jsbaker

I posted this on another forum but only got one response so I'd like to see if anyone here might be able to help.

I just recently purchased an 03 C240 with 80,000 miles on it. It's a one owner car but I don't know what all has been done to it. Only problem it has is some issues with the front end. It has a moderate pull to the right, had a decent vibration on the right side, is making a clunking noise on the right side and the steering wheel wobbles back and forth when going around 10 or 15 mph, maybe slower.

I had the right front wheel and tire checked and they are ok, not bent and the tire is good. They rebalanced it and the vibration is definitely not as bad as it was. They did say the dirver's side tire is going to need to be replaced soon. We are planning on on putting 4 new michelins on it at the end of the month. I know sway bar bushings and end links can cause the clunking but what else should I be looking at for the pull and the wobble? I am sure it is more than an alignment.


I do think the car has been curbed as the tire on that side is newer, the rim has a bent lip and a small portion of the fender liner is gone. I can't see anything obivously bent or out of place other than being able to wobble the tie rod end.

saespyder

I had a similar issue last year and it was the torque arm bushing. Although, I had the vibration at all speeds, not just low. Is it heavier under breaking? Does the car have a lateral shimmy at any speed? Any other symptoms you've noticed?

Also, it could be a rim that was fixed after being bent. I had mine fixed after hitting an exposed sewer pipe, but it was never the same. It caused very minor vibrations at low speed, even right after the fix and balance.

efzauner

it might just be the tie rod. It is easy to check go under with a big screw driver and pry bar and see if you can move the nuckle. It is easy to replace yourself. Just mark the position of the nut. then get a wheel alignment.

sammydragon3

your lower balljoints or upper balljoints can clunk

jsbaker

Hi guys thanks for the replies so far. I'm planning on putting on a new set of Michelins and getting an alignment at the end of the month. It may be just an alingment issue but i'm not holding my breath and want to rule everything out before i spend the $$ for the tires and alignment. I've been through the ringer with my 06 Passat with $1600 in two sets of tires and a $200 alignment in two years of owning it not including the brand new set the dealer put on before they sold it. I'm trying to avoid ruining a brand new set of tires before i even buy them plus i can't stand a car that does not track straight. Why we bought a second expensive German car is beyond me.

The vibration is basically gone after the wheel was rebalanced. Other things to note is the drivers side front tire is needing replacing soon and has a growling noise from it. I'm not sure if it could play into the pull to the right but i'm not ruling it out. Nothing seems different or worse when braking and "lateral shimmy" is a new one to me. Maybe that's the steering wheel wobble or teetering i describe below.

The steering wheel wobble, where it kind of teeters back and forth from side to side only happens at low speeds, around 15 to 20 mph. I've got new sway arm bushings from the dealer today and will be replacing those on Sunday when I do an oil change. As for the tie rod end if I grab the joint where it connects to the steering knuckle i can twist it from side to side by hand. it does take some force but i can do it by hand nevertheless. I am considering replacing that at the same time this weekend. Assuming control arms are the same as thrust arms i've been pricing those. If I replace them on one side do I have to do the other side of the car too? I very mechanically inclined but suspension is not my srtong point.

One other thing I noticed when i had the passenger side wheel off. The car had new front rotors and pads installed sometime recently as the pads look brand new and the rotors are in excellent condition. If i rotate the brake disc by hand you can feel a spot where the brake kind of drags and then lets go, i haven't compared the drivers side to see if this exists over there. I compressed the caliper as if I was going to replace the pads and with no pad to rotor contact it spins freely without the intermittent drag so i confident the wheel bearing is good. Does the drag sound like it could cause the pulling and what d you think it could be?

Boom vang

this is generally normal for most cars when you manually turn the rotor, the only way you can properly check it is with a dial guage/indicator. Max runout is .002" anything more you get a shudder when braking at high speed, very extreme runout you get a shudder/vibration while driving all the time and under braking your steering wheel would be tugging side to side noticeably. Generally pulling to one side caused by a brake is when the slider pins are seized; the caliper is rusting under the pad sliders and causing them to bind (in sliding calipers); or the pistons are seized and don't retract slightly. Generally sliding calipers are much more forgiving to runout then fixed calipers.

I am assuming that you mean fore and aft, this is normal as there is a ball joint, you have to jack up the car and leave the wheel on grab at 9 and 3 and move back and forth, any play (it will be minor) then the tire rod needs to be replaced. If you grab at 12 and 6 and there is play then your ball joints on the control arms are worn. Of course a worn or loose wheel bearing will feel this at any position around the clock.

W203 suffer from a multitude of front suspension woes and it takes time and money to solve all the clunking and noise from the front. Most of all the parts have been superseded by parts starting with part numbers A204 xxx xx xx as the previous A203 xxx xx xx parts were under engineered and /or suffered from poor quality

sammydragon3

if u just take it to a good euro mechanic or the dealership for diagnostic they will give u a better answer then we can

jsbaker

Fairly confident the control arms are shot or going. Grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 results in some play from the bottom of the wheel. 9 and 3 there is no movement. I noticed a crack in the bushing on the back control arm and when I had someone turn the steering wheel fully to the right i watched the crack open on up. If I am going to replace the control arms then I'm going to throw a new tie rod end on it too while I am in there since I have no doubt the car has been curbed on this side.

Next question, if I do this to one side do I need to replace the same parts on the other side?

Boom vang

Generally it is good practice but not necessary, brakes, tires, shocks and springs must be replaced in pairs. Usually you will find that after you do one side a few months later you will find the other side acting up. I replaced my left tie rod in June (right one was fine) but 5 months later and 6000km there was enough play and clunking that the right one had to be replaced

jsbaker

Just thought I would update this thread for those that were kind enough to try and help me out. I finally took the car in yesterday to and independent shop that specializes in Mercedes and a few other foreign makes. They've been around for 36 years and I read only positive things about them so I trust them so far.

They drove the car and reproduced the noise, wobble and pull. They could not find anything wrong with the suspensionthat would cause any of the issues. They suspected a stabilizer link might be causing the noise but warned it might not and that it had been replaced sometime in the past. Replacing the link did not get rid of the noise. They checked every bushing and joint and did not find anything worn out. They retorqued all suspension bolts and even checked the mounting of the struts and said the noise will have to get worse before they can pinpoint it. I'm ok with the noise if I know there is not an issue related to it.

The steering wheel wobble was attributed to a wheel bearing with excessive play. They checked the bearing and repacked it and the problem seem to be better. The right pull is more than likely a mix of 3 different brands and ages of tires. They rotated wheels around and noticed it did lessen the pull but two tires have varying wear issues. They also figured out 3 of the 4 wheels are bent.

So next week he will have new 17" AMG wheels and 4 new continental tires and we will go from there.

Tri-Star

Sounds like leaking boots ... I'd check the CV Joints ... I had to have mine replaced at around 70K

jsbaker

It's not a 4Matic so it doesn't have CV joints but a good tip anyways!

Boom vang

as a note: Bad CV joints would only be noticed when applying power when turning and if you hear clicking or clunking it would be the opposite joint.