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I never disconnected mine either. Even for the amp since I ran the battery cable with no fuse in the holder and the correct switched 12V in the rear SAM is off when the car is off. As John said, it is very hard to ground it.
I never disconnected mine either. Even for the amp since I ran the battery cable with no fuse in the holder and the correct switched 12V in the rear SAM is off when the car is off. As John said, it is very hard to ground it.
So when is it ok to put a fuse back in holder with a live battery? Or you didnt use a fuse at all?
So when is it ok to put a fuse back in holder with a live battery? Or you didnt use a fuse at all?
You always want a fuse and I did use one. It has been a while but I would have run the cable from the battery to the amp with no fuse in the holder so effectively the cable is not live (can't accidentally ground it and set fire to the car). Then once it is connected securely to the amp then I would put the fuse back in. It's easier than disconnecting the battery since you have to reset the windows, sunroof etc.
In your pic your holding 3 plugs, but my c32 amg only has 2 plugs. So I'm guessing the wires for the speakers and **** I gotta run to where the stock amp is and tap in the speaker wires there.
I know a lot of guys on here just takes their whips to shops, but if there's any old school guys who did themselves w similar situation, could ya hit me up?! I actually was forced to get social media a yr ago so I got that now for contacting, well Instagram is all I got. So if can help please hit me up.my ig is sgtbm3
Thanks again
Originally Posted by tw2
Moron- only because that is what I felt like when searching and trying to find answers, no offense to anyone.
There is so much fragmented information everywhere I decided to write up my experiences of installing my pioneer head unit. I have done dozens of installs on various cars mostly early 90's vehicles, subs, amps, head units, capacitors etc but the C-class is something else. I didn't know cars could have fiber optic systems, I assumed it was all still regular wire. My car is a 02 c32 amg with NON-bose system. If you have bose then simply use these instructions with the pacific accessory corporation products http://www.marcusfitzhugh.com/CLK/DIY/headunit2.html
So... in 2002 when this car was made I was already using mp3 cd's so the stock system is pretty limited. I personally like SD and also having the option for USB. I am full of iHate but I do have AUX in. Point is the easiest option is to ditch the stock radio and get something proper. I don't know anything about navigation nor do I want to but there is heaps of info it would seem on this topic on the forum so it is not covered here.
My system does not have a stock amp but it DOES have a stock subwoofer (yes really) in the parcel tray (rear deck). The sub is run off both of the rear speaker outputs.
Here is my original need help thread, there are lots of helpful links in it and more info on the exact products I looked at and what I ended up getting https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tall-help.html If you want to retain the steering wheel controls then you need a small box to convert the signal to something your head unit can understand. There are 2-3 ways of doing this. I used metra axxess "steering wheel control interface". This connects to the CANBUS (digital communications) in the car (specifically from the steering wheel) and converts it to a standard signal for your head unit. It auto detects you car model and head unit model. This is a very simple way of doing it.
The other option is to use SWI-CAN which converts the steering wheel interface signal to a universal one, then use SWI-JACK (or other) to convert the signal to the brand of head unit you have. JACK covers JVC, Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, there is one for eclipse, panasonic/sony and a couple of others. This seemed more complicated for no reason so I did not go this way. If you have bose this is a good choice since you can use PAC-OEM to use the stock amplifier despite the optical cables.
You can program the buttons for both the axxess and PAC.
Anyway I purchased the axxess, a C-class install kit from ebay which included the radio wiring harness adapter, antenna adapter (from euro to everyone else) and the plastic 2x single DIN surround. It was an excellent product package. Even the wiring adapter was the exact correct one (70-9401). I also got a 5 meter RCA cable in case I amp the sub later, 5 meters of 8ga cable for the amp, inline fuse and some ring terminals.
Lots of fun stuff.
Stock- doesn't it look great.
Follow the instructions here to take it all apart https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tructions.html The only tips I can offer is you need a T20 torx screw driver (non-security version) and when you push down on the "hooks" to get the vent unit out you need to push down and pull the unit out at the same time. It took me a while to figure it all out.
The blue arrow is the antenna, no idea what the other one is? I found it easiest to leave the climate control there since I could not get the wire out the back.
The orange double cable is the fiber optic cable. Don't bend it too much if you want to potentially put everything back to stock.
Top right plug is the power, ground etc for the radio. The bottom is the one with the 2 CAN wires. I don't know what the other wires are for in this plug. The left plug is the speaker wires only, grey, green, violet and white.
Next step after the stock unit is out is to find an ACC wire. The w203 does not have a switched 12V wire for the stock radio so you will need one for an aftermarket unit. The closest one is the cigarette lighter. To get to this you need to remove the centre console trim. After removing the ashtray you simply pull the trim up. Slowly but firmly pull the trim directly UP starting at the front and working backwards. You will find it easiest to remove the shifter surround which simply lifts out also. The trim slides forwards to undo completely.
This is the trim lying upside down on the seat so you can see the clips. They simply pull apart, there is no prying or clips to undo.
You do not need to do this next part but I had to because I did not know what to do. Remove the cup holder, then press the small piece of plastic the size of your fingertip down the bottom of the "hole" and the small shelf will twist up and out. https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-cupholder.gif Then you can pull the cigarette lighter backwards (it folds back) and you can see the wiring harness. Mine had 3 wires, brown was ground (surprise) and yellow/black was switched 12V. There was a blue one, no idea what this did. Anyway you did not have to do all this as I discovered the harness simply runs around the outside of the shifter so you can tap into it much closer to the head unit. Run a wire up to the stock harness.
To get the little "shelf" thing on the right out you need to press this tiny plastic button down the bottom, took me a while to figure that one out. Then the cigarette lighter will come backwards when unclipped at the top.
Twist and pull up.
The accessory wire can be tapped into here.
Wiring is a case of matching the audio wires from the metra harness to your head unit harness. The standard speaker colours are used making this very easy. Next you need to bring constant 12V from the car harness to the head unit one. Same with the radio antenna wire. The metra harness is labeled with each function. Now it becomes 5% more complicated. Match the 12V switched power wire you made to the head unit harness and also to the metra axxess since this does not use a constant 12V supply. Almost finally everything needs to be grounded, the axxess, the head unit and car harness all need to be joined. Finally the CAN wires need to be joined. Most of the axxess wires do not need to be used, the blue/pink and pink wires are the ones for the w203. Pink goes to "1" (labeled on the stock plug) and the blue/pink goes to "2". I was about to cut the stock plug off to wire them in when I spotted this in the garage. It was a plug for tweeters I removed from my gt4. They fit perfectly into the plug.
I put electrical tape on everything not being used and anything that could potentially touch anything it is not supposed to. I personally twist and heat shrink. Soldering is a great idea but I personally find overkill for car audio. You should have a monstrosity like this after you are finished...
Now try and stuff all that crap into the DIN slots
Test fit everything.
Finished!, unfortunately it does not show pioneer on the dash display but volume works, track up down works, telephone buttons are "attn" (halves volume) and "source" ie CD, SD, USB, tuner. Sound is maybe slightly better than stock but the rear required more gain since the head unit is powering both the rear speakers and the sub. The rear wires are 5.4ohms (2x speakers + sub) while the front are standard 4ohm speakers. I put RCA's in at the same time as the head unit and threaded them into the trunk. Sometime I will install my spare fusion amp 60rms x2 to power the stock sub.
If you want to run RCA's the easiest way is to pull up the trim along the door sills. The fronts simply pull up. You may need to removed the kick panel, it has a T20 torx screw in it under a small cover and it pulls outwards (with a lot of force)
At the back, take the side cushion thing out- you need to pull the bottom seat forward on its hinge and undo the 10mm bolt holding said cushion thing on. Also undo 10mm plastic nut holding the door trim on and it can be pulled up and out. Have fun!
Oh and the phone wont work with an aftermarket head unit so I removed it and also the 6 changer in the glove box. Take your CD's OUT BEFORE STARTING as it won't give them back once the stock radio is gone.
Hello at all
This is my first post and I apologize for my bad english
google translate help me ... I live in Paraguay South America, and I bought, three years ago a mercedes W203 C200 compressor of the year 2003 prefaceli sedan imported from Japan like most of the cars used here in Paraguay. My problem is that the factory radio cm1010 is the Japanese version and it does not work fully with FM frequencies here in Paraguay that are the same as those in the US. There is also a 6-disc CD changer I imagine he is connected to cm1010 trought fiber optic cable. I inspected the 7 speakers from outside and did not find any "BOS" acronyms. I assumed the system is not BOSE system . In short, i would like to replace the radio stock cm1010 japn specs with a pioneer radio 1 DIN with bluetooth and handsfree, and, if is posible, i wolud keep the d2b CD-CHANGER by connect it to the pioneer with some d2b to ISO adapter and keep the steering wheel controls.
I ask to you:
1) if is possible to keep the CD-CHANGER and if yes, what interfaces I have to buy (d2b to Iso decoder)? model and brand?
2) What model and brand i have to buy
2) what interface model and brand have to buy for steering wheel and handsfree commands compatible with the pioneer and what Pioneer 1 DIN model recommend me?
I attach some photos of the actually plant
Thanks a lot in advance
Well your installation should be simple in comparison to people who have bose. You can follow my instructions. I don't know of any product that can allow you to keep the CD changer. If you get a head unit with a cd player and USB you shouldn't need a CD stacker in this day and age.
Any pioneer unit that has the features you need will work. The Metra axxess ASWC will work perfectly.
Thanks a lot tw2, i searched on to the METRA AXXESS web site and encountred 2 ASWC items for w203 c230
1) AX-MB1 Mercedes Data Interface 2001-up
2) AX-MB1-SWC Mercedes Data Interface with SWC 2001-upwhat is the difference and what I have to buy for the c200k?
thanks
Paolo
This is the amazon link. It is universal for just about all cars. I used the same one on all 3 Mercedes I have owned including my E-class which is also from Japan.
— I know this thread is 8.5 years old but it’s worth a try —
I have a 2005 C230 Kompressor Sport. Purchased a Pioneer AVH2500, Metra Axxess, harness, and radio antenna adapter. I got the dash console out and have started on the wiring but I am stuck. How do I get the wires out of the stock unit so I can insert the metra wiring and wire everything else together? I’ve come this far and don’t want to pay $200+ to have someone finish it. I can post pictures later.
Last edited by uwbadgers5; 02-03-2020 at 06:16 PM.
Reason: Removing Quote
— I know this thread is 8.5 years old but it’s worth a try —
I have a 2005 C230 Kompressor Sport. Purchased a Pioneer AVH2500, Metra Axxess, harness, and radio antenna adapter. I got the dash console out and have started on the wiring but I am stuck. How do I get the wires out of the stock unit so I can insert the metra wiring and wire everything else together? I’ve come this far and don’t want to pay $200+ to have someone finish it. I can post pictures later.
I thought this was covered somewhere back in the thread ...
The car's wiring harness should have two brown(?) wires that you connect to the CAN-HI and CAN-LO (two signal wires from the CAN Bus) on the Axxess plug ... those two wires will allow the Axxess to pick up the signals from your steering wheel controls.
I thought this was covered somewhere back in the thread ...
The car's wiring harness should have two brown(?) wires that you connect to the CAN-HI and CAN-LO (two signal wires from the CAN Bus) on the Axxess plug ... those two wires will allow the Axxess to pick up the signals from your steering wheel controls.
Was that not what you were looking for?
-- John
Thanks, John! It was addressed in the post because OP mentioned that he was about to cut the wiring but found a connector piece. I saw the 1 and 2 ports for that.
My question (this also may have been addressed or I may be clueless) is about the other wiring from the car to the wires on the aftermarket radio (sound/speakers, etc). I also know I need to cut the 12V wire from the cigarette lighter and wire it to the new radio’s 12V wire.
Thanks, John! It was addressed in the post because OP mentioned that he was about to cut the wiring but found a connector piece. I saw the 1 and 2 ports for that.
My question (this also may have been addressed or I may be clueless) is about the other wiring from the car to the wires on the aftermarket radio (sound/speakers, etc). I also know I need to cut the 12V wire from the cigarette lighter and wire it to the new radio’s 12V wire.
You are talking about the car's radio wiring harness pinout diagrams ... I believe in pre-2005 cars there were two 8-pin plugs, and 2005+ has a single larger square plug ... this should also be covered somewhere in the forums (just do some creative searching) ... if you can't find it let me know and I can find it tonight when I have more time.
Removed the dash and the stock radio as well as cigarette lighter. Removed two of the three inserts to the stock harness. The middle-right wire (brown) is the one I tried to remove because I figured you have to remove the old wire to insert the new wire. Have not gotten it out because I didn’t want to yank too hard. I may be missing a tool or going about this wrong. Metra Axxess unit I bought based on OP’s post. Came with Metra Axxess Back of the aftermarket unit Pioneer AVH2500 Radio antenna adapter Current status of wiring... ignore items on the seat. Bottom is the aftermarket wiring and insert. Top is Axxess wiring and insert. I was able to wire the Ground and 12V together, but don’t know how to go about the pink and blue/pink wiring into the car (other than cutting the wire where the 1 and 2 are attached, as OP mentioned in the post where he had a piece from an older car) as well as wiring the rest of the aftermarket radio to the car wiring.
Last edited by uwbadgers5; 02-03-2020 at 05:55 PM.
01-06-2016, 02:43 AM
