how to remove vacuum line on m271
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
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2003 c230 k
how to remove vacuum line on m271
having difficulty removing the vacuum line in the process of replacing MAF sensor. Is there a release tab? Pulling up on the vacuum line isn't working. Any pictures would of course be very welcome.
Thanks, Rich
Thanks, Rich
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 171
Likes: 3
From: Chicago-ish
2005 c230 S.S.
its a PITA 
. I think that is the most time consuming part of replacing the MAF. Its like a steel hose clamp. it takes superhuman strenght to compress it and to get off. I eventually was able to wiggle mine off and yank the tube out. i'll try to find the thread with a picture of it
. I think that is the most time consuming part of replacing the MAF. Its like a steel hose clamp. it takes superhuman strenght to compress it and to get off. I eventually was able to wiggle mine off and yank the tube out. i'll try to find the thread with a picture of it
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 171
Likes: 3
From: Chicago-ish
2005 c230 S.S.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
2003 c230 k
vacuum line removal
Thanks Chi,
I looked at the pictures in the link. The picture shows the vacuum line attached to a piece that is round. Is the round piece the part you compress and lift up. On my engine, I also noticed something that looks like it might be a tab about 2 inches below the vacuum line. I'm still confused as to what is the location for the tab.
I looked at the pictures in the link. The picture shows the vacuum line attached to a piece that is round. Is the round piece the part you compress and lift up. On my engine, I also noticed something that looks like it might be a tab about 2 inches below the vacuum line. I'm still confused as to what is the location for the tab.
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 171
Likes: 3
From: Chicago-ish
2005 c230 S.S.
from the thread:
PHOTO 4: This is the @#$@ that was giving me such a hard time. Even with the box removed from the car, pulling this off was still very difficult! It's on tight. I can't see how there's any way to remove it w/just a pair of pliers. I had to beat it off.
TECHNIQUE:
A few things I learned from doing this MAF removal.
- The "tabs" used to secure the two sockets to the ECU are not really tabs. There are handles on opposite ends. They pull apart away from the center (forward/back) parallel to the ground. It "slides" out. It's not hard to do. You just have to figure out the mechanism.
- I wasn't able to remove the hose clamp w/pliers. I don't see how that's even possible unless you're Superman w/tiny hands. I placed a long flat head screwdriver in between the clamp and hose. Using the hammer, I slammed the screw driver in between and pulled up moving the @#$# out of it. I then took the circular part of the wrench and pulled on the tab as hard as I could. This literally took 45 minutes or longer.
- Notice I tied a wire to the wrench. I tied any and all tools I used to this wire so I could fish it out in case I dropped it into the engine bay, which I did. Good thing I had the wire! Use string if you have it. It's much easier. I just used wire b/c I didn't have string on hand.
- The socket used to loosen the two rear torx screws was a 5/16" socket. You'll need that extension to get access.
- I never unplugged the battery.
- To remove the vacuum hose, pinch the circular tab/bracket like you're pinching a nipple. Pinch in the direction perpendicular to the length of the car.
- For anyone who cares, the part number for the MAF is A 271 094 02 48. I've seen non-ebay ones priced from $288 - $800.
PHOTO 4: This is the @#$@ that was giving me such a hard time. Even with the box removed from the car, pulling this off was still very difficult! It's on tight. I can't see how there's any way to remove it w/just a pair of pliers. I had to beat it off.
TECHNIQUE:
A few things I learned from doing this MAF removal.
- The "tabs" used to secure the two sockets to the ECU are not really tabs. There are handles on opposite ends. They pull apart away from the center (forward/back) parallel to the ground. It "slides" out. It's not hard to do. You just have to figure out the mechanism.
- I wasn't able to remove the hose clamp w/pliers. I don't see how that's even possible unless you're Superman w/tiny hands. I placed a long flat head screwdriver in between the clamp and hose. Using the hammer, I slammed the screw driver in between and pulled up moving the @#$# out of it. I then took the circular part of the wrench and pulled on the tab as hard as I could. This literally took 45 minutes or longer.
- Notice I tied a wire to the wrench. I tied any and all tools I used to this wire so I could fish it out in case I dropped it into the engine bay, which I did. Good thing I had the wire! Use string if you have it. It's much easier. I just used wire b/c I didn't have string on hand.
- The socket used to loosen the two rear torx screws was a 5/16" socket. You'll need that extension to get access.
- I never unplugged the battery.
- To remove the vacuum hose, pinch the circular tab/bracket like you're pinching a nipple. Pinch in the direction perpendicular to the length of the car.
- For anyone who cares, the part number for the MAF is A 271 094 02 48. I've seen non-ebay ones priced from $288 - $800.
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