C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Considering a 2003 c240 wagon

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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
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Red face Considering a 2003 c240 wagon

Hi all, brand new here but not brand new.

I'm considering a very clean 146k wagon. I know the owner so I should be able to get a decent history on the car. That is a good thing. The interior is immaculate and the outside nearly so.

I have perused the site and done some searches so I see the most oft complaints, ie. rattle in the dash, expensive bulbs, occasional cars with potentially bad electrics (grain of salt) etc.

My questions are mostly about what I might expect at the current mileage. I am savvy with hand tools so a and b service are cake as does appear c. I am now looking at a link:

http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...owners_manuals

and I have yet to find the service intervals and the "in depth" explanation I saw mentioned in a post.

Many of the questions I see on the forum appear to be for cars in the early stages of service life. I can read between lines so I see that new owners oft get a shock from the first couple services and run to the internets seeking confirmation that they were ripped off... lol a bit, overhead is high in a shop...

What I want is a few thoughts from those of you that are now into higher mileages and have seen the major trouble spots etc etc.

Thanks in advance

Marcos
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MrMarcos
My questions are mostly about what I might expect at the current mileage. I am savvy with hand tools so a and b service are cake as does appear c. I am now looking at a link:

http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...owners_manuals

and I have yet to find the service intervals and the "in depth" explanation I saw mentioned in a post.
Are you referring to this?:

Service Book

In general, yes, the 2003's are better than the 2001-02 models for electronics and a bit better in terms of rust protection.

Have you driven the wagon in question? I'd have to say that I'd probably find it unsafely slow to accelerate with the traffic I have to deal with.

Definitely check for rust everywhere. I've had rust fixed in multiple locations on my 2002. The engine should be pretty good on that car as far as reliability is concerned. Honestly, I still wouldn't recommend it - the next large repair will probably cost more than the value of the car. Good luck, whatever you do.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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I have driven it. Nothing strange there. Acceleration is fine but I guess F1 cars must be street legal in NJ.

I'm in NC so the rust issue is not so bad here but I will look in the places I know that cars tend to have trouble. Any specific to this vehicle?
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:16 PM
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Yeah the W203 is mostly a hit or miss in the early years. 01-03. I have seen cars like my 01 with very close to 200,000 miles that have been very reliable and cheap to own and then others who have 20,000 miles who have had every problem imaginable on there car. If it has been maintained well and you like it go for it but with 146,000 miles it is going to start needing expensive parts like suspension and other wear parts. Also how long do you plan to drive it? Honestly with 146,000 miles it is going to need expensive stuff sooner then later and with that many miles it may become a money pit for a car with already high miles.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMarcos
I'm in NC so the rust issue is not so bad here but I will look in the places I know that cars tend to have trouble. Any specific to this vehicle?
Well, the normal wheel wells front and back, around the sunroof, and such. On my car, the undercarriage was pretty rusty and the shop said there was very little treatment of the bare metal at the factory. Also had the bottom of the passenger door redone, and on both sides, the lower metal piece just before the rear wheels needed to be replaced in total.

NJ is like the Fast & Furious without the hot women.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 12:59 AM
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Check to see what kind of radiator it has...

I have an 03 240 4matic sedan and assume mechanically it is the same as the wagon. The only thing you should look at is if it has a Valeo radiator. In my car, which had a valeo radiator and it is very common in 2003s to have them, they eventually leak coolant into your tranny via lines to cool the tranny fluid that go into the radiator and ruin the tranny. If it has a Valeo radiator, be prepared to replace the radiator before you have any problems. Replacing the tranny will cost more than the car is probably worth. Search Valeo radiators and you should get a lot of info about it.

Otherwise my car has been solid for 10 years! I was fortunate enough to get the radiator problem fixed before it caused serious damage.
Marc

Last edited by marcanders; Jun 20, 2013 at 01:01 AM.
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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Thanks!

Good advice, especially about the radiator. I will verify which it is. I may buy the car since it is in fantastic shape, there is one tire wearing slightly irregularly so some toe correction may be in order. I am considering taking it to MB for an inspection and glycol in the tranny test etc.

I am still confused about the service intervals. Does the 03 have an a,b,c,d,e... type service interval? When do you flush the trans, the differential etc?
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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You can get the maintenance and owners manual from http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...enance_manuals
http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...owners_manuals
As for the tranny flush every 39,000 miles is recommended make sure to use approved fluids for everything engine oil, trans oil, rear diff oil ect.
I can't remember what the differential interval is I did mine at 100,000 and plan to do it again in 4,000 miles at 200,000 miles and it has been fine but can't remember what the official interval is I probably should look it up though.
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Talking Thanks Samaritrey

Thing is, after reviewing the service book I find myself still confused. I must be missing something.

I see the regular intervals for oil, filters, even spark plugs and general condition checks but; as far as I can tell there is no recommendation for changing the trans or rear differential fluids etc. I assume this engine was built with a timing chain? I surmise the MB considers these other fluids a will last a lifetime... though being that we live in the real world they will need to be changed at some point.

I must be missing something.

Thanks so far everyone. I enjoy an active enthusiast's board. I also own or have owned Volvos, BMW's (e-30) and in the case of the 325 I also found an enthusiastic community. The Volvos tend to be hit or miss.
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 11:58 PM
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Transmission fluids every 40K miles. spark plugs at 100K miles. I would replace the belts around 120K miles or earlier as well. New battery of course (I replace mine every 4-5 years after the factory has died). Cat converters could go at any time, same for driver's window switch. Have the suspension/bushings checked as well.

I wouldn't buy a Benz or any car with these miles unless I was very sure about the maintenance in previous years.

That said, I love the W203 wagons and the E-class wagons are awesome. If it all checks out, you could have a great car waiting for you (if the price is right).

Last edited by FraKctured; Jun 24, 2013 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 08:35 AM
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I think the transmissions were designed to be sealed for life, hence not needing maintenance, so not in the owners manual. But in the real world, we get them serviced every 40k miles.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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Sadly in the USA the 722.6 transmission was filled for life in the w203. So Mercedes recommends never touching it unless you lose fluid or have the glycol contamination. That said in ROW Mercedes recommends 39k miles. This argument has been going on for years on if you should change your fluid or not even if the car has 100k miles on it already. Obviously I or anyone on here can't make you do something but I would recommend doing a flush every 39k even if you car already has high miles. I did my first change just under 100k and it was only a partial change then did another partial change around 140k I think. Then I did a full flush as I should have done from the beginning at around 170k and have never had a transmission issue besides my Torque converter noise that my car has made since before I ever started messing with transmission and has not gotten better or worse ever. As for the rear Dif there is no Mercedes recommended interval from my quick research on AMG's most seem to recommended 39-50k and on normal W203's most seem to like 39-100k depending on how important you feel it is. Looking back I ordered OEM diff fluid around 170,000 miles and should have done it then but got lazy but my fluid was changed like I said around 100,000.
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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Wink Sam the Man

Sam the Mam wouldn't have been very flattering but yes. You are the man. Thanks for the good words.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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Talking A couple thoughts

1. Steering wheel, plastic portion in the center of the wheel near the buttons is peeling a bit. Interior VERY tan, plastic underneath wheel, black. I don't mind that but I want to be sure the wheel was not replaced. I saw a post about MB painting a wheel for some one, might be that?

2. After extended road test today in the NC heat with windows down and AC not running ( I like the wind in my hair), the LCD display is, hmm, fuzzy. Any units available for less than the ebay asking price? Seems an easy fix.

3. I read both that these cars have a "summer window/sunroof roll-down" function and that it can go sideways. This one won't (roll). Sensor is in door correct? Doors are easy to take apart but high cost sensor?

4. Very impressed thus far. I haven't popped the lid, just been listening and feeling. Very solid, slight oscillation from wheel at moderate speeds, slight inside wear on driver's rear. Awful wheel weights on the outside wheel lip. **** off Discount Tire...

Will be under her hood very soon sniffing about and sticking my fingers in warm spots.


Extended test drives rock.

Thanks so far,

Marcos

oh and the radio seems to be trying to save me and itself, it has a volume limit, heh.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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Chiming in late, but my 04 C240 wagon has been rock solid. I've owned mine from 39K, currently at 96K. Short of routine maintenance, i have had only two problems: an alarm siren go bad-Easy DIY, repalce Valve cover gaskets at ~93K... and that's it.

BTW, I serviced my tranny at ~60K.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMarcos
1. Steering wheel, plastic portion in the center of the wheel near the buttons is peeling a bit. Interior VERY tan, plastic underneath wheel, black. I don't mind that but I want to be sure the wheel was not replaced. I saw a post about MB painting a wheel for some one, might be that?

2. After extended road test today in the NC heat with windows down and AC not running ( I like the wind in my hair), the LCD display is, hmm, fuzzy. Any units available for less than the ebay asking price? Seems an easy fix.

3. I read both that these cars have a "summer window/sunroof roll-down" function and that it can go sideways. This one won't (roll). Sensor is in door correct? Doors are easy to take apart but high cost sensor?

4. Very impressed thus far. I haven't popped the lid, just been listening and feeling. Very solid, slight oscillation from wheel at moderate speeds, slight inside wear on driver's rear. Awful wheel weights on the outside wheel lip. **** off Discount Tire...

Will be under her hood very soon sniffing about and sticking my fingers in warm spots.


Extended test drives rock.

Thanks so far,

Marcos

oh and the radio seems to be trying to save me and itself, it has a volume limit, heh.
Can you get me a pic of the first issue?
The display issue is a pain because you can't just put in a cluster off ebay you would have to take it apart and steal the screen or buy a new one from Italy BTW all the Mercedes ones seem to do this as they get old and it gets hot so buying a used one off ebay is a risk. I am confused by the window issue. so one window won't go down using the feature? does the window work otherwise? it may just need to be synced so hold button two after click and hold till it is all the way down and don't release for a few seconds then hold button up until it is all the way up and hold for a few seconds that should fix it if sync is the issue (not uncommon issue and sometimes needs to be done after battery change) Only issue I would have is the oscillation and tire wear make sure alignment is correct and that tires are balanced properly.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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Sam,

The window issue is that I was under impression that if you held down the unlock button on the key fob while near the car, the windows and sunroof would open. Maybe thsi car doesn't have that feature. You're right about the suspension issue. Car doesn't clunk and tracks nicely, it will be addressed. I will pm you a pic of the wheel later today.

Thanks for the input
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:44 PM
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Oh ok so you see the little black square on the drivers door and possibly the passenger door. You aim the end of the key at that from 1-5 feet depending on how good your sensor is and they should all open. The sensors are known to go bad so if it doesn't work at 1 inch then it is probably bad as long as you know the key is in good shape or you have two to try. Make sure to try the passenger side one to see if that one works (if you car has that one they took it out in later cars) Also sometimes direct sunlight will cause it to not work. If it does not work it is really not worth fixing as it gets very expensive.
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