DIY: W203 Sway Bar Links Replacement
#51
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2007 C230 SS 6MT
jkowtko, I think the Bilstein TC struts/shocks also fit Sport models, correct me if I'm wrong:
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2007
Suspension refresh is one of the things on my to-do list, learning a lot from this thread.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2007
Suspension refresh is one of the things on my to-do list, learning a lot from this thread.
#53
Super Member
jkowtko, I think the Bilstein TC struts/shocks also fit Sport models, correct me if I'm wrong:
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2007
Suspension refresh is one of the things on my to-do list, learning a lot from this thread.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2007
Suspension refresh is one of the things on my to-do list, learning a lot from this thread.
From what I understand Bilstein makes three grades of shock/strut:
* TC (Touring Class) ... arguably the softest, twin tube design, less expensive
* HD (Heavy Duty) ... not sure if stiffer than TC, but mono tube design, more expensive
* Sport ... hardest ride
The above are layman's terms. The technical model numbers are B4, B6, etc. B4 is the Touring Class. I believe B6 is the Heavy Duty and B8 the Sport.
The TC supposedly do not come in the shorter extension length. I did find a part number on the Bilstein web site but it was not orderable anywhere. Unfortunately this is one of those items where there seems to be a lot of different part numbers floating around, and hard to identify which is which. The confusion is increased by the fact that some W203s have the sport suspension and some do not, and sometimes it's by model number and sometimes by a suspension upgrade option within a model number.
Last edited by jkowtko; 05-13-2013 at 04:43 PM.
#54
Super Member
My car, 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, takes the 203-320-75-30 part number.
I see AMG cars with 83-30, and non-sport with 70-30.
Rockauto also shows the 66-30, which looks like sport. Maybe it's the earlier years where they had a smaller sway bar and only M10 end links, so smaller end link mounting hole?
Otherwise I don't know what all of the differences are ... maybe replacement/upgraded parts?
In any case, I would guess that 75-30 is the correct OEM part number for these cars ...
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you scroll down, there is a link to TC as well: http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/p...-and-CLK-Class
It says it's compatible with everything, but fails to mention that you may have to drill it to fit M12
It says it's compatible with everything, but fails to mention that you may have to drill it to fit M12
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#56
Super Member
If you scroll down, there is a link to TC as well: http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/p...-and-CLK-Class
It says it's compatible with everything, but fails to mention that you may have to drill it to fit M12![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It says it's compatible with everything, but fails to mention that you may have to drill it to fit M12
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://mbworld.org/forums/5343076-post4.html
I don't know why they post "for sport", "for non-sport", etc. Maybe they are differentiating from the 4Matic suspensions, which is quite different in the front? In any case, through the URL above I state the two part numbers, that fact that you cannot find the sport one anywhere. and I bought the non-sport for my car.
If it turns out you can find the sport B4, then by all means get it. The only difference between these two should be the shaft length and the end link hole size -- otherwise they should be identical.
#57
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2007 C230 SS 6MT
Ok, I did a little research on Bilstein's web site just for kicks & came up with the following for my car:
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm.../drivetype=RWD
If I were to go with B4 TC components, I would use:
Twintube Strut Assembly
Part Number: 22-218537
Series: B4
Position: Front
Descriptor: Replaces O.E. Number 203 320 75 30 Only
Descriptor: Sport Suspension
36mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Part Number: 24-114714
Series: B4
Position: Rear
Obviously I need to check my front struts to see if it matches the part# Bilstein states above.
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm.../drivetype=RWD
If I were to go with B4 TC components, I would use:
Twintube Strut Assembly
Part Number: 22-218537
Series: B4
Position: Front
Descriptor: Replaces O.E. Number 203 320 75 30 Only
Descriptor: Sport Suspension
36mm Monotube Shock Absorber
Part Number: 24-114714
Series: B4
Position: Rear
Obviously I need to check my front struts to see if it matches the part# Bilstein states above.
#58
Super Member
See if you can find 22-218537 for sale anywhere ... the only place I was able to pull up had a different looking part in the photo and cost $285 each ... !
24-114714 may have been what I got for the rear ... eschocks has a cheaper price now ... I think I paid $88 each.
24-114714 may have been what I got for the rear ... eschocks has a cheaper price now ... I think I paid $88 each.
Last edited by jkowtko; 05-13-2013 at 06:40 PM.
#59
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2007 C230 SS 6MT
Cheapest I found was this place in the U.K., waiting for Bilstein USA to return my call about availability, http://bilstein.suspensiondirect.co....1_443_9811.jsp
#60
Super Member
Cheapest I found was this place in the U.K., waiting for Bilstein USA to return my call about availability, http://bilstein.suspensiondirect.co....1_443_9811.jsp
I'm also very curious to hear what Bilstein USA says ...
#62
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2007 C230 SS 6MT
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0
Is part# 22-218537 something you can special-order? Thanks for your help!
#63
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hey guys,
in the PDF from Wiki, the torque setting for end link nuts is only given for M10 bolts as 60nm = 44 ft-lb, and no setting for M12 bolts.
But for W209 with M12 bolts the setting is 100nm = 74 ft-lb.
I am at a loss as to which one is correct...
https://mbworld.org/wiki/images/5/51...front_axle.pdf
in the PDF from Wiki, the torque setting for end link nuts is only given for M10 bolts as 60nm = 44 ft-lb, and no setting for M12 bolts.
But for W209 with M12 bolts the setting is 100nm = 74 ft-lb.
I am at a loss as to which one is correct...
https://mbworld.org/wiki/images/5/51...front_axle.pdf
Last edited by VVF; 01-11-2014 at 08:38 PM.
#65
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ok, thanks. I believe it's been a couple months since you installed yours, so that should rule out them un-tightening.
I torqued them to about 50 +-, but I think that should be fine.
(Tightened, then confirmed with a torque wrench)
I torqued them to about 50 +-, but I think that should be fine.
(Tightened, then confirmed with a torque wrench)
#66
Super Member
I replaced the links a year ago when I did the struts. Just replaced the sway bar only in the fall. Both times I torqued to 44 ... so it's gotta be okay. If the bolts will go higher all the better. Worst case you snap one off, it's only $30 for another link
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#68
Super Member
It's the small clunk in the steering rack that's driving me nuts now ... I get hyper-sensitive doing this DIY work because I'm now constantly paranoid that I didn't put something back together correctly or tighten enough. (But so far all I've found is poor workmanship from the mechanics I used in the past). I hope it's not the worm gear. As soon as the weather warms up I think I'm going to replace the rack bushings and have a good look at the tie rod ends. All rubber is suspect to me now
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by jkowtko; 01-12-2014 at 03:44 PM.
#69
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's actually amazing how they treat cars considering the cool rates they are charging for labor... And for me, it's like 3 hours round-trip to some decent shops. So if I can DIY something is 3-4 hours, it's an automatic win ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Is that clunk you feel through the steering wheel when rapidly turning it side-to-side within several degrees? It seems that my car's rubber is a more tired version of yours, so whatever helps you get rid of clunks/knocks/creeks will definitely help me![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But so far my main concern is the knock on the left side..
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Is that clunk you feel through the steering wheel when rapidly turning it side-to-side within several degrees? It seems that my car's rubber is a more tired version of yours, so whatever helps you get rid of clunks/knocks/creeks will definitely help me
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But so far my main concern is the knock on the left side..
#70
Super Member
Yes the steering noise is from quick rocking left/right maybe 10-15 degrees, not enought to turn the wheels but enough to put some load on the rack and tie rods. I did this with the wheels on the ground and steering wheel unlocked. Engine running or not (easier if not running).
Different test with wheels off the ground, someone holding the steering wheel absolutely still, rocking each front wheel to try to turn it left and right. In this case it felt like I could reproduce the sound when rocking the passenger wheel but not the drivers side wheel.
Then again with load on the suspension, I had my son rock the steering wheel again while I felt the rack and tie rods. This test contradicted the last test because the cluck felt loudest on the drivers side around the worm gear shaft to the tie rod end. This is where I need to pop the boot off the rack to see if it's the inner tie rod. However I don't notice any play at all in the steering movement, even when hearing the sound.
There's only so many parts in there so at some point I should find it. Of course, as the official service manual says, a clunk is normal in these systems ...
Different test with wheels off the ground, someone holding the steering wheel absolutely still, rocking each front wheel to try to turn it left and right. In this case it felt like I could reproduce the sound when rocking the passenger wheel but not the drivers side wheel.
Then again with load on the suspension, I had my son rock the steering wheel again while I felt the rack and tie rods. This test contradicted the last test because the cluck felt loudest on the drivers side around the worm gear shaft to the tie rod end. This is where I need to pop the boot off the rack to see if it's the inner tie rod. However I don't notice any play at all in the steering movement, even when hearing the sound.
There's only so many parts in there so at some point I should find it. Of course, as the official service manual says, a clunk is normal in these systems ...
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ok, it seems that the proper torque for M12 end links is 60 ft-lb.
See bottom of Page 2 in this doc: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...sion-strut.pdf
See bottom of Page 2 in this doc: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...sion-strut.pdf
#72
Super Member
Okay I see it -- thanks for digging this up ... when I change the oil next I'll re-torque those bolts. I don't think that's my problem though :|
This instruction sheet is hard to read though ... you'd think they've learned now to number parts on a diagram, and possibly put the torque settings on the diagram as well ...
This instruction sheet is hard to read though ... you'd think they've learned now to number parts on a diagram, and possibly put the torque settings on the diagram as well ...
#73
MBWorld Fanatic!
Maybe that's because one diagram applies to several chassis types and there are several different torque settings and part#'s - they did not want to clutter the pictures. One the other hand, why not make several pictures, big deal...
#75
Super Member
You think German car parts are expensive ... the Toyota brand links for our Corolla/Matrix are $80 each! And that's about the cheapest you can get it anywhere online.
Both Partsgeek and RockAuto are around $36-38 for the Lemfoerder. You might also consider Moog for closer to 20.
If you are okay with replacing your links every year or sooner, then try out the cheap ones and let us know what happens. I'd say buy two pairs -- still comes to less than half the price of Lemfoerder. Then as soon as they start to loosen up you should hear the clatter and know it's time to swap them out. And now you know roughly how long they will last, and you can schedule for the next replacement.
Both Partsgeek and RockAuto are around $36-38 for the Lemfoerder. You might also consider Moog for closer to 20.
If you are okay with replacing your links every year or sooner, then try out the cheap ones and let us know what happens. I'd say buy two pairs -- still comes to less than half the price of Lemfoerder. Then as soon as they start to loosen up you should hear the clatter and know it's time to swap them out. And now you know roughly how long they will last, and you can schedule for the next replacement.