I was driving home yesterday when all 3 malfunctions hit at once. I was moving at about 25 MPH and had no other symptoms. The car sat over night and when turning the key on, the dash read "no malfunctions" After starting the car all 3 malfunctions returned.

After reading the forums I checked my brake pedal and found no switch. I checked the brake lights and they still function correctly.

I also took the car to my local parts store and had the battery/alternator tested. The battery is a little week, 650 CCA but the alternator is giving it plenty of charge.

What else do I look for?

 

check every single fuse in the car...trunk..driver side..and engine compartment

all 3 of these saftey options should not all break down at the same time

good luck

 

Sometimes if the battery is on its way out itll start throwings the codes. Replace the battery and see if itll solve the issues. If its the factory battery then its probably time to change it. Also check the fuses as mentioned above.

 

Get hold of an OBDII scanner & see if the car is storing any codes.

 

I checked and there are no ODBII codes.

 

Harbor freight sells a nice cheap reader if you dont have one. But your autoparts store should do it for free. Just write down the codes or have them print it out for you. Its always good to have a code reader in your car. One of my must have tools I keep in my glovebox.

 

That's the reader I have. I don't usually take it out of the garage, but there have been several times I wished I had it with me when I was out and about. May have to consider getting a second one.

I'm headed out to check the fuses now. I'll post the results when I have them.

 

I just pulled every fuse (dash, trunk & engine) and tested them all with a multimeter. They all tested fine.

I'm holding off on the battery at this point. Since the car is charging well and I was driving when this started I really don't think that is the problem. It is a MB (Johnson Controls) battery so it is likely the origianl from 2003.

Any other ideas?

 

I would say changing the battery would not be a bad idea anyway. Even if it tested somewhat ok it is known that when the battery in our car start to die they cause lots of issues with esp bas and abs.

 

+1 since if its the original its almost 9 years old. Most batteries will last about 5 years

 

Do I need to get a MB battery or can I get one at the local parts store? Any particular brand?

 

I would say get a oem one just because they last so long. I have never had a good experience with auto stores ones. There is that sealed one everyone rants and raves about but can't remember the name. Also the cost is not that different the parts store one was like 115 and the oem one was around $145

 

interstate makes a good one. Model is MTP-49, or you can get a Optima, Braille, or other brand. I'm fixing to order the Braille Group 49 Endurance battery, its about 280 for it. n

 

I like the OE batteries but whatever you do make sure it is at least 100Ah.

Not storing any codes huh! That's a puzzle??? With these kind of errors you usually store a whole lot of CANBUS error codes.

The plot thickens!

Pull the trunk carpet & make sure all the ESP modules & Yaw sensor are properly seated in their receptacles. You have not had anything heavy rolling around in the trunk lately have you??

 

Yeah the braille is 100Ah

 

Can also get the Deka 9AGM49

http://www.remybattery.com/Products/...9__9AGM49.aspx

 

OK, got a new 100AH battery (Interstate). Plugged it in, re-synced the windows, wheels and sunroof. Still get the same 3 codes. I'm also getting a front left parking light malfunction but that has only happened twice in the last 6-8 starts. BTW - The parking light works fine.

I do have 2 60lb sand bags in the trunk, but they don't move. Other than that nothing ever goes in my trunk.

What about a bad wheel speed sensor?

 

A wheel sensor is possible but should immediately throw a code. Are those sand bags placing pressure on the Yaw sensor???

 

You will most likely need a scan tool that is capable of reading manufacturer specific codes. A generic scan tool will only read faults relating to powertrain and emissions.

 

No, they are just inside the trunk more over the spare tire than anything else.

 

I have a mechanic friend who has a nice scanner. I'll swing by his shop on my way to work in the morning to see if his tool picks anything up.

 

My Innova Equus 3130 reads all chassis codes & ABS.

Something like a Snap On Solus will do.

 

I wound up taking it to the dealer today for a free code read. They pulled a 4 page report with a **** load of codes and events. Most of them stay "Stored" in the status field, so I assume those can be ignored for the most part?


There are 2 that say "Current and Stored":
P2001 - Component N15/3 (ETC [EGS] control unit) is defective.
C1001 - Control Unit N47-5 (ESP and BAS control module) is defective.


I'm new to MB and traction control in general, but this does not sound good. Is there a way to test these modules to see if they really are bad.

 

Clear the codes and drive it...if they don't return, don't worry about them.

 

I would second that advice. Clear everything & lets see what returns. Then we can attack them one by one. Before you have a heart attack there are competent module repairers out there. Hopefully a red herring. Benz electronics do suffer brain fade & farts from time to time.