Help! My belt broke and now lost all torque after its "fixed!"
I hope that you have not done a head gasket. Check if you are using coolant & if your oil level is rising. Also make sure your oil is not showing signs of emulsification. Check your oil filler cap for cheesy emulsification.
A compression check is also a good idea to check for internal damage.ie valves or rings.
Good luck & keep us posted.
Last edited by MBFanBryan; Jan 22, 2013 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Added questions.

You can change the crank pulley & underdrive the accessories. I don't recommend it. Just sort out the problem & enjoy the car.
Mayonnaise under the oil cap is a pretty sure sign of a head gasket leak.

With a 240, you're better off just enjoying the ride and not trying to gain any torque or hp. It's not the best platform to work from. I'd concentrate on suspension, wheels, tires, and cosmetics instead.
How did you get to overheat your engine once the serpentine belt broke?
For how long did you keep on driving after the snap?
I guess I'm trying to find out if there is a safety buffer from the "snap" to overheating...
When the coolant in the head starts boiling at around 250 degrees it's "game over" as there is nothing that can absorb the heat, and the aluminum will start to deform.
Note also that with no circulation, the heat is not transfered (as quickly) to the temp sensor which sends to the temp meter in the dash.
There is no safety margin. These all-aluminium engines, once at working temperature, should not be operated at all without coolant circulation.
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Oh, clean the MAF sensor. After the K&N filter made it dirty, the engine might be in MAF out mode.
Last edited by Moviela; Jan 24, 2013 at 02:53 AM.
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well that is usually 100% true in MY case not so MY location (Ontario,canada) and the fact i take very short trips 5km each way daily i get the mayonnaise under my oil cap (untill i take a 30 min, min hwy drive)
now seeing the orig poster is in la he would not have same problems as me

The coolant circulation stops the instant the belt snaps. From there on the heat around the combustion chambers stays more or less in the cylinder head.
When the coolant in the head starts boiling at around 250 degrees it's "game over" as there is nothing that can absorb the heat, and the aluminum will start to deform.
Note also that with no circulation, the heat is not transfered (as quickly) to the temp sensor which sends to the temp meter in the dash.
There is no safety margin. These all-aluminium engines, once at working temperature, should not be operated at all without coolant circulation.
That's what I was getting at. So, the belt snapped. Do you have 30 seconds to pull over and stop? Do you have 10 seconds? 5?
How many seconds does the driver have before the problem gets worse?
Know this may sound weird but compared to women or friends my Mercedes is more dependable and more reliable than either one! Lol! Thank you everyone for your advice. I am waiting to get my manual so I can do everything right now I don't know where everything is. Also I will check compression and head gasket when I have time to go to the repair shop but for now the torque and performance is back as I am passing other drivers and having the best times of my life! I only wish I was able to own a Mercedes sooner. I am completely amazed at how much my life has improved since I got it. I feel more successful, confident, I am living the Dream and having the most fun with my life all thanks to my 2003 Mercedes c240. I will only be driving a Mercedes for the rest of my life that's for sure! Thank you again everyone!

I would say step #1 is: let off the gas immediately, heat generation is directly proportional to power output (hey, it's a combustion engine...), pull over and drive slowly to a place where you can safely wait for a tow.
At or near idle it'll take a few minutes before the coolant boils (but it will!). Going uphill at 65mph, the engine is generating maybe 10x the heat, overheating 10x as fast.
Ok so NEW Question: everything was going GREAT then my Idle was really messed up & shaking at red lights so I figured it was time for a Tune Up even though the computer said 6,500 more miles. So I tried to find a "Good Independent" repair shop and got seriously screwed over bad! First I scoped it out they had a lot of cars and newer nicer Mercedes they were fixing so I figured busy means happy customers right? Wrong I feel raped! First the owner "David" quoted me oh for a full tune up it's between $1,200 to $1,500. So I figured ok sounds ok so I decided to give him and his shop a try it looked clean and busy good signs right? So I asked him to do it and to please write out the parts and labor first on the invoice so I can sign it. He gave me some weird excuse that the parts have to come in first before he can do that which was a very bad answer I guess I should have left there and then because I gave him a chance to prove himself so he fixes it tunes it up then next day gives me invoice for $1,500. I asked him you said $1,200 to $1,500 he replied well it was turned out to be $1,500! With tax it was like $1,600. Then he tells me oh by the way your ignition wires are very frail needs to be replaced and is $200. I asked him wasn't that part of the complete tune up? He said no MB parts are expensive and only oil change, spark plugs, etc are part of tune up. I was like what the heck? Is he messing with me? So he says look take the car home you will notice most of the shake is gone in idle but there still a little because of wires so bring the car back tomorrow we will replace it $200 and I won't charge you for labor. I thought hmmm ok so I go home and see most wire sets are around $150 on the Internet. Ok fine he charges me $200 no big deal. So I go back and drop the car off and pick it up in 3 hours and he writes up a $327 invoice bill! I was pissed off I said "Hey you told me it was $200 and no labor charges!" He then looks at me and says "oh no it's $300 and I didn't charge you for labor it's $327 with tax, see?" He points to invoice it says $300 for wire set. WTF??? Did I get raped or what? I just give him my credit card and vow never to go back ever such BS! Do mechanics feel they can scam is because we own MB and we are just so loaded we don't mind being ripped off??? I don't know about everyone else but I work too dam hard to be scammed or to waste money or be tricked with lies! I didn't buy a Mercedes so jerky mechanics can just scam me all they want that's not part if the deal!
Please can SOMEONE recommend a Honest Independent MB Garage/Mechanic in Los Angeles area? Near LAX or Santa Monica would be ideal but open to ANY in Los Angeles that writes down parts costs & labor costs and let's you sign and approve BEFORE starting work and over charging!!!
Last edited by MBFanBryan; Feb 2, 2013 at 01:55 AM.





