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02 C230 coupe M111 supercharger rebuild - lost power? Help!

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Old May 12, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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2002 c230k
02 C230 coupe M111 supercharger rebuild - lost power? Help!

Hey guys I have a 138k miles 2002 c230k coupe with the m111 motor and the eaton m45 supercharger (non-clutch) version. I just got my supercharger back from stiegermeyer porting and they rebuilt the snout, resurfaced the rotors and changed the rear bearings.

I reinstalled my supercharger and noticed a significant loss of power. No check engine light, reinstalled everything back the same way, made sure the bolts were tight, nothing odd to note and everything in the supercharger looked great.

But now it feels like it has lost all its go power, and from 4-6k rpm it seems like there is not enough boost.

Could the supercharger have been rebuilt wrong? Is there something I can do to confirm if the supercharger is bad? Or is there something else I need to do to after reinstalling the supercharger?
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Old May 13, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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well after searching the forums and a tip from another member to think about a possible problem i was able to fix the issue of the loss of power!!!

so it turns out that my electronically controlled air recirculation flap was not sealing off when the boost was kicking in and i was loosing power due to boost air leaking out of the intake side.

what i did was do the relearn procedure for the w203 air recirculation flap and that brought my car back to normal power!!!!

this process was posted by one of the c230 coupe guru's!

Follow this process to the tee and have a second person operate the ignition to make sure its done right.

"Learning in recirculating air flap actuator m111 W203".

Remove the air filter housing. Standing in front of the car, on your right, flip the clip on the
hose to your right, and undo the other one, loosen the hose clamp on the left side.
Pull up on the whole plastic assembly, it'll pop out.
There's like 3 points on the bottom where it pops in, you'll need to line up on the return trip.
See the valve on the left where the hose that had the clamp attaches to?

Do the following. (from service DVD)

1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limphome
position.
90° position must be changed manually.The processor
shut-off delay has a duration of approx. 5 seconds.
(Which mean, just physically push it a little out of it's normal position when off, while someone else turns on the ignition in step 2)
2 Switch on ignition for approx. 15 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
3 Switch ignition on for approx. 45 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
The learn-in procedure for the recirculated air flap is then
completed.
AF07.61-

The flap will cycle and reset itself.


so when you get your supercharger rebuilt and reinstall make sure to do this process.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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So thats all it was?
When I had mine out, I bunged up one of the hoses, there's a red rubber seal that I didn't install properly, it got mashed and wasn't sealing.
Well, glad you got it sorted out!
How does it feel now, rebuilt and ported?
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Old May 13, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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Hey c230 sport coupe! First I want to say thank you for all of your posts man(especially the air flap reset!). I dont post often but I read ur stuff all the time before I do anything to my coupe and ur usually better than a star diagnostic when it comes to the m111!

Yeah it just needed to be reset, I guess when i removed it or maybe when it gets unplugged it needs to be recalibrated.

Stiegermeyer did a great job rebuilding it. I took it out because it was rattling at idle and turns out the pulley bearing was worn. They ended up doing a near full rebuild for me for about 450$, front and rear bearings, new oil and seal and resurfaced the rotors to look brand new. They even did a tolerance check to make sure it was all back within spec after rebuild I think they call it "blueprinting"

The only downside was I was down for 3 weeks total including shipping there and back.

I didn't have them port it as the car was getting up there in miles and didnt want to add anymore strain on the supercharger or motor. I use it as a daily driver about 70 miles a day.

But the power is just about the same after rebuild, I think it does build boost a bit faster though as I can get it to redline quicker than before.

The red gasket was in good shape so I don't change it but my hose from the oil catch to the plenum was busted and I changed that. Even the gasket between the plenum and the supercharger I kept as it is plastic and not really warn and was a PITA to find online to buy.

But overall it was well worth the peace of mind to get it rebuilt for reliability and the power is very smooth after it was done
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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Do you hold the recirculating flap while someone turns on the ignition? Does the car need to turn on or only step 2?
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JDM_love
Do you hold the recirculating flap while someone turns on the ignition? Does the car need to turn on or only step 2?
Yeah, have someone push it.

physically push it a little out of it's normal position when off, while someone else turns on the ignition in step 2

Then follow the instructions.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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I'm not sure if I'm doing the steps correctly. Today I pushed the flap out of its position and held it there while someone turned on the ignition for 15 seconds. Then I backed off and waited and then just turned the ignition on for 45 seconds
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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A couple seconds after the ignition turns on the flap closes for a little while then reopens
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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"The flap will cycle and reset itself."

I think yer done.

U learned it. ;-)
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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It did work! Took the car for a drive and felt all the power came back! Thanks for all the help.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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IF I was to temporarily remove the black box with the oil catcher and the wastegate solenoid and replace it with a straight pipe from the air box to the supercharger and block the second hole where the wastegate solenoid goes, what would be my consequences other than poor gas mileage and a possible engine code for the missing wastegate solenoid?
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