Trying to diagnose my problem.
#1
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01' C32o
Trying to diagnose my problem.
Hey guys!
It's been a while since I've posted, but this new problem has been perplexing me.
Backstory: I was cleaning my car, everything was fine and dandy until I finished my interior. After using Meguiars on my dash, and around my ignition, I tried to start it up. It didn't move. It happened suddenly, and I had to lift my rear with a jack and push it into my garage.
Alright, basically my key doesn't turn in the ignition. It won't go into any position, but I could put it in, and pull it out. The first few days, my key would not activate my easy access seats. But after about two weeks, it finally works. Well, the seats and steering wheel that is. So I'm wondering, maybe my EIS isn't bad and it's just the key? I mean, it happened out of nowhere, so randomly. My car has never acted this way! I followed directions on the forum, doing stuff like unplugging my battery, and replugging it, leaving my key in the ignition so it could charge overnight, cleaning the infrared sensors, and just straight up waiting.
I'm getting my spare key mailed to me at the moment, so I'm kinda anxious, and I hope it will work before I tow it to the dealership. And if worse comes to worse, is there a gear release function on our cars? I can't move the gear into neutral to get towed, and I'm scared of what might happen when the time comes.
So my whole point is: Is it possible that it's just my key? Or does these symptoms point to the EIS? Maybe it's something else like the alternator? Any help is appreciated, I've searched all over the forums.
It's been a while since I've posted, but this new problem has been perplexing me.
Backstory: I was cleaning my car, everything was fine and dandy until I finished my interior. After using Meguiars on my dash, and around my ignition, I tried to start it up. It didn't move. It happened suddenly, and I had to lift my rear with a jack and push it into my garage.
Alright, basically my key doesn't turn in the ignition. It won't go into any position, but I could put it in, and pull it out. The first few days, my key would not activate my easy access seats. But after about two weeks, it finally works. Well, the seats and steering wheel that is. So I'm wondering, maybe my EIS isn't bad and it's just the key? I mean, it happened out of nowhere, so randomly. My car has never acted this way! I followed directions on the forum, doing stuff like unplugging my battery, and replugging it, leaving my key in the ignition so it could charge overnight, cleaning the infrared sensors, and just straight up waiting.
I'm getting my spare key mailed to me at the moment, so I'm kinda anxious, and I hope it will work before I tow it to the dealership. And if worse comes to worse, is there a gear release function on our cars? I can't move the gear into neutral to get towed, and I'm scared of what might happen when the time comes.
So my whole point is: Is it possible that it's just my key? Or does these symptoms point to the EIS? Maybe it's something else like the alternator? Any help is appreciated, I've searched all over the forums.
#2
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There's a secret trans release switch hidden in the cup holder area. If you have a flip out upholder, with it closed, find the little indent in it towards the center console up pull up firmly to remove the cup holder. Then, get something at LEAST 8 - 10 inches long and no thicker than a sharpie. Now open the armrest, not the first compartment but the deep one, then move the lid to the cupholder about half way closed and they're will be a hold under the lid about a half inch off center towards the passenger seat. Insert the long object into this hole until it stops. You should then be able to shift the car into any gear without the key, or electricity. Hope this helps
#4
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Have you
tried charging the battery?
Maybe you had some drain while cleaning it and ran the battery down.
Stuck in park procedure is in your owners manual if charging the battery is not the cure.
10amps overnight use the underhood charging post and a good negative connection
Maybe you had some drain while cleaning it and ran the battery down.
Stuck in park procedure is in your owners manual if charging the battery is not the cure.
10amps overnight use the underhood charging post and a good negative connection
#6
Super Moderator
Mu - Not sure on your American spec car. But my car & mleskovar's - which is same as yours I think - you prise out the coin holder to access the lever block release. If you don't have a manual see stickies above & download.
Listen to ohlord & make sure you have enough power. It sounds as though the key is not achieving a handshake with the EIS. This could be because the EIS is not energising the key inductively or that the key has failed. Hope your spare works. Hope you are not in for an EIS swap.
Check fuse number 57 - power to EIS
Coils in picture energise the key. Sometimes wire breaks & sometimes they just burn out. It is a very fine winding.
Have you spayed any water based product into the EIS unit?
Listen to ohlord & make sure you have enough power. It sounds as though the key is not achieving a handshake with the EIS. This could be because the EIS is not energising the key inductively or that the key has failed. Hope your spare works. Hope you are not in for an EIS swap.
Check fuse number 57 - power to EIS
Coils in picture energise the key. Sometimes wire breaks & sometimes they just burn out. It is a very fine winding.
Have you spayed any water based product into the EIS unit?
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-02-2011 at 09:40 AM.
#7
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I'd try using an electrical contact type cleaner on a cotton swab, and clean out the key hole really well. My first impression was that you gunked that up.
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01' C32o
Hey guys,
Thanks for the advice! Would rubbing alcohol work as a electrical contact cleaner? Or goof off? I don't have a car so I wouldn't be able to go to any specialty stores around here. I'm thinking this might be the cause, because I did spray Meguiar's quick detailer in and around the area.
Glyn: Should I swap it out with a 20a? I remember seeing some threads where they added a higher amp fuse.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!
Thanks for the advice! Would rubbing alcohol work as a electrical contact cleaner? Or goof off? I don't have a car so I wouldn't be able to go to any specialty stores around here. I'm thinking this might be the cause, because I did spray Meguiar's quick detailer in and around the area.
Glyn: Should I swap it out with a 20a? I remember seeing some threads where they added a higher amp fuse.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it!
#10
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Rubbing alcohol is usually fine is there is no active current, and you give it time to evaporate. Does anyone know if there is active current on this area?
#15
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Crap - don't go to larger value fuse. Not a good idea.
When are you getting your spare key?
Pull fuse 57 before spraying contact cleaner etc around there. Part of the EIS is always hot if the battery is connected.
When are you getting your spare key?
Pull fuse 57 before spraying contact cleaner etc around there. Part of the EIS is always hot if the battery is connected.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-02-2011 at 05:13 PM.
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01' C32o
Bad news about key; my ex lost it.
Do you recommend pulling the battery.
#17
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You can pull the battery - just be careful. Remember early SAM's are a little fragile.
#18
You might have to put some force when you insert your key.
Just insert your key and if it doesn't make contact trying applying some force in with the same fingers that you use to insert your keys.
Had the same problem with my car, and if your listings are correct you have an 01 and from what I'm told, the EIS seem to have a lifespan on connections. I'm not too sure thought.
Good luck.
P.S. Glyn, my lawyer will be forwarding you the paperwork for the plagiarism infraction.
Just insert your key and if it doesn't make contact trying applying some force in with the same fingers that you use to insert your keys.
Had the same problem with my car, and if your listings are correct you have an 01 and from what I'm told, the EIS seem to have a lifespan on connections. I'm not too sure thought.
Good luck.
P.S. Glyn, my lawyer will be forwarding you the paperwork for the plagiarism infraction.
#19
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Yeah! I steal pics from the forum shamelessly if they help members. I keep copies of useful pics but never record who posted them
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#21
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Have you tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key? Be mean w/ the steering wheel. Otherwise your issue sounds like a key with a dying battery. But what do I know?!
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Im surprised this hasnt been recommended already. Try changing the keys in your FOB...Ive had weird issues which dont immediately link to the dead key battery get resolved when I changed the battery.
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RHD C200 Sport Coupe, RHD SLK-55, LHD SLK-350
Changing batteries in a SmartKey has no impact on its functionality when it's in the EIS socket. As has been mentioned earlier, the IR component is induction powered.
I'd be checking the car battery before I got too excited - MB's hate low battery voltage and express their displeasure in different ways. You could also try using a ODBII code reader for grins and see if it tells you anything interesting - probably won't, as the EIS/DAS stuff is pretty proprietary.
Oh, and Glyn? The EIS socket is only alive and seeing voltage when CAN-B is active! ;-) In general, it's impossible to be in your car doing much of anything and NOT have it active, but just to be technically correct.... ;-)
I'd be checking the car battery before I got too excited - MB's hate low battery voltage and express their displeasure in different ways. You could also try using a ODBII code reader for grins and see if it tells you anything interesting - probably won't, as the EIS/DAS stuff is pretty proprietary.
Oh, and Glyn? The EIS socket is only alive and seeing voltage when CAN-B is active! ;-) In general, it's impossible to be in your car doing much of anything and NOT have it active, but just to be technically correct.... ;-)
#25
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Changing batteries in a SmartKey has no impact on its functionality when it's in the EIS socket. As has been mentioned earlier, the IR component is induction powered.
I'd be checking the car battery before I got too excited - MB's hate low battery voltage and express their displeasure in different ways. You could also try using a ODBII code reader for grins and see if it tells you anything interesting - probably won't, as the EIS/DAS stuff is pretty proprietary.
Oh, and Glyn? The EIS socket is only alive and seeing voltage when CAN-B is active! ;-) In general, it's impossible to be in your car doing much of anything and NOT have it active, but just to be technically correct.... ;-)
I'd be checking the car battery before I got too excited - MB's hate low battery voltage and express their displeasure in different ways. You could also try using a ODBII code reader for grins and see if it tells you anything interesting - probably won't, as the EIS/DAS stuff is pretty proprietary.
Oh, and Glyn? The EIS socket is only alive and seeing voltage when CAN-B is active! ;-) In general, it's impossible to be in your car doing much of anything and NOT have it active, but just to be technically correct.... ;-)
That was one of the many MB staff training courses I attended on a train the trainer basis but my memory could well be fading. getting old!
At one time in my life I used to try & stick my head into every OEM staff course I could. From MB to Cummins, SKF, DD & Allison, Mining gear, Steel gear, Sugar gear, Paper gear, Powergen gear etc. ad infinitum.
Unlike some - I'm always willing to learn. Try to refresh or learn something new every day. Known as the "sponge" in my job. Not in the derogatory sense I don't have deep pockets
That is the very strength of these forums. We all learn from one another. There is always someone that knows more than you about something.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-04-2011 at 12:05 PM.