.

In this economy i'd rather save the $456 if i can have near the same performance of the ps2's.

Some people want the absolute best performance and doesn't care about the price. I'll take the tire that one step down but is a lot cheaper or has the best value.

I can spend $850 on a LET 185 pulley and get an addition 40-60whp, so spending close to $1400 on just tires seems like hard nut to swallow.

I'm sorta in the same boat as rocafela, i'm just telling him the results of my research.

Just wanted to post my experience with my tires. For background this is on a 2007 C230 with OEM 17x7.5 front wheels and 17x8.5 rear wheels. NOTE Since I am in the NW and drive my car year round, I need a tire that can handle sub zero temperatures, some light to moderate snow, and lot's of good old rain. Car is driven 85-90% highway.

OEM tires: Michelin Pilot Primacy's - 225/45-17 front, 245/40-17 rear, 240 Treadwear rating. Ratings 1-10:

Dry grip: 5
Wet grip: 3
Steering response: 5

Overall, I'd give these a poor rating. The rear lasted 21,200 miles. The tread was measured just over 2/32". The fronts were measured at 7/32" at this time. The ride was decently compliant, and they were quiet for the first 3k miles, then they got loud really fast. At temps below 35 degrees, these were downright scary. Snow traction was NONE (Not surprisingly, though.) Dry traction was decent, wet was not so good (ESP very active when wet, and tires hydroplaned pretty badly). Steering response was ok, and the tires were fairly predictable at the limit.

1st rear replacement: Goodyear Eagle F1 A/S - Bumped up to 255/40-17. 400 Treadwear rating. Paid $443 for the 2 new rear tires installed and re balancing of the fronts.

Dry Grip: 7
Wet Grip: 7
Steering Response: N/A

Since I replaced just the rears and left the Pilot Primacy's on front it is a little harder to rate this tire. 1st, it is much quieter than Primacy's and stays that way for the most part. Much improved wet and dry traction over the Primacy's. Wet and Dry traction are pretty even on this tire. Much less hydroplaning and ESP interaction in wet. Excellent snow traction and sub freezing temperature handling. Slightly stiffer ride than the Primacy's. Was hoping for much longer treadlife for a 400 treadwear tire, as these were shot, measured right at 2/32" at 19,010 miles. That is a hair over 2K less miles than the 240 treadwear rated Primacy's. Just a little note, gas mileage was down on average .3 to .4 MPG with these tires and acceleration was decreased slightly due to the larger size and heavier weight.

Full replacement set: Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus. Back to the OEM 225/45-17 front and 245/40-17 rear. Treadwear rating on these is 500. Paid $775.96 out the door at Costco with coupon. Note: These have a 45K mileage warranty, but is void on staggered tire setup, as it requires regular rotations,

Dry grip: 9
Wet grip 9
Steering response: 9

Wow, these tires are fantastic! Even though the OEM Primacy front tires had 4/32" tread left at 40,210 miles, I wanted them gone and plus the Costco coupon was for a set of 4. I have about 6K miles on these now through all types of weather. These tires have outstanding wet, dry, and snow traction. They are definitely a step up from the Goodyear Eagle F1 A/S, and are in a completely different league compared to the Primacy's. They are just slightly louder than the Goodyears, and noticeably stiffer, but not harsh. There is no mistake these are a Ultra High Performance A/S tire. I personally like the added stiffness. At 6K miles the rear is just under 8/32", so these "might" beat the Primacy's for treadlife.

Hey guys,

I was wondering what I should do:
(I've done a search beforehand of course, but couldn't quite find a right fit for my situation)

So for the past... thousand miles or so I've noticed a weird 'shredding' effect on my tire.

The front left tire to be exact.

They're pirelli p6's all-season
I don't know the size and etc, but they're on the stock rims of my '06 c280 if that helps.

All of the other tires are perfectly fine, no wear or shredding.

The shredding pattern:

|-U-|

So that's the tire diagram I'll use to give a preliminary idea
(I'll take photos when the sun is out tomorrow)

the | represents the end of the tire, so you're looking at a vertical tire
the U in the middle is the.. middle of the tire
and the -'s are the treads.
So the wear is towards the left - and right -'s
They seem as though it was being dug into by a fork, horizontally. so it'd look something like...

-= |-U-| 3-

The middle is once again the tire, and the two new things -= and 3- is my representation of what it would look like if something were to dig into the treads.

I hope I'm being as clear as possible, but what do you guys think it is?

Oh yeah, I have service A coming up in ~26days.

So what should I do?

Thanks,

are you still wearing factory equipped rims appropriate for your model/yr?
or did you swap them for different set? (wondering if your ET is too low
and the wheel lip is making contact with the outer edge of the tire)

That sounds like the tires are feathering. Have you had an alignment recently? If not, I would suggest getting one because that is probably your issue.