2005 C240 Left Front Turn Signal on Solid Even With Keys Out
I checked the bulb and even replaced it, and I swapped the whole bulb and socket assembly to the right side to isolate the problem but it only happens on the left. I also checked the wire harness at the connection point with the headlamp assembly.
The mirror signal and rear blink normally on the left despite the rapid clicking sound and rapid green arrow blinking in the instrument panel.
I also tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes with no luck.
Anyone's thoughts would be kindly appreciated.



My initial thoughts are the rapid blinking is caused by a lamp out signal. Any turn indicator that is not drawing current causes this activity on the instrument cluster lamp and the audible indicator. Since you have a good lamp and socket, the usual cause of this indication of a burnt out bulb or disconnected mirror LED means we have a problem with the signal acquisition module or a wiring problem.
The rapid blinking can also be caused by too much current being drawn by a lamp. Sometimes people replace the lamp with one that draws too much current and the causes this indication. Replacing it with the proper part number solves the problem.
In this case I suspect a short to chassis of the wire between the lamp and the SAM. This could cause the lamp to be illuminated all the time, and cause rapid blinking.
I would start by using my eyes to observe the condition of the wiring harness for any abnormality, then wiggle the harness observing if the lamp goes out. Then would be a continuity test with the battery disconnected to determine if any conductors in the harness are connected together, or open from the lamp to their destination. Following that it might be easier to abandon the lamp wires in the harness and replace them with a new wire laced along side the harness.
Last edited by Moviela; Feb 15, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
The front left is the only lamp that stays lit, and both with the car running and while off with the keys out.
I verified the bulb is correct, and just to be sure I borrowed the OEM bulb from the front right and got the same result.
I tried wiggling the wiring harness where it plugs into the lamp assembly but there is no change.
Where is the SAM located, and what is a typical replacement cost? Can I trace the wiring from the lamp to the fuse to check for shorts?
Thanks for the feedback and taking time to help diagnose!



Your problem is not caused by a fuse. There is none for the signal lamps. They are driven by transistors in the SAM. The module is frightfully expensive.
You can follow the wires into the wiring harness, and they will arrive at the front SAM. Here is where a bright lamp and a critical eye can spot where the wires have been chaffed, nicked, cut, melted, harpooned, or dragged over a sharp edge.
In any event, the wiring harness was unplugged and sat in the bumper for two weeks before I put in the new glass and new bulb. I had wrapped the wiring harness in plastic to keep it dry. But this issue didn't start until shortly after removing the assembly a few weeks ago. They're close together and I'd imagine the wiring is near to the left flasher wiring as it runs to the driver side fuse compartment and left side SAM.
Any possibility this could narrow down the flasher problem?
http://www.new-part.com/product/merc...FYEDOgodZQsAAw
I don't fathom having to do this, and I miss the old $5 flasher units. Why they'd consolidate into a device like this where one failure means replacement of a unit that does ten things is beyond me. My opinion of German engineering is hurting today.
2 Repair set, USA version (white bulb socket), one side A203 826 02 82
2 Plug, rubber A000 545 78 80
Last edited by Holmes5518; Feb 19, 2014 at 07:22 PM.
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http://www.new-part.com/product/merc...FYEDOgodZQsAAw
I don't fathom having to do this, and I miss the old $5 flasher units. Why they'd consolidate into a device like this where one failure means replacement of a unit that does ten things is beyond me. My opinion of German engineering is hurting today.
as far as the $5 flasher units, no cars are using those anymore. all the automakers are consolidating everything into modular computer based systems to actually improve reliability and make diagnostics easier (for the dealer) however when there is a problem now they can really make you pay for it.
Russell, what did you mean by "repairing" .. versus replacing? Is there a procedure for repairing?
As a side note, things on my car sometimes stop working, only to work again in the future. Examples: small amber light in the bottom of the rear view mirror, the CD Changer, and the stereo. From time to time all three of these parts will stop working... then start again in a few days, or in one case many months later (CD Changer). Anyone ever had a front SAM just wake up one day?
If you have a SAM issue, a front SAM issue specifically, look into your cowl drains / all drains to ensure they are not clogged or blocked in any way. In this case I will replace the SAM. It won't be the cheapest way to fix this problem, a used SAM on eBay would be better, but it does get to the bottom of not just what the problem is, but WHY the problem occurred in the first place. I haven't found many forums that discuss the WHY, just the WHAT. Hope this helps.
Thanks for everyone's help.




