j0gz

OK, so I've spent quite some time searching regarding my problem and although have gained some knowledge, have not really found the answer!

Sometime ago, I was presented with the error 'Battery/Alternator fault, visit workshop' on my C220 Cdi Coupe '02. I had the voltage tested and everything seemed fine.. I was told its probably a small component blown somewhere thats causing the error and to not worry about it until it gets worse..

I took this advice and have been happily driving for quite sometime since.. now however, it has got worse! I now have flickering headlights.. they dim then brighten then dim and brighten again every few seconds! Also, my wipers work fine when in ignition, however after the car is started, they stop working after a few seconds, sometime even mid swipe! I have noticed that my AC also doesn't work when my wipers aren't working..

A few other things that I have noticed have happened around the same time that probably aren't but could be related, are that the car takes a while to start and also I'm getting very little air through my vents, as if half the actuators have gone!

From my trawling the forums, things seem to point me towards the front SAM.. thoughts? I have yet to have it put on STAR for a diagnosis.. mostly because I am still in search of a good mercedes electrician!

I'd appreciate it if anyone with any technical knowledge could give me some advice.. you may be able to tell if those are all linked to one problem and point me in the right direction..?

benzmodz

The front Sam won't dim lights. It could make the high beam come up but not reduce light output.

SunnyRayToronto

When was the battery last changed? What is date stamp on top of negative terminal?
What are voltage? Before start? At idle? At 2000 RPM? Go into dyno mode (search).

j0gz

OK, so the battery hasn't been changed in awhile.. atleast not in the last 5 years that I've had the car.. did the dyno mode test with the following results..

On a cold start this morning, before starting, it was bang on 12v. After starting at idle, 14.6v and same at 2000rpm. Whilst driving my 10 muinute journey to work, the lowest value I saw was 14. 3v although it just flickered to this and in the same way the highest value was 14.8. However, it mostly rested at either .5, .6 or .7.

When I reached work I turned the car off and before starting again it was 12.8v. After starting at idle, 14.4v and the same at 2000rpm.

Does that indicate anything obvious?? Appreciate your help..

SunnyRayToronto

What is 4-digit date stamp on top of negative terminal?

Double check your voltage at idle,.... should be closer to 13.6V than 14.6V. Max voltage should be about 14.4V or 14.6V at 2000RPM

Where is your location?

C230 Sport Coup

How old is the battery? Have it tested for the CCA.
(Cold cranking Amps).
These cars will slowly shut down things if there isn't enough Amps to keep it all running.
If the battery is old, it may act like a giant resistor.

j0gz

The battery seems like it is the original as it is a genuine Mercedes one, the four digits on the negative terminal read 3002? Does that relate to a date? I guess it could be 2003 if read backwards!

Double checked my voltage at idle again just now, it is the same as it is whilst I go for a drive or at 2000rpm.. just now it was 14.4v.

Something I did just notice just now though is that whilst starting the engine, the voltage drops to 10.7v which is understandable.. but immediately after it stays around 11 then quickly changes to 14.4v within a matter of about 5-10 secs.

From what you're suggesting.. maybe I'm getting too much voltage and something is kicking in to cut out my wipers etc. Voltage regulator perhaps? But then why have my wipers and lights been ok up until now despite seeing the battery/alternator warning for the last couple of years or so!?

I'm located in the UK by the way..

mleskovar

I believe that means the battery was built the 30th week of 2002 which would make it over 10 years old. Don't push your luck, replace it and go from there. I bet it's the battery.

benzmodz

Years ?

C230 Sport Coup

+1 and 1 and 1 and 10 to the trillionth power. Hopefully you haven't blown your alternator. That seems to happen to people like you who neglect their cars, old battery blows the alternator.

SunnyRayToronto

Yes,.... first thing is to change your car battery.

Do NOT go cheap,... get OEM Mercedes-Benz Car battery,....
Mercedes-Benz Part# old: A004-541-45-01
Mercedes-Benz Part# NEW: 000-982-33-08
Not sure how much it cost in UK,... in USA about $135-150,... in Canada about $300.

Anyways, in USA, MB dealership would charge labour to install it for you,... but roadside assistance would only charge a nominal charge (about $25) plus cost of battery. See if there's the same deal in UK,.... better to let someone with experience install it for you. If you are handy enough to install yourself,... please follow instruction in owner's manual. Otherwise,... go through the sticky on all the faults that can happen,....

BTW,.... generally recommended to change car battery every 5 years,.... 7 years is generally pushing your luck.

johnhef

If its a bosch alternator, the original regulators are junk, it can be putting out correct voltage one minute then going hayware the next. If its a valeo, then the whole thing is just junk. Replace your ancient battery, then monitor the system some more and go from there.

j0gz

Hi guys.. Just wanted to bump this, give an update of the problems and hopefully get your help/advice on whats happening.. its beginning to really stress me out now!

So I have changed the battery, had the alternator fully reconditioned including the voltage regulator and still am no better off! My suspicions were correct.. It is most probably a blown SAM or something..

I had the car diagnosed by a local indie who I don't think has done very much to be honest.. attached is what he gave me. I asked him to diagnose everything wrong with my car in order for me to consider investing in it or passing it on to someone else who might want to.. it seems hes just run off a quick test that does not really tell me anything apart from old faults.

Guys, should he not have cleared 'stored' faults then done a test again? Also, does this look like a test thats worth £55?! Because I had most of these codes read for free by the guy who changes my brake pads at the local parts store!! The whole point me going to an MB indie was because I thought he'd be able to provide detailed diagnosis on the fault in question and others using DAS/STAR. Based on this and after charging me a further £30 for 'investigation' he basically told me that I need a new alternator, which obviously has not solved the problem.

What do you guys think? I'm not entirely satisfied with this and intend to take it back. Also, he charged me £45 to do a leak off test and tell me my injector was faulty because I also mentioned to him that it takes awhile longer to start. The guy at the parts store said that my camshaft and crank shaft sensors also need doing and there isn't voltage going to the glow plugs either.. all contributing to the delayed starting..

So I'm thinking why didn't the indie pick this up?! He has a much better outfit than the parts store and his little universal scanner!

My question to you guys as you probably can piece all this info together is a do you think the indie has ripped me off, should the diagnostic test have been better than what I was given, does a faulty injector, faulty cam/crank sensors and no voltage to glow plugs cause wipers etc to turn off and lights to flicker.. and could this actually be a blown sam? If so, which one and how can I be sure!?

Really appreciate your input and help as always!

j0gz

Forgot to attach!

j0gz

So I've had my alternator rebuilt, including regulator and rectifier.. no change. I'm getting error code 'B1036, circuit 61 is not ok' and it wont clear.

Since having posted last, the alternator was taken off again to test for faulty replacement regulator, fitted with a new one anyway and also rectifier (diode pack). Brushes were replaced and fully bench tested before putting back in.

New battery was tried, new front sam module, new wire between sam and alternator, new wire between battery and alternator..

Car behaves in exactly the same way.. headlights flicker, wipers freeze mid swipe within a few seconds of a cold start.. no a/c, no beam etc. when this happens.

Once the car is warm and has restarted a few times.. everything works normally..

What could this be? Is there some sort of programming that needs to be done somewhere?

edgarinho10

Does this Indie have star diagnostic?

j0gz

He does yeah, he says it needs a new alternator.. but having it rebuilt, I dont think it is the alternator.. as everything on it has been replaced!

Alden Wong

Is there a solution in the end? I have the same problem with w203 230k!

cahido123

Man all the situation was finished with the new alternator, It is a question? because I have the same troubles just beginning

slammer111

Alternator is charging. I'd start looking at the voltage regulator which is attached to the alternator. They are known to go bad with the W203. I suspect mine acted up because of cold joints.

C230 Sport Coup

Electric issues, things turning off, usually the battery. I've never had it, because I've never kept a battery so long that it happened.
But otherwise as these cars get older they seem to get leaks and water gets in and plays havoc with
the electrics. My car HATES being parked in the rain. It goes bonkers, but then dries out and thankfully is OK.