DIY: W203 Sway Bar Links Replacement
#76
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sounds like a good strategy Not if one is having a shop doing the install though
BTW, John, did you check the steering shaft u-joint for play - that might be the source of clunks when rocking the steering wheel between 11-1 o'clock.
I was rotating the front wheels side-to side, and thought I would do the 3-9 and 12-6 manhandling checks, and when I rock the tire 3-9 I hear a thump type of clunk somewhere in the brake booster area... Sounds like the steering u-joint to me...
BTW, John, did you check the steering shaft u-joint for play - that might be the source of clunks when rocking the steering wheel between 11-1 o'clock.
I was rotating the front wheels side-to side, and thought I would do the 3-9 and 12-6 manhandling checks, and when I rock the tire 3-9 I hear a thump type of clunk somewhere in the brake booster area... Sounds like the steering u-joint to me...
#77
Super Member
BTW, John, did you check the steering shaft u-joint for play - that might be the source of clunks when rocking the steering wheel between 11-1 o'clock.
I was rotating the front wheels side-to side, and thought I would do the 3-9 and 12-6 manhandling checks, and when I rock the tire 3-9 I hear a thump type of clunk somewhere in the brake booster area... Sounds like the steering u-joint to me...
I was rotating the front wheels side-to side, and thought I would do the 3-9 and 12-6 manhandling checks, and when I rock the tire 3-9 I hear a thump type of clunk somewhere in the brake booster area... Sounds like the steering u-joint to me...
There is still the slightest clunk, I don't think it's in the U-joint, I actually think it's a bit of play in the pinion gear area. But according to the tech service manual some play in the rack is normal. So for now I'm calling it done.
The steering still feels a bit less stiff than it was when the car was new, but at this point I attribute it to the age of the rack, and the only thing that might restore it is just getting a new rack. But not really needed now.
#78
Newbie
I just installed a new sway bar link on the drivers side and it runs smooth and great for a few miles, then starts making a random clank. I tighten it, and it repeats the same thing. Does anyone know if you have to use locking gel, or something on the bottom end sway bar link end? Just a heads up, I replaced all struts and springs and it runs beautifuly, except for the new sway bar end link getting lose after a few miles.
This is the link I bought for my 2006 C280 Luxury and it matched up perfectly.
http://www.autozone.com/1/products/5...t-1880490.html
This is the link I bought for my 2006 C280 Luxury and it matched up perfectly.
http://www.autozone.com/1/products/5...t-1880490.html
#79
MBWorld Fanatic!
What torque did you tighten them to? Are you sure it's the link that is clunking?
A way to check that is to remove the links and drive around (with lots of body roll).
A way to check that is to remove the links and drive around (with lots of body roll).
#80
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2005 C200 T CDI
Probably a noob question, but I'll ask it anyway
Will replacing the stabilizer link/sway bars knock the wheel alignment out? I doubt it, but just in case....
Will replacing the stabilizer link/sway bars knock the wheel alignment out? I doubt it, but just in case....
#81
Super Member
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torquewrench (05-04-2017)
#82
SPONSOR
DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Bar_Links.htm
Parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg6.htm#item23
If you have any questions please let me know.
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torquewrench (05-04-2017)
#83
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2005 C200 T CDI
Which one to tighten? Nuts or inner bolts?
sorry - this is what happens when I don't have enough coffee running through my system. Missed the word "remove" in the DIY. I assume since they are being replaced anyway, it doesn't really matter if you turn the inner bolt?
******************
Thanks for the links.
Having had a quick squizz at the DIY, I am now slightly confused.
Up in reply #32, jkowtko said:
"small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts."
however, the DIY states:
"You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm."
I suppose I have a 50-50 chance of guessing the right answer, but which one should I tighten? The nuts or the smaller inner bolts?
Thanks in advance.
******************
Thanks for the links.
Having had a quick squizz at the DIY, I am now slightly confused.
Up in reply #32, jkowtko said:
"small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts."
however, the DIY states:
"You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm."
I suppose I have a 50-50 chance of guessing the right answer, but which one should I tighten? The nuts or the smaller inner bolts?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by torquewrench; 05-04-2017 at 04:55 PM. Reason: missed the word REMOVE
#84
SPONSOR
sorry - this is what happens when I don't have enough coffee running through my system. Missed the word "remove" in the DIY. I assume since they are being replaced anyway, it doesn't really matter if you turn the inner bolt?
******************
Thanks for the links.
Having had a quick squizz at the DIY, I am now slightly confused.
Up in reply #32, jkowtko said:
"small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts."
however, the DIY states:
"You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm."
I suppose I have a 50-50 chance of guessing the right answer, but which one should I tighten? The nuts or the smaller inner bolts?
Thanks in advance.
******************
Thanks for the links.
Having had a quick squizz at the DIY, I am now slightly confused.
Up in reply #32, jkowtko said:
"small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts."
however, the DIY states:
"You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm."
I suppose I have a 50-50 chance of guessing the right answer, but which one should I tighten? The nuts or the smaller inner bolts?
Thanks in advance.
Usually, these are done by breaking the large nut loose. Once loose, counter-hold the nut while turning the HEX boss on the end of the link stud.
#85
Super Member
When removing the old links it surely doesn't matter since you are discarding the parts.
For tightening it probably doesn't matter either, but ...
When you normally tighten a bolt/nut, sometimes you tighten by turning the bolt, sometimes by turning the nut. But when you turn the bolt you are usually turning it at the head of the bolt which is where the rotational friction is. However when dealing with sway bar links, the "head" of the bolt is the ball joint of the link, and the only place you can turn the bolt is from the opposite end of the shaft, away from the rotational friction area. So when you turn the bolt it will apply a twisting force to the bolt shaft. I personally don't like the idea of doing that ... I would rather hold the bot still and turn the nut ... work against the rotational friction on the nut side. I use a crow's foot and torque wrench on the nut as I hold the bolt still ... or just tighten and test repeatedly until the bolt holds snug at the required torque reading.
For tightening it probably doesn't matter either, but ...
When you normally tighten a bolt/nut, sometimes you tighten by turning the bolt, sometimes by turning the nut. But when you turn the bolt you are usually turning it at the head of the bolt which is where the rotational friction is. However when dealing with sway bar links, the "head" of the bolt is the ball joint of the link, and the only place you can turn the bolt is from the opposite end of the shaft, away from the rotational friction area. So when you turn the bolt it will apply a twisting force to the bolt shaft. I personally don't like the idea of doing that ... I would rather hold the bot still and turn the nut ... work against the rotational friction on the nut side. I use a crow's foot and torque wrench on the nut as I hold the bolt still ... or just tighten and test repeatedly until the bolt holds snug at the required torque reading.
Last edited by jkowtko; 05-09-2017 at 11:48 AM.