Found it! At least part of it.
There were two engine listed as M271. An HBS197, and an S3990SS. Both had the same specs.

 

Lol yeah those were some fun days. I used alldatadiy and the Service Manual Library DVD from MB (P-2700-203-07) to rebuilt that piece of ****.

I should look up the VIN and see whatever happened to it.

Hogger my pic gallery has everything from my rebuild, if you have any questions that Glyn can't answer (ha! like that will happen. ever.) I'll try to remember.

 

Head is off!!!! Here are the pistons.

 

holy crap...your engine is done buddy...........not if you wanna change the pistons and completely disassemble and rebuild the engine......just buy another engine and drop it in.....you will save a lot of heartache and headache.........just my 2cents

javvy

 

Javvy - why do you think the engine is toast???

The reliefs in the pistons look normal to me, like they were there from the get-go, especially considering how uniform they are from piston to piston. There's even carbon buildup on the reliefs. Valve damage would look uglier. I don't really see any marks indicative of valves slamming into a piston.

What does the head look like? Are the valves fully seating in the head?

What do the cylinder walls look like? If you can see any scrapes/markings, are can you feel them or catch them with a fingernail?

 

Cylinder walls look clean, no grooves or scrapes. I think there are at least 3 or 4 bent valves.
Kinda tired tonight. I just wanted to get the head off, and see what you guys thought of the pistons. Tomorrow I'll look a little deeper into the head, and match up which valves are bent, to each piston.

 

Those pistons do look like they were made that way.
You're doing the job I'm dreading...
but on m111.
Well, 1st off i have no place to do it.
Hopefully she'll keep going and going....

 

Pistons are just fine. Like ambit I think you got away with this one happening at startup. Turn her over & check each piston height at TDC for that piston. If they are all the same you don't have a bent rod - I doubt you have a bent rod!

Fix valves & reassemble with nice new chains!

 

just change the gasket, valve ,valve adjuster, chain tensioner and chain. cost me around 1000usd on parts. same problem with u the piston had been hit but after done the engine run very well. no problem. i not even polish the new valve actually just put the 1 in and blow with compress air and notice abit leak but take gamble and turn out it work fine.

 

Please lap the valves in properly.

 

All stripped down. Just trying to decide on buying a remanufactured head, or having mine re-built.
I think I have my parts list ready to make an order. Only broke two pieces. Two coolant tubes where the tube connects to the head.
Can you guys tell if my "$12 hose" has been replaced? I think it has because the hose has mold strips down the side. Does that mean it's the new one?

 

Have you checked the deck height on your pistons? Are your rods ok?

Good Luck!!

 

+1 for having it rebuilt. how about a set of schrick camshafts while you're in there?

up to you, but if you want it done by the experts:
http://www.mercedesengines.net/prodd...LK230111%2C271
$690

Includes – basic valve job + new valve guides and seals and standard machine work.

 

Thanks for providing the US terminology

 

Deck height is good, all pistons are even. Rods are good too.

RedStripe - your link doesn't seem to work, I'd be interested to see what they have to offer.

 

Good news! I'm not surprised - you had a light touchdown

 

Took the head into a local machine shop. The guy said that Mercedes uses a different type of valve now, that requires new springs too.
Anyone have any info on this? Did they change the replacement valves to require new springs?

I was hoping to just replace the valves, and any broken guides. Not 16 new springs at $45 a piece, plus 32 new retainers at about $4 a piece.

 

There have been a number of revisions but you can decide how you want to rebuild it as long as you can source the older parts.

5 A 271 053 00 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [006]
008
5 A 271 053 05 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [007]
008
5 A 271 053 07 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [008]
Code: 830
008
5 A 271 053 09 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [009]
Code: 830
008
5 A 271 053 06 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE Code: 807
008
5 A 271 050 00 27 EXHAUST VALVE
Replaced_By: A 271 050 04 27
+001 A 271 053 03 20
+001 A 271 053 04 25 008
5 A 271 050 04 27 EXHAUST VALVE [010]
008
5 A 271 050 06 27 EXHAUST VALVE [007]
008
8 A 603 053 03 25 SPRING RETAINER
TOP [010]
016
8 A 271 053 06 25 SPRING RETAINER
TOP [007]
016
11 A 271 053 00 20 VALVE SPRING [011]
016
11 A 271 053 04 20 VALVE SPRING
OptionPart_With: A 271 053 05 20 Code: 807
016
11 A 271 053 05 20 VALVE SPRING
OptionPart_With: A 271 053 04 20 Code: 807
016
17 A 271 053 00 25 SPRING RETAINER
BOTTOM
Replaced_By: A 271 053 04 25 016
17 A 271 053 04 25 SPRING RETAINER
BOTTOM [010]
016
17 A 271 053 07 25 SPRING RETAINER
BOTTOM [007]
016
20 A 102 053 02 26 VALVE COLLET [010]
032
20 A 000 053 11 26 VALVE COLLET [007]
032
23 A 612 050 00 58 SEAL
VALVE STEM SEALING [006]
004
23 A 000 053 51 58 SEAL
VALVE STEM SEALING [012]
004
26 A 271 050 00 80 HYDRAULIC ELEMENT
Replaced_By: A 272 050 03 80 016
26 A 272 050 03 80 HYDRAULIC ELEMENT 016
50 A 271 050 03 33 ROCKER ARM
Replaced_By: A 271 050 05 33 016
50 A 271 050 05 33 ROCKER ARM [010]
016
50 A 271 050 08 33 ROCKER ARM [007]
016


5 A 271 053 05 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [007]
008
5 A 271 053 07 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [008]
Code: 830
008
5 A 271 053 09 01 INLET VALVE/INTAKE VALVE [009]
Code: 830
008
5 A 271 050 06 27 EXHAUST VALVE [007]
008
8 A 271 053 06 25 SPRING RETAINER
TOP [007]
016
11 A 271 053 00 20 VALVE SPRING [011]
016
17 A 271 053 00 25 SPRING RETAINER
BOTTOM
Replaced_By: A 271 053 04 25 016
17 A 271 053 07 25 SPRING RETAINER
BOTTOM [007]
016
20 A 000 053 11 26 VALVE COLLET [007]
032
23 A 000 053 51 58 SEAL
VALVE STEM SEALING [012]
004
26 A 272 050 03 80 HYDRAULIC ELEMENT 016
50 A 271 050 08 33 ROCKER ARM [007]
016

 

Going back to the instructions for pulling a new chain posted by Glyn, what is the purpose of the "retainer" labeled as item #1?

 

I just clicked the link and got it to work first try.
Try again:
http://www.mercedesengines.net/prodd...LK230111%2C271
otherwise, go to the following link and make your way to the products/cylinder head page:
http://www.mercedesengines.net

Its the website for Metric Motors in CA. They'd be the folks to ask about the superseded valves/springs.

 

Ok. I see. They must have been having site issues earlier. Those are the same guys that sell the reman heads I found on eBay. Pretty sure that's the way I'm going to go.

 

just check if there crack. if no just replace the valve.

 

The retainer holds the camshafts & adjusters correctly timed to one another & the crankshaft while replacing the cam chain. Without it the valve springs etc try to rotate the cams off of the loaded cam lobes.

 

Hey Gyn, isn't there some debate (maybe not) over the earlier m271 heads having some issues whic were resolved by the '05 my? If this is the case, what should hogger be looking for in a new/remanufactured head?

 

Indeed - If he goes for a rebuilt head he should try & get a 2005. At the same time he is an example of someone that has not had an issue with the early head.