DIY: W203 Sway Bar Links Replacement
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
DIY: W203 Sway Bar Links Replacement
Hey Guys, first of all excuse me for my "not so good" english..
I replaced today my car's sway bar links, it was very easy and took around 1hr to complete (I have a hip issue and using crutches), so it might take even less to you.
Make sure you have the right P/N (203 320 28 89 or A2033202889) before starting.
Should look like this... I used lemforder, that's what I would suggest you to use, but I've heard that Meyle HD's are great also.
Price: 24$ each at autohausaz
1st Step: Lift your car and take the wheels out.
2nd Step: Identify the part being replaced.. It is behind the strut, the upper side holds the strut and the lower holds with the sway bar.
3rd Step: You will need to use 2 different tools at the same time. Use the socket wrench to hold the screw and then loose the nut using a regular 5/8" wrench.
Should look like this after its released
4th step: Do exactly the same on the lower side...
This is my sway bar link, the boot is gone and it has excessive play.
5th Step: Mount the new sway bar link and make sure everything looks good before tighten up.
6th Step: Do the same as step 3 but in reverse... NEVER use the socket wrench to tighten up the nut but, use the regular wrench for that. Using the socket wrench as a screwdriver will destroy the boot of the link.
Upper side
Lower side
And that's it, you're all set. Reinstall the tires and test drive your car.
Hope this will be helpful for someone.
I replaced today my car's sway bar links, it was very easy and took around 1hr to complete (I have a hip issue and using crutches), so it might take even less to you.
Make sure you have the right P/N (203 320 28 89 or A2033202889) before starting.
Should look like this... I used lemforder, that's what I would suggest you to use, but I've heard that Meyle HD's are great also.
Price: 24$ each at autohausaz
1st Step: Lift your car and take the wheels out.
2nd Step: Identify the part being replaced.. It is behind the strut, the upper side holds the strut and the lower holds with the sway bar.
3rd Step: You will need to use 2 different tools at the same time. Use the socket wrench to hold the screw and then loose the nut using a regular 5/8" wrench.
Should look like this after its released
4th step: Do exactly the same on the lower side...
This is my sway bar link, the boot is gone and it has excessive play.
5th Step: Mount the new sway bar link and make sure everything looks good before tighten up.
6th Step: Do the same as step 3 but in reverse... NEVER use the socket wrench to tighten up the nut but, use the regular wrench for that. Using the socket wrench as a screwdriver will destroy the boot of the link.
Upper side
Lower side
And that's it, you're all set. Reinstall the tires and test drive your car.
Hope this will be helpful for someone.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
I noticed excessive play in the sway bars and a clanking noise when driving over irregular roads. The rest of the front end was just fine, so I decided to hold the sway bar link and shake it and it had some play in it. Changing the sway bar links completely fixed the issue.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 4
From: Raleigh, NC
2005 C230K, 2019 Honda CR-V, '74 Lotus Europa
Thanks!
I noticed excessive play in the sway bars and a clanking noise when driving over irregular roads. The rest of the front end was just fine, so I decided to hold the sway bar link and shake it and it had some play in it. Changing the sway bar links completely fixed the issue.
I noticed excessive play in the sway bars and a clanking noise when driving over irregular roads. The rest of the front end was just fine, so I decided to hold the sway bar link and shake it and it had some play in it. Changing the sway bar links completely fixed the issue.
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Newbie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2005 C230 Kompressor Coupe
how to remove links once bolts are off?
Great tutorial! Thank you!
I am stuck at pulling out the old links. I have the bolts off, but they seem to be stuck in place. I have beat the ends of the bolts and they won't budge.
I noticed that as I loosed the nuts, the bolts became more angled, indicating the sway bar is pushing up against them, and creating a tension that is difficult to overcome. How did you overcome this?
I am stuck at pulling out the old links. I have the bolts off, but they seem to be stuck in place. I have beat the ends of the bolts and they won't budge.
I noticed that as I loosed the nuts, the bolts became more angled, indicating the sway bar is pushing up against them, and creating a tension that is difficult to overcome. How did you overcome this?
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
Great tutorial! Thank you!
I am stuck at pulling out the old links. I have the bolts off, but they seem to be stuck in place. I have beat the ends of the bolts and they won't budge.
I noticed that as I loosed the nuts, the bolts became more angled, indicating the sway bar is pushing up against them, and creating a tension that is difficult to overcome. How did you overcome this?
I am stuck at pulling out the old links. I have the bolts off, but they seem to be stuck in place. I have beat the ends of the bolts and they won't budge.
I noticed that as I loosed the nuts, the bolts became more angled, indicating the sway bar is pushing up against them, and creating a tension that is difficult to overcome. How did you overcome this?
Btw, you must have the steering straight...
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2005 C230 Kompressor Coupe
Thank you ggms16! I don't think the sway bar is bent, but it's possible as I just bought it (though the carfax was super clean.) The steering is straight.
I think it may be that I only raised one side, and that you have to raise both sides and put it on jack stands, or there's some torsional tension?
I think it may be that I only raised one side, and that you have to raise both sides and put it on jack stands, or there's some torsional tension?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 50
From: SoCal. Desert
'16 E350, gone: '03 c230k
nwwoods - yeah, you have to have both side of the car even or there will be a torque from the sway bar on the end link.
I've noticed a clunk going over rough roads in my vehicle too. Have grabbed the swaybar and tried to move things but it still seems tight. I'm thinking I'm at the beginning stage of this issue. But, I've got the thicker end links so need to find out the part #'s for those...
I've noticed a clunk going over rough roads in my vehicle too. Have grabbed the swaybar and tried to move things but it still seems tight. I'm thinking I'm at the beginning stage of this issue. But, I've got the thicker end links so need to find out the part #'s for those...
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
1998 E320 WGN 4matic
still have the clunking noise from the front end when I turn the steering to the extreme left or right and braking. After having replaced the sway bar bushings and the lower ball joints. What else do I need to do in order to get rid of this?
Thank you Guys.
KW
Thank you Guys.
KW
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Please clarify what you have replaced:
* on sway bars, did you replace the end links that connect the sway bar to the macpherson strut? Or just the rubber bushings that bolt up against the undercarriage?
* lower ball joints -- supposedly the ball joints cannot be separated from the control arms. So did you replace entire control arms? If so, which ones? Just the two lower ones or all four?
Thanks. John
* on sway bars, did you replace the end links that connect the sway bar to the macpherson strut? Or just the rubber bushings that bolt up against the undercarriage?
* lower ball joints -- supposedly the ball joints cannot be separated from the control arms. So did you replace entire control arms? If so, which ones? Just the two lower ones or all four?
Thanks. John
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
1998 E320 WGN 4matic
Please clarify what you have replaced:
* on sway bars, did you replace the end links that connect the sway bar to the macpherson strut? Or just the rubber bushings that bolt up against the undercarriage?
* lower ball joints -- supposedly the ball joints cannot be separated from the control arms. So did you replace entire control arms? If so, which ones? Just the two lower ones or all four?
Thanks. John
* on sway bars, did you replace the end links that connect the sway bar to the macpherson strut? Or just the rubber bushings that bolt up against the undercarriage?
* lower ball joints -- supposedly the ball joints cannot be separated from the control arms. So did you replace entire control arms? If so, which ones? Just the two lower ones or all four?
Thanks. John
Thanks,
K.W.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
1998 E320 WGN 4matic
It is an EClass 98 320 4matic Wagon. I had the sway bar bushings replaced. That did not take care of the clunking noise as I stepped on the brakes. Now they replaced the lower ball joints, however, now the clunking noise is present when I turn the steering extreme to the right or left while stepping on the brakes, only as I am going slow, in and out of the garage.
I am already our of $550.00 and the problem has not been resolved. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
KW
I am already our of $550.00 and the problem has not been resolved. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
KW
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Oh ... then first you should get your request into the right sub-forum so people will be able to help you better.
This is a C-class sub-forum, W203 (years 2001-2007) specifically. You want one of the E-class sub-forums based on the year and chassis style of your car.
This is a C-class sub-forum, W203 (years 2001-2007) specifically. You want one of the E-class sub-forums based on the year and chassis style of your car.
