Hey guys. I'm having a bit of a problem on the performance of my car. Don't know any possibilities. Need your input. In the cold starts, the cars tranny does not go into gear till it warms up. The car just feels underpowered. Normal driving my car just doesn't feel the same anymore. With the Supercharger it just doesn't feel like I'm getting any boost. Just not getting the power I used to have. I'm not feeling the back pressure. Any input would be great.

 

probably need a rebuild. have u replaced gaskets? id buy an engine with 40k to 50k miles if i was u i got 126 k miles im feeling power. Do you use techron?

 

How often should I use techron. And does that really work?

 

I haven't replaced my gaskets. Does that cause the car to lose some power?

 

I mean the car doesn't drive that bad. But I Use to have to just tap on the pedal and it moves. But now I press on the gas to get a boost.

 

Do a full tune up, new plugs, ignitors, filters, gaskets, fluids, MAF, fuel filter, get the injectors cleaned or new ones. Or you can do a rebuild, or maybe look for a used newer supercharger.

 

use edit button plzzz.. okay techron wont make your car totally different but after i say about 6 bottles it does clean a lot. leaking oil from gaskets isn't a good thing and can sacrifice power. have u done all routine maintenance like replace spark plugs etc , I'm pretty sure the kompressor has more servicing to do not entirely sure.

 

What the hell is going on in this thread! lol

I also own an aging 2005 C230, albeit I'm behind you with 142k miles. 157k is not time for a new engine and supercharger failures are also very rare. I don't know where you live, but it has been a very hot and humid summer in GA. The car heatsoaks and generally feels less peppy during that weather. Mine always has. But here are my suggestions based on my experience with the car and this forum:

1. Check the level of the fluid in the transmission. Most problems with this automatic are due to fluid levels. If you haven't changed the fluid before, flush it and change the filter. Also search the forum for the pilot bushing. This can leak fluid and needs to be replaced, I've had mine done twice.

2. The supercharger has no clutch, it spins constantly. If it were losing boost, I think you would be well aware. Also I think the CEL would be on if there was a problem.

3. Techron does work. If you've never used it, use it in a few back to back tanks. It cleans the injectors and the intake valves.

4. It sounds like your car would benefit from a throttle reset. Search the forum for how to do that. Don't quote me but the procedure is something like while sitting in the car, turn the key to the on position but do not start the engine. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for 5 seconds. Release and turn the ignition off. Wait 2 minutes. This syncs everything up.

5. If you haven't replaced the O2 sensors it is probably time to do so. Even if you aren't getting a code, they could be cycling too slowly and the car just won't run at its best.

6. The spark plugs could also be changed if that hasn't been done or its been a long time. If you're not getting misfires, I wouldn't worry about coilpacks or anything. The fuel filter is also not a bad idea. It's cheap.

7. Consider replacing the timing chain and tensioner. Search the forum for timing chain trouble, listen closely to the recordings and listen closely to your car on a cold start.

I hope this helps.

 

To point 2.) above, the inlet and control of the boosted air is controlled by a PWM module, it will dump the boost out as when not need to the "muffler / expansion block" if that is broken / stuck open, as a failed waste gate, you may not be benefiting at all from the SC…I will look into the exact “wording” of this tonight as I am going off the hip here…

 

I knew it had a way of dumping boost, but I thought if that was happening continuously the CEL would be activated.

 

At 120000 I did replace the spark plugs, fuel filter, thermostat, coolant. Air filter. It's just recently I've notice that my throttle response is not as responsive even on sport mode. I did the reset a couple of times. I just don't feel the difference anymore. And I also notice that I have to add oil. And I still have 8000 miles to go for an oil change. Could my engine be burning oil or would it be leaking somewhere at common places that I'm not aware of.?

 

Problem is that I don't get the CEL...

 

I haven't replaced the timing chain. Not sure if I should do it now. I remember taking the car to the dealer at 45000 miles because of this loud rattling noise during start up and idle on the road. They replaced tensioners, but not sure if they replaced the chain at the same time. Right now my car is at the shop getting a tranny flush. Then I'll go on ahead and do the techron cleaning.

 

I would think seriously about replacing the chain.

 

How much am I looking at for cost in replacing the timing chain?

 

When do I know if my MAF needs replacing?

 

Tranny flush is done. Shifts fine now even at cold starts. Going to get other repairs done.. Such as fuel filter replacement, fuel injectors cleaning, mad replacement, tranny mount, and belt tensioners replaced. I don't plan to do the timing chain. Shop says its fine. But I would rather get the tensioners replaced. Will let u know how much it's going to cost me.

I paid $220 for tranny flush. Do I overpay?

 

sounds a little high to me but i do my own work

 

i wouldnt throw parts at the car
have a non dealership with das hook it up and tell them u have a performance problem

 

It doesn't surprise me that your shop said the timing chain is fine. So did mine, even though it clearly has a bit of a rattle to it at cold start. I guess these guys just hear "timing chain" and assume it is a forever part that should never need service. They should be right, but in the M271 they're wrong, as Mercedes bet the whole engine on what is basically a bicycle chain.

 

My engine mounts are worn for sure along with my tranny mounts. I was told that my Maf needs replacing. Just wanted know what part I should order. As to the name of the part that needs replacing. Trying to find deals on the part. The shop tells me it cost $360 for the part. I'm calling around and they are telling me less. Not sure if Im asking for the correct part.

 

you can get one off ebay for cheap.

 

you can clean your MAF if you dont want to buy a new one. If its not throwing a CEL then I would just clean it.

 

Are those just as good as oem? What's the difference in quality?

 

Phister, could you send me a link off eBay for a reliable maf to purchase... I don't mind spending more than $100. It beats paying $350 . Thanks
My car is a 2005 c230 kompressor.