ggms16

Hey Guys, first of all excuse me for my "not so good" english..

I replaced today my car's sway bar links, it was very easy and took around 1hr to complete (I have a hip issue and using crutches), so it might take even less to you.

Make sure you have the right P/N (203 320 28 89 or A2033202889) before starting.

Should look like this... I used lemforder, that's what I would suggest you to use, but I've heard that Meyle HD's are great also.



Price: 24$ each at autohausaz

1st Step: Lift your car and take the wheels out.



2nd Step: Identify the part being replaced.. It is behind the strut, the upper side holds the strut and the lower holds with the sway bar.



3rd Step: You will need to use 2 different tools at the same time. Use the socket wrench to hold the screw and then loose the nut using a regular 5/8" wrench.



Should look like this after its released



4th step: Do exactly the same on the lower side...




This is my sway bar link, the boot is gone and it has excessive play.




5th Step: Mount the new sway bar link and make sure everything looks good before tighten up.



6th Step: Do the same as step 3 but in reverse... NEVER use the socket wrench to tighten up the nut but, use the regular wrench for that. Using the socket wrench as a screwdriver will destroy the boot of the link.


Upper side


Lower side


And that's it, you're all set. Reinstall the tires and test drive your car.




Hope this will be helpful for someone.

ncmudbug

Very nice DIY!! And your English was fine!

What did you notice about your car that made you suspect the link needed to be changed?

ggms16

Thanks!

I noticed excessive play in the sway bars and a clanking noise when driving over irregular roads. The rest of the front end was just fine, so I decided to hold the sway bar link and shake it and it had some play in it. Changing the sway bar links completely fixed the issue.

hcoronado

well done!

smanzor88

just what i need! awesome!!!

ggms16

happy to hear that.

ncmudbug

I figured it was something like that. Thanks again for the DIY. Good job!

nwwoods

Great tutorial! Thank you!

I am stuck at pulling out the old links. I have the bolts off, but they seem to be stuck in place. I have beat the ends of the bolts and they won't budge.

I noticed that as I loosed the nuts, the bolts became more angled, indicating the sway bar is pushing up against them, and creating a tension that is difficult to overcome. How did you overcome this?

ggms16

Hi, they came off pretty easily, and it should unless you have your sway bar bent. I did not have to apply any force to release the old links..

Btw, you must have the steering straight...

nwwoods

Thank you ggms16! I don't think the sway bar is bent, but it's possible as I just bought it (though the carfax was super clean.) The steering is straight.

I think it may be that I only raised one side, and that you have to raise both sides and put it on jack stands, or there's some torsional tension?

mtnman82

nwwoods - yeah, you have to have both side of the car even or there will be a torque from the sway bar on the end link.

I've noticed a clunk going over rough roads in my vehicle too. Have grabbed the swaybar and tried to move things but it still seems tight. I'm thinking I'm at the beginning stage of this issue. But, I've got the thicker end links so need to find out the part #'s for those...

christitsworthb

Changing the sway bar links completely fixed the issue

RDVT4ME

Is there a specific torque setting for tightening these bolts?

Glyn M Ruck

Great DIY! ~ perfect English!

nwwoods

Verified, the whole front end has to be lifted (on jack stands) and then they come right out. Don't know a torque setting for the bolts, someone with a service manual could probably say.

jcnash

Terrific, detailed DIY!
Thanks.

drshishani

Great job. This was really helpful.
Thanks a lot.

kmancoupe230

Thank you for posting this! Great job and thank you

jkowtko

According to the Haynes manual, torque specs for the stabilizer link nuts is 44 ft-lbs (60 nM).

karlwust

still have the clunking noise from the front end when I turn the steering to the extreme left or right and braking. After having replaced the sway bar bushings and the lower ball joints. What else do I need to do in order to get rid of this?
Thank you Guys.
KW

jkowtko

Please clarify what you have replaced:

* on sway bars, did you replace the end links that connect the sway bar to the macpherson strut? Or just the rubber bushings that bolt up against the undercarriage?

* lower ball joints -- supposedly the ball joints cannot be separated from the control arms. So did you replace entire control arms? If so, which ones? Just the two lower ones or all four?

Thanks. John

karlwust

It is an E Class 320 WGN 4matic and I had first the swaybar bushings replaced, that did not take care of the problem, then they replaced the lower ball joints, now I still have the knocking, clunking noise when I turn the steering to the extreme right or left while braking. I am already out of $550.00 and the problem has not been resolved. What else should I do?
Thanks,
K.W.

karlwust

It is an EClass 98 320 4matic Wagon. I had the sway bar bushings replaced. That did not take care of the clunking noise as I stepped on the brakes. Now they replaced the lower ball joints, however, now the clunking noise is present when I turn the steering extreme to the right or left while stepping on the brakes, only as I am going slow, in and out of the garage.
I am already our of $550.00 and the problem has not been resolved. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
KW

jkowtko

Oh ... then first you should get your request into the right sub-forum so people will be able to help you better.

This is a C-class sub-forum, W203 (years 2001-2007) specifically. You want one of the E-class sub-forums based on the year and chassis style of your car.

Tri-Star

Thanks for this. Upgrading the sway bars and during that i'll check out this issue.